• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

rocker arms

I think it is a broken spring, I can turn the spring with a fare amount of force. The others I can not budge.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you found your "ticking" as if it's loose, then it dosen't have enough pressure to "push" the rocker/push rod back to the lifter thus creating a "click" when it hits.
Click to expand...

I agree with Don 100%. If you don't replace that spring the next noise you hear may be a very expensive noise. I HATE expensive noises!!!
 
Ok trying to see how that spring comes off...I know it is just like the rocker assy. (simple) but I still don't see it.

P.S. Would the spring really be broken or just weak or cracked. Mabye I need glasses but I don't see anything jumping out at me.
 
STOP!

Don't remove the spring without compressing the cylinder with air to keep the valve from dropping. That would make for a bad day.
 
The spring could be broken and you wouldn't see it. You would definitely feel it though as it would be a lot softer than the other springs. Since I have yet to tear into a 6.5 valve train, I am going to base this next bit on other motors. If I am inaccurate in my descriptions, someone will chime in and correct me.

The retainer is the solid metal disc about 1.25" in diameter on top of the spring. Once you compress the cylinder with air to hold the valve in place, you can compress the spring, the disc should drop and 2 keepers that look like wedges should come out. These wedges in conjunction with the disc retain the spring on the valve. It sounds confusing but once you get them off, it makes perfect sense.
 
Hmmm it is not allot softer, Actually I can not tell any difference between it and the others when pushing straight down.
 
You should not be able to push down on it at all. Not unless you can bench press 400 lbs. with your thumbs. They are stiff.
 
Hmm I thought I had it figured out that it was a broken spring, now I am not so sure. Found another spring that twists as well. They don't twist easily it takes some effort.
 
I don't think that twisting means anything. Every broken valve spring that I have had, I was able to open the valve with finger pressure. At this point I don't think you have a broken valve spring. What was the outcome of the rocker arms and the nylon buttons?
 
By using all the force I can get on it I can budge all of them but only enough to barley know that I budged them. The rocker arms appear to be good. One of the nylon buttons was worn more than the others. All eight for that side are ordered but are not supposed to get here before Wednesday:mad2:. I'll put the rocker arm back on and check the lifters tomarrow. Thanks for the help, any tips or suggestions are allways welcome.
 
Being able to twist it isn't really hard evidence, you'll have to closely look at it and see if a portion is broken or cracked. DO NOT attempt to remove it without air pressure in the cylinder, maybe 100lbs or more. Last time i removed a spring on the engine i used a compression tester i screwed into the glow plug or injector hole. Applied the air there, the engine may turn over a little from the air pressing the piston down at that point you don't really know were the piston is in travel. I've seen some broken springs that were broken near the end of the spring, and just pressing on it you couldn't tell a lot of difference between it and the good ones. The way they come off is, use a valve spring compressor (after you get compressed air in the cylinder), then there are a couple small keepers (half-round things) that go between the retainer (silver dollar metal circle with a hole in the center) and have a grove in them that press against the valve stem. THe pressure from the spring keeps them in there. I used to drag-race a lot and i've broken a lot of springs, most times it's obvious but not always. Good luck, keep looking and keep us posted.
Don
 
It's an interference engine - Can't you just put that cyl at tdc and remove the spring? Seems like the valve can't go anywhere.
 
You should be able to very slightly open the valve with strong hand pressure, the seated valve spring pressure is slightly over 100 ft-lbs on a 6.5.

Even if you have the engine at TDC you will still need a tool to compress the spring and remove the keepers. I use air pressure, it absolutely makes sure the valve stays still and as high as possible in the head while working on the valve springs. Using the TDC method will work but it can easily make the job more difficult by losing some of the valve stem height and allowing the valve to turn and move while trying to work on the assembly.
 
Is there any way to make sure it is broken. It seems that if I get a really good grip on any of the springs they will turn, then the oil will lubricate it and they will turn as easily as the front one (it still takes lots of force).
 
There are spring pressure checking tools that allow testing while the spring is on the head. They are mostly used by racers but the tools can often be used or easily adapted to use on most other pushrod type engines. If you have a buddy that races or a machine shop that you are in very good terms with you might be able to borrow one. They are not really cheap to buy in most cases. 99% of the time a broken or fatigued spring will show up on with one of these testers. They work like a combination of a torque wrench and prybar. You simply watch the meter to see how much torque it takes to open the valve and compare it to the rest.
 
Well I replaced the retainer clips and retightend the bolts. Due to lack of tools I did not check the spring. And am kicking myself for not rolling the push rods on glass. (Evidentally being thorough is something I had to learn the hard way)

Anyway I am preparing to take it apart again :sad: but first I had a question.

I replaced the timeing chain and have not yet been able to do the TDC relearn. Can this cause a knocking sound? The sound appeared before the new chain, but mabye the chain stretched too mutch????

THANKS for all the help!!
 
Any tips on attaching a sound clip? The smallest I can get the zip file is 619 kb and the limit is 97.7 kb. :mad2: :mad2: :mad2:
 
These are short but the best I can do.
 

Attachments

  • VORC001.zip
    93.3 KB · Views: 17
  • VORC006.zip
    94.4 KB · Views: 12
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top