I know this has been talked about several times on this site, but I need help ASAP, as this truck is my only transportation and I was using it everyday to haul steel and make a living. It's a 2000 gmc k3500 dump. A team turbo and diamond eye installed a year ago. Came with SS Diesel relocation kit mounted to the top of the manifold. I spoke with SS about the location and they clam any other spot will ruin the PMD because the fan helps keep the heat sink and PMD cool. So for example if I mounted the PMD behind the bumper it would overheat the pmd at an idle. Since I've owned the truck it would surge and puff black smoke in reverse but wouldn't stall. But once in a while lately its been stalling randomly, at an idle or while driving. I put 2 gallons of highway fuel at the pump, it started stalling almost right away. I made it 1/4 mile stalled, and continued to stall all the way home. Now it starts and almost immediately stalls. I opened the bleeder and there's plenty of fuel w/no air. My fuel sending unit is broken From an accident I had 6 months ago, I was hit on the opposite side truck from where my tank is mounted. Also, I've been having batterie problems. I cleaned and remade new grounds but if I let the truck sit over night the batteries are either low or dead. So is it the PMD, the tank sock/dirty tank? Batteries? I'm not sure where to even start. Need suggestions help.... Thanks!
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Runs but stalls why????
- Thread starter Bostonguy
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Did you test with spare new pmd? You NEED a spare pmd like a spare tire. Verify that is good first, paying attention to connection points for it.
The battery comment is of big concern.
Electrical issue will do all kinds of crazy things to these trucks. Start at the batteries and go from there. Disconnect batteries-clean, test individually, make sure no corrosion in cables& all connections. Next all the grounds- body to engine strap, grounds at rear of heads, then individuals on engine.
You said no air and good fuel-did you open t while idling or only bleed screw on top of ffm? What pressure goin into ip? 1/4" Clear hose coming out of ip to return line? If not put one on there and look for bubbles. This also helps to know fuel flow and clarity for no start problems to see fuel movement.
The battery comment is of big concern.
Electrical issue will do all kinds of crazy things to these trucks. Start at the batteries and go from there. Disconnect batteries-clean, test individually, make sure no corrosion in cables& all connections. Next all the grounds- body to engine strap, grounds at rear of heads, then individuals on engine.
You said no air and good fuel-did you open t while idling or only bleed screw on top of ffm? What pressure goin into ip? 1/4" Clear hose coming out of ip to return line? If not put one on there and look for bubbles. This also helps to know fuel flow and clarity for no start problems to see fuel movement.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Suspect you are looking at a few items and others will narrow in on them shortly.
One place I can add value is that if the batteries are not up to par, the truck gets wonky. When my batteries failed, a jump got it to start and the alternator kept the beast alive (except for one afterglow just after the initial start), but it stumbled quite a bit on the ride home; also the Edge would not come to life (LCD stayed dark).
One place I can add value is that if the batteries are not up to par, the truck gets wonky. When my batteries failed, a jump got it to start and the alternator kept the beast alive (except for one afterglow just after the initial start), but it stumbled quite a bit on the ride home; also the Edge would not come to life (LCD stayed dark).
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
On second thought . . .
If there is an electrical issue, am leaning more toward connections in line with Will's point about corrosion. If the batteries were an issue, they would not have allowed so many back-to-back starts. Naturally, continued torture might change that . . .
If there is an electrical issue, am leaning more toward connections in line with Will's point about corrosion. If the batteries were an issue, they would not have allowed so many back-to-back starts. Naturally, continued torture might change that . . .
I think I found the problem!!!
Hey everyone! Thanks so much for getting back to my post. I had to keep an open mind as i pumped the fuel and it seemed to get worse. Getting to the point, I just came in form trying to fix. It started up and ran fine until it got hot. But it's not what you may think. As I said I have an SS Diesel PMD relocate kit mounted to the aluminum manifold. So as it warms up the heat sink and pmd would vibrate more and more. After it stalled I started probing wires. I touched the wire going into the PMD and heard the fuel solenoid clicking in and out. I pulled the extension wire off and further inspected behind the weather protection and found a freyed wire. Hummmmm maybe? I'm not saying its the problem but it does sound likely. I would further guess that the batterie was going dead because the solenoid was triggered all night. So I need an extension wire and a used PMD. Thanks for all the help guys! I belong to a 1/5 scale rc car forum, you could post a thread everyday and never get help. So I do appreciate it!
Hey everyone! Thanks so much for getting back to my post. I had to keep an open mind as i pumped the fuel and it seemed to get worse. Getting to the point, I just came in form trying to fix. It started up and ran fine until it got hot. But it's not what you may think. As I said I have an SS Diesel PMD relocate kit mounted to the aluminum manifold. So as it warms up the heat sink and pmd would vibrate more and more. After it stalled I started probing wires. I touched the wire going into the PMD and heard the fuel solenoid clicking in and out. I pulled the extension wire off and further inspected behind the weather protection and found a freyed wire. Hummmmm maybe? I'm not saying its the problem but it does sound likely. I would further guess that the batterie was going dead because the solenoid was triggered all night. So I need an extension wire and a used PMD. Thanks for all the help guys! I belong to a 1/5 scale rc car forum, you could post a thread everyday and never get help. So I do appreciate it!
