/sigh

[jbsaxman]

Well, as if things weren't great enough, I think I have a cracked head or a cracked block.

I have no evidence to support this other than the fact that I am using coolant and I do not notice any leaks. I will have to do further investigation. If it's a cracked head, it's not that big of a deal, as I was planning to replace the heads anyways.

Oh well, what can you do?

 

[Dave12]

Is oil level going up? Does oil look like chocolate milk? Any snot like stuff in the CDR that tastes sweet...yep ya gotta taste it and you will taste the sweetness if there is coolant in it.

I went through this. Replaced the heads, turned out to be the block too.

The oil might look okay but don't go by that. Mine didn't start to look really bad until after the heads were replaced and the mechanic ran some ATF through it. I think the ATF really opened up the crack(s) and it got really ugly then.

I went against the advise of just about everyone and tried to go the cheap and quick route and didn't pull the pan or check the block thoroughly and it cost me in the long run.

Dave

 

[jbsaxman]

No, Oil level seems to be normal. I haven't checked the tuna can, either.

Like I said, the only indication is that I seem to be using coolant. I had to add some yesterday after driving about 200 miles, then today after driving another 200 miles.

ECT seems to be normal, though.

 

[Acesneights1]

I have seen GM coolant tabs work miracles in cases like this. Obviuosly not the best way but it can work. Did it to 2 6.2 that were losing coolant. Both stopped and never leaked again.

 

[Dave12]

No, Oil level seems to be normal. I haven't checked the tuna can, either.

Like I said, the only indication is that I seem to be using coolant. I had to add some yesterday after driving about 200 miles, then today after driving another 200 miles.

ECT seems to be normal, though.

Sounds like what mine was doing except the level on mine would go down a little quicker. I used the GM cooling tabs as well as some Bahr's leak and it slowed things but didn't stop it. I think that's why it got worse after the mechanic ran ATF through it. It cleaned up all the stuff that was plugging the cracks and then it started leaking like crazy and the oil got real ugly.

It's a hard one to diagnose just by some of the signs and symptoms. When I first started loosing coolant the oil looked fine but the level was way up. I had an analysis done and it indicated excessive gycol in the oil. I changed the oil and continued to lose coolant but the level wasn't going up and the oil looked good on the dipstick. This is what made the mechanic think it was just the heads and not the block. He said the oil doesn't look like oil from an engine with a cracked block. He was wrong.

Are you going to get an oil analysis done?

Good luck,

Dave

 

[Ratman]

If it were mine....

I'd take the time to do a little test, -it might be worth the peace of mind just knowing what is going on.

I'd pull all the glow plugs (to prevent hydrolock, -and give a visual indicator), -and pressurize the cooling system and wait.

Let it sit for a good hour or two with 15 or so PSI on the system. Make sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is UNPLUGGED, -and have a friend whip the thing over with the starter while you watch for mist out of the glowplug holes. That will at least give you an idea of which side the problem is on. You can also keep a very close eye on the oil level too, -although you may not be able to detect any level increase, -especially if the leak is slow. A trick I often used on some of the gasser stuff I used to work on was to wait overnight, -then very carefully loosen the drainplug, and see if you get any green stuff. Waiting overnight gives the oil and coolant time to separate, -and the coolant always ends up on the bottom, -which does make it easy to drain off!

I know, -other guys like to use the "see which side of the crossover the bubbles come out of" method, -that'd work too I suppose. I personally like to see which hole is seeing the coolant, -not that it really matters much.

If your block is original, -it would be a 599, -and they are not typically known for cracking (on the topside anyway). The bottom is a different story. I seriously doubt you have a cracked block on your hands.

More than likely, -you are probably dealing with a slightly pushed out gasket on either #2 or #7.

The heads? -you have every reason to suspect them.

As far as the oil analysis, -a good idea, -but if the oil level isn't going up, -and it's clean, -it's pretty obvious what's going on there. Hopefully you're still running the green stuff, -'cause Dex tends to make a huge mess of the oil in short order.

At least you'd be able to find out which side it is, -and pick on that side first.

Obviosuly, make dang sure you aren't dealing with something silly like a small coolant leak somewhere (another benefit of doing the static pressure test). It is amazing (especially on a dirty engine), how much coolant can be absorbed by the caked-on goop, -hence, it won't always show up as a leak in the driveway, -and you'll immediately think the worst, -like you're doing right now. Sometimes a hose deteriorates, leaving a clamp loose, -etc.

Start with the easy things first, -then the move on to the hard things.

Those coolant tabs? -They have done miracles for me and many others in the past, but they will not fix a head gasket or cracked cast iron. Sometimes they will buy you some time.

My .02

 

[jbsaxman]

Upon further inspection, it looks like I am losing coolant out of that stupid feed line to the heater core. You know, the one that the geniuses over at GM decided to use a clip to hold it in place.

Don't have the coin to fix it correctly right now, so I will either end up putting coolant in until I can do the mod, or see if I can jerry rig it with some O rings and teflon tape to get it to seal.

Scared to bejesus outta me, though.

Thanks for the input everyone, I appreciate it.

 

[jbsaxman]

As I think I have said in the past, I am planning a rebuild or to build up a new motor anyways, so I just need this one to limp on until I can do so.

