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Rebuilding a 141

matuva

matuva

Tropical 6.5er
Messages
1,996
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Location
New Caledonia. An island in south west pacific, cl
Well, I finally made my decision:

Rather than guessing what is causing my oil consumption throughthis massive oil leak through the turbo (stem seals, broken ring, yada yada....) I choose to rebuild an engine.

My fater in law (and mechanic) is offering me a used 141. This engine was running good, but a :tapedshut: guy found funny to poor some sand in the oil filler. Wonder why we get so much play in the cranck while rotating it....

So, I will:
  • replace cranck
  • replace all rod, main, cam bearings
  • replace all rings
  • replace all seals on valves, especially the postive stem ones
  • of course all gaskets
  • new timing set

Will dress it yellow cat with black intake and T-stat housing.

Anything else I should think about the rebuild process?
 
ARP head studs are a no brainer while it's apart. I am sure you already knew that, but it wasn't on your list :)
 
OK, I was expecting the cermet (from Xado brand) to reduce oil consumption. It seems it has reduced a bit, but not as much as I thought... May be it will, as I have to wait about 5 000 kilometers for the product to settle and cure... We will see.

Just in case, I bought a 599 short block core : 599 short block.jpg

I could not check the short block as it is in Texas, which is a bit far from New Caledonia, but the seller sware there are no cracks in the mains and apparentely no in the cylinder walls.

Time to arrange sea freight, it should be deliverd in 2~3 months, so the game will begin.

AK, any idea from where to find these gapless rings? The block is still standard factory bore. Should I hone the cylinders or just replace rings and bearings?

Is an HO oil pump worth it?
 
WW has already bought some he could tell you. and yes you should at least freshen up the cross hatch to get the rings to seat right
 
With a non oil squirter block you probably don't need the HO oil pump IMO.
 
because of money ;)

I would have loved to get a full rebuilt "drop-in" engine based on this 599, but wallet is a bit tight at the moment, and things won't grow better unfortunately. I have to make choices.
1st this block, as the opportunity was offered, now I will hunt for heads, then start buying rings, waterpum, oil pump, etc...

Then once everything is here, I will do it myself. Hope this block is really fine, and so I don't need to get it machined :boggled:

The block won't be delivered before 2 months by sea freight, so I get a few time...
 
2 rings 1/16ths of an inch thick (top and second)
1 ring 3/16ths of an inch thick (oil ring)

The top ring is a keystone ring in the 6.2/5. It's shaped funny on it's cross section.

You'll only be able to do gapless on the 2nd compression ring. It's metric not inch.
 
matuva said:
Thanks 3500GMC, will send them these info so they can tell me what they got.

Any idea of the bore dimension?

About rings, and if not the gapless ones, which brand would you prefer?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't order a single part until you see how your block is going to shape up.

6.5 stock bore is 103mm (4.06inch) First oversize is .25mm if you need to bore the block. I would start with a new 'round' bore, new rings in old egg shaped bores take forever to seat in. Piston slap/wear unseats the ringset on top of that. Blowby out the gazoo...

Top ring is keystone cross section kinda like this, /_\ 3mm thickness Big side, bottom in illustration, toward the piston wall.
Second ring is 2mm thick.
Oil ring is 4mm thick two piece design.

Brand? I like Speed Pro but I'm not sure if they do 6.5 diesel stuff- so probably Perfect Circle would be a good candidate.
 
I would Definatly re ring it with a hone. I rebuild a 141 and have had no problems yet got 25,000 on it now and driven hard
 
I would definitely install new 'freeze plugs' in the block. Brass is usually more money and will corrode eventually just like the zinc plated steel ones. So, at least get some kinda new plugs in there.

They corrode from the inside out. You don't know their condition 'til it's too late. Replace 'em while the engine is OUT. You do not want to have one fail 'engine in'.. :mad2:

I prefer to use #1 permatex to seal the new ones in.
 
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