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Remote Control Door Lock Receiver

Big T

Big T

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I am trying to locate the remote control door lock receiver on my 1999 K2500. I need to due a voltage test on the “F” pin:

IMG_9611.jpeg

Some internet materials suggest the receiver is located under the dash on the right hand side of the steering column. I pulled two separate plugs there and they are not it. Other internet material suggests it’s behind the stereo. I’m asking the experts here where the hell is it?

I replaced the door lock actuator on the rear barn door because it stopped working. It was pretty rusted. The new one tested fine on direct voltage, but I get nothing once it’s installed. The GM manual has step by step tests which lead me to a vintage rest at the receiver, but I can’t find the receiver. All other doors work using the remote. Interior lights do not work using the remote.
IMG_9610.jpeg
 
Right side of steering column under dash, I see nothing on left side of depicted bracket:

IMG_9622.jpeg

Right side of that bracket, I see two plugs, neither of which look like the one in the picture. The first pic is the plug to a metal box attached to the bracket. Second is the plug to a plastic box attached to the bracket. Neither plugs are even close to what is shown in the pic.

IMG_9621.jpeg

IMG_9620.jpeg
 
has it ever in a previous ownership had any audio or alarm installed or removed? does the drivers door button or rear button actuate the rear door actuator? GM's wiring is funny. if there is a issue at ether switch that can cause it not to function. other than that, I would probe a test light to both leads and see if you get anything with the actuator disconnected. it might be a severed wire at the door hinge or bad ground back there.
 
dbrannon79 said:
has it ever in a previous ownership had any audio or alarm installed or removed? does the drivers door button or rear button actuate the rear door actuator? GM's wiring is funny. if there is a issue at ether switch that can cause it not to function. other than that, I would probe a test light to both leads and see if you get anything with the actuator disconnected. it might be a severed wire at the door hinge or bad ground back there.
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No alarm installed or removed during my ownership and the rear actuator worked until recently.

Already probed the leads and contact buttons, no voltage. Took Emory cloth to the contact buttons at the door. Tested it with door closed (thus connecting the contact buttons) and nothing.

Manual says to test for voltage at the F pin of the receiver connector. Should be 12 volts there. If none, then there is an open circuit on ORN 540.
 
If I understood the layout on the page you posted, the box your looking for is on the inside of the steel where the silver box in the pic above is on the outside. I don't think you can see or get at it with the column in place. it's buried way up in there!
 
That metal box is the speaker amp.
The receiver is a black plastic box on the other side of the metal bracket that the amp is mounted to.
The photo I posted with an arrow is one of your photos. 3rd photo post #4.
It's there or your keyless would not work.
First of all, if the other door locks work then there is nothing to check under the dash.
The first place there could be a problem is a connector behind the drivers side kick panel. The 2 wires that activate the cargo door lock motor are on that 8 pin black connector. Check voltage across pins “A” & “B” when the locks are activated. You should get 12v. that reverses polarity when going from open to close. Both “A” & “B” should be grounds when locks are not activated. “A” is a TAN wire & is unlock signal,
“B” is a GRY wire & is lock signal. The next place those 2 wires connect is to the cargo door jamb contactors.

C302.jpg
 
Glagulator said:
That metal box is the speaker amp.
The receiver is a black plastic box on the other side of the metal bracket that the amp is mounted to.
The photo I posted with an arrow is one of your photos. 3rd photo post #4.
It's there or your keyless would not work.
First of all, if the other door locks work then there is nothing to check under the dash.
The first place there could be a problem is a connector behind the drivers side kick panel. The 2 wires that activate the cargo door lock motor are on that 8 pin black connector. Check voltage across pins “A” & “B” when the locks are activated. You should get 12v. that reverses polarity when going from open to close. Both “A” & “B” should be grounds when locks are not activated. “A” is a TAN wire & is unlock signal,
“B” is a GRY wire & is lock signal. The next place those 2 wires connect is to the cargo door jamb contactors.

View attachment 95294
Click to expand...
Thank you. I have some recreational detour (river clean up and fishing) today and will get back at the truck electrical tomorrow.
 
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