I am very meticulous when it come to building things up. You know, the kind of guy that measures 8 times and cuts once, so when I build up a new motor, I will know exactly what is going on with it and won't have to wonder like I did yesterday.

 

[Ratman]

Well, -that is good news.

I would address that thing before it completely lets go.

Simple, -and cheap to fix. This is what I did with mine.



I put a slight flare on the end of the aluminum tube, -just a little, to keep the hose from blowing off. The fitting is made by parker, -available just about anywhere.

I'd address it soon. Those fittings are known to corrode and get "crumbly" and completely fail. That's one of those things that'll leave ya stranded if it fails. Do yourself a huge favor and fix it now. The fitting that you take off IS in fact an orifice, -so a little effort should be made to emulate the original orifice size/length when shopping for your fitting. I personally don't think it matters all that much one way or the other, -but is worth mentioning.

My .02

 

[jbsaxman]

Thanks for the info. I should have just fixed it when I replaced the head gasket, but I was lazy. Oh well. I'll get it fixed within the next week. Right now I pretty much only drive it to work, about 8 miles, where I get another truck to go work.

Do you have the specs on the fitting that you used? And what kind of hose is that?

Thanks a bunch.

 

[Ratman]

Thanks for the info. I should have just fixed it when I replaced the head gasket, but I was lazy. Oh well. I'll get it fixed within the next week. Right now I pretty much only drive it to work, about 8 miles, where I get another truck to go work.

Do you have the specs on the fitting that you used? And what kind of hose is that?

Thanks a bunch.

JB, you want a part number? -Are you kidding me?! :biggrin5:

Oh, I can do better than that! PM me your address/info, -and I'll send one of those fittings your way today no charge!

-What can I say, the 6.5 group has always been "tight".

As for the hose, -nuthin' special there, -just 1/2" heater hose.

Let me know and I'll get it headin' your way.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I double clamped mine on the aluminum tube, been there 4 years now

 

[Ratman]

I double clamped mine on the aluminum tube, been there 4 years now

That would work too.

Hey, WAIT A SECOND!!, -what in the world would you know about 6.5's anyway??!! :biggrin5:

Actually, the double clamp is a better idea than flaring the tube. I found that the aluminum was waaay soft, -and formed a sharp edge, -which wasn't at all what I was looking for. I ended up spending a significant amount of time with my pocketknife hand-dressing the end of the tube, -so it wouldn't cut the hose. In the end, it would have been easier to double clamp it, -but I was out of clamps and TOO LAZY to drive to NAPA!

We can't pull anything over on ya, -can we Tim? :biggrin5:

 

[Turbine Doc]

That would work too.

Hey, WAIT A SECOND!!, -what in the world would you know about 6.5's anyway??!! :biggrin5:

We can't pull anything over on ya, -can we Tim? :biggrin5:

Ya'll do keep me on my toes, I didn't know nuffin about no Diesels when I got started, but am getting better at it; and going to be more better with Diesels in general.

As a FYI I signed acceptance letter yesterday & as of 8/8/08 I'll maybe have to hang up my Turbine Doc, for Locomotive Doc or maybe just plain Loco as I must be crazy to keep playing with 6.5s, I'll be playing with big Diesels and not jets after 27 years. More coins in the pocket and something slightly different than what I've been doing with turbines, for a while possibly more sporadic visits here by me as well

One more trick to add to the clamps: lockwire the screw bodies together so if one starts to slip the other provides resistance to movement.

 

[Ratman]

As a FYI I signed acceptance letter yesterday & as of 8/8/08 I'll maybe have to hang up my Turbine Doc, for Locomotive Doc

Congrats on the new job man!!

Hopefully them locomotives ain't got no PMD's on 'em! :sick:

As far as being loco for being a 6.5 guy, -sorry man, -it's a disease that has no cure to date (except for winning the lottery perhaps)

Ain't nuthin' wrong with "OLD SCHOOL" gettin' the job done.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Congrats on the new job man!!

Hopefully them locomotives ain't got no PMD's on 'em! :sick:

.

That is part of the job; running the program for conversion from mechanical fuel injection to electronic, maybe they read on my resume (hobbies) 6.5s EFI "oh if he can handle PMD troubles, I'll bet he can deal with our issues" good training ground I guess with the 6.5

 

[Ratman]

That is part of the job; running the program for conversion from mechanical fuel injection to electronic, maybe they read on my resume (hobbies) 6.5s EFI "oh if he can handle PMD troubles, I'll bet he can deal with our issues" good training ground I guess with the 6.5

Ohhh geeez, -you're in for it now!!

I can already see the traffic jams caused from stalled locomotives!

If anyone can pull it off Tim, -it's you for sure!

Just think, -you could "one-up" stanadyne and GM by screwing the PMD's to the exhaust pipes! :smilielol5:

Just kiddin' man, -only the true 6.5'ers would find laughter in that "sick" sense of humor!

Sounds like a daunting project, -but I know you're cut out for it and will dig it.

 

[jbsaxman]

Just think, -you could "one-up" stanadyne and GM by screwing the PMD's to the exhaust pipes! :smilielol5:

Now that there's some funny shit!



Thanks for the suggestion on the dual hose clamps, Tim. I was thinking about that today, so it seems I was onto a good thought.