Attachments
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
See leroydiesel.com
Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk 2
You aren't kidding about the batteries! Last winter a swollen batterie caused my tranny to fail. Wow who would ever think a batterie would do such a thing. This truck has served me well. I paid $1000 and drove it home from Rhode Island. It cruised at 70mph all the way. I only replaced the turbo and exsaust for performance. Anyone who looks under the hood or drives in it can't believe its a $1000 truck. The turbo exsaust combo makes all the differance. I installed a new rack body on to the hoist/subframe. I should update my sig because I found out via my build sheet it's an HD 14,000 gvw. So I got a lot of truck for the money. Now if its just the PMD and/or extension wire ill be happy with that. The vibration from the heat sink is so bad I can hear it in the cab. That can't be too good for the PMD, even if its not the wire in the photo the vibration has to be affecting the connection.
I emailed leroy before I asked for help here. I bought my turbo and diamond eye from
Him. And plan on replacing the lift pump, lines, filters everything from the tank forward. Ill likely buy everything from him. But thanks for the heads up!
Him. And plan on replacing the lift pump, lines, filters everything from the tank forward. Ill likely buy everything from him. But thanks for the heads up!
JMJNet
Recruit
One more thing, whatever you heard/learn from SSD, erase it from your mind.
You have got taken by the best salesman in the 6.5L world. LOL!!!
We have done the opposite from what he said for many years with different members in this forum and others and the PMD is still working.
Working longer outside the hood than the one on the intake.
Let's think like God intended us to do.
If the heat can kill a cable like that, imagine what it can do to a PMD which is more delicate than those wires/cables?
You have got taken by the best salesman in the 6.5L world. LOL!!!
We have done the opposite from what he said for many years with different members in this forum and others and the PMD is still working.
Working longer outside the hood than the one on the intake.
Let's think like God intended us to do.
If the heat can kill a cable like that, imagine what it can do to a PMD which is more delicate than those wires/cables?
I agree, the PMD has to be moved SS doesn't know what he's talking about. I knew it them and had i moved it the truck would still be running. The vibration alone is enough to kill the PMD. But anyway, I was looking over a schematic. When I move the harnes going into the PMD, the noise I'm hearing is the fuel shut off solonoid, correct? It sure sounds like an actuator of some kind. I'm going to have to find a better place for the PMD. Even if its in front of the radiator.
JMJNet
Recruit
There are cases of the original IP harness (connecting PMD, IP and Shut off Solenoid) goes bad also due to heat.
Somehow, that has been killing the PMD.
Matuva have a thread on that probably still here a few down from yours.
Here it is:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?40269-Green-dot-flight-system-PMD
Yes, you can place it anywhere outside.
I drill a hole in my bumper since it was not standard.
You can reuse the heatsink and get the cable from Leroy.
Somehow, that has been killing the PMD.
Matuva have a thread on that probably still here a few down from yours.
Here it is:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?40269-Green-dot-flight-system-PMD
Yes, you can place it anywhere outside.
I drill a hole in my bumper since it was not standard.
You can reuse the heatsink and get the cable from Leroy.
The cable in the picture looks to be a chinese cable. The quality of those are not good.
On these trucks an electrical problem can fool you into thinking its a fuel delivery problem and visa-versa.
Mounting the PMD to the intake is just foolish for the reason described in this thread and that it will be heat soaked when engine shut off and the fan is not blowing that cool fresh air on the PMD (yeah right its more like a blast furnace).
Will, good analogy, keeping a PMD like you would a spare tire (can I use that
)
Boston guy, whats the latest?
On these trucks an electrical problem can fool you into thinking its a fuel delivery problem and visa-versa.
Mounting the PMD to the intake is just foolish for the reason described in this thread and that it will be heat soaked when engine shut off and the fan is not blowing that cool fresh air on the PMD (yeah right its more like a blast furnace).
Will, good analogy, keeping a PMD like you would a spare tire (can I use that
)Boston guy, whats the latest?
The latest is, light iron is up to $200 a gross ton. As usual the trucking business is a grind; drivers, break downs, getting paid. If it was easy it wouldn't be called work. As I said no problems with the turbo and exsaust I bought from you. Lots of power. If by the latest you meant the fuel problem? I believe it to be that wire and/or the PMD/PMD connection. In any event I need to buy a used PMD and a longer wire to relocate the heatsink and PMD. Where shall I put it?
hookedup50
Active Member
X2. Buy long pmd cable and bumper relocate from Leroy and never ever listen or buy from SS. The other upgrades on the electrical front are PT Solution battery cables and glow harness. I was amazed by how much faster truck cranks and starts now. We don't have Canada/Alaska cold here in Mass, but the truck cranks better in cold around here than with the Bean counted GM batttery cables. Worth every penny
$500 for a whole truck wow!
I felt like pushing mine into the scrap pile myself. I'm getting a 6ft cable and a couple of those used PMDs from Pensacola fuel injection. I know the cable is bad not sure about the PMD. But might a well buy a couple.
I felt like pushing mine into the scrap pile myself. I'm getting a 6ft cable and a couple of those used PMDs from Pensacola fuel injection. I know the cable is bad not sure about the PMD. But might a well buy a couple.
All my woes were self inflicted, I would be hesitant to by any used electronic devices I only go used if I have no other choice and I'm using a fuel tank made from a 35 Gal chem tank from Tractor Supply that I have bolted to the bed covered with a tool box
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you got it. Stick w/ Leroy. Do take the time to clean those grounds and add the clear fuel line. WELL worth the time.
Where ever you get the cable from make sure its made in USA.