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Removing quick coupler from thermostat housing

hookedup50

hookedup50

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I'm trying to remove the whole thing to install a new non leaky one. The last time it was leaking I ended up taking the locking part out of another one cause I could'nt get it off. I hate red thread lock. Is heat an option?
 
The powdered metal part usually comes out in pieces. Good luck! We usually use a 3/4 hose barb to replace the factory leak mess o ring connector.
 
I gently used a hacksaw blade and hammer and chisel to weaken it and spin it out. Ended up coming out in a few big chunks.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
DO NOT REPLACE WITH THE SAME TYPE OF QUICK CONNECT.

Get a 1/4" NPT to 3/4" Barb. Then replace the whole "rubber - metal - rubber 5/8" with 3/4" heater/coolant hose all the way.
At least, that is what I did. If you can get a 1" wire loom, you can wrap it around the hose.

The quick disconnect have to be replaced every 2 years.
 
As far as taking it out, you have to take off the quick connect side.

Then use a socket to move it slow and steady.

Using a box or adjustable wrench will snap and broke it.
 
Sorry I'm posting to late hookedup50 but maybe this will help dieselcash or others. After about 20 of these I figured the trick.

Take out the lock and seal w/ pick. Use a super torch (butane soldering iron). Start w/ open flame at about half power heating top in circular motion around top of fitting for about 10 - 15 seconds then full power shooting flame into base of fitting 2 or 3 passes. Kill the torch and quickly remove fitting. The thing is to do it before the heat has time to transfer into the manifold. A few times I didn't get it to come out the first time. Let it all cool down and try a second time. Only 2 times this didn't work for me, probably done over 200 between diesel and gas engines.

At 1 fleet we replaced them before the truck saw service, at 100 miles or less it just screws out like a deam.
 
JMJNet said:
DO NOT REPLACE WITH THE SAME TYPE OF QUICK CONNECT.

Get a 1/4" NPT to 3/4" Barb. Then replace the whole "rubber - metal - rubber 5/8" with 3/4" heater/coolant hose all the way.
At least, that is what I did. If you can get a 1" wire loom, you can wrap it around the hose.

The quick disconnect have to be replaced every 2 years.
Click to expand...
It ain't that bad.
 
bison said:
It ain't that bad.
Click to expand...

Mine was.

May that was just me. The plastic part seems to fail, not the metal part. Wonder why, may be it is TX.
We do get 100 -120 F in the summer sometimes, well, most of the time.
Which probably does not happen that often in Alberta or Alaska.
Plastic just does not last too long here.

I replaced mine with one from Napa before I know about this.
It is still there when I replace it with the proper part, comes from old 80s GM truck as stated above (npt to barb).

The direction was in the other forum. IIRC, it came from TurboTahoe's thread.

It was not that bad in terms of replacing it.
 
I got it off today. I tried using a BF wrench while cold just to make sure I wasn't having a weak moment a year ago. It wouldn't budge, but if I gave it any more torque The Housing was gonna break. So with a mapp gas torch in one hand and my infrared portable thermometer in the other I heated the alumimum to 195 degrees and quickly got the wrench on there and tapped it gently and it came right off.
 
Here is a good thread on the coupler replacement.

Here is the one they recommend;
Heater hose parts.jpg

Here the part is $6.77.
 
When I worked at a fuel/oil mfr. & supply co. We were test monkeys for different fuels, oils, and occasionally vehical mfrs.
Lucky me gm was one for a few years while I was there. (250,000-350,000 miles yearly on lots-o-trucks).

When a couple of the engineers showed up one day I asked that question, along with the gasser fuel pump chaos.
Assembly time on the plant line is the official answer for the fitting.
Lack of fuel filter changes is fuel pump cause btw.
He pronounced it is "not" engineered issues for return to dealership repairs. Same for the window regulators. Same as introduction of Torx drive fasteners, (or triple square drive fasters via vw). You get the idea.

Before you ask no the PMD engineering was outsourced and they really don't know a fix. A good friend of mine was one of the electrical engineers at gm.
 
dka99burb said:
I wish I knew about that one. I used a brass barb from the hardware store. It works just fine though.
Click to expand...

It does not matter how it looks like. The most important thing is that you get rid of the quick connect. LOL!!!

IIRC, Tim aka TD was one of the person who suggested this replacement.
 
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