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Rebuilding injectors

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Location
alaska
So I'm finally getting around to getting set up to rebuild injectors. Still trying to come up with a good source for shims,but I can make my own thin ones now.
So far it appears that an .005 shim raises the pressure approximately 300 PSI, which is about what I want to be above the stock pressure.IMG_20170227_112706.jpg
 
I tried the Hoppes but it's a little thicker than I like and seems to leave a residue of oil. I also tried some carb cleaner and it seemed to work about the same but without the residue.
 
^After a soak overnight, rinse off your parts in hot water. Usually don't need any elbow grease. Stuff is pretty aggressive when new so may not need an overnight soak. It'll eat the plating off stuff if you forget it.
 
Spent most of the day making shims. But I did get 3 injectors done. Worst one I had to stack 4 shims,3 -.005 and 1 -.002. the other 2 where good with 1- .005. Not sure why that one took so much more.
 
I think I'll mark that one and put it at an easy to get to location so I can pull it after awhile and see if it changes.
 
I'm not really too concerned but I have read elsewhere that some say you shouldn't stack shims, so I'd like to find out if there are any issues in doing so.
 
Where AK Driver is at, there is no bio diesel. But for future readers wanting to rebuild their injectors:

No red metals such as brass,bronze, or copper with biodiesel, methonal or ethonal. It causes metal corrosion, and contamination of the fuel.

In the injectors would be particularly bad.
Steel, stainless steel are your go to metals.

I have friends and cousins living in different parts of AK where they do have it, so not a "pass" for all of AK.
 
Any parts in contact with fuel. Other
metals like aluminum just corrode a bit, but red metals have some crazy reactions depending on fuel.

Magic answer is steel wins.
 
Hahaha! Down to the bottom left. Something about a panhandle. Cant remember names of the towns right now.
 
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