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Raptor Liner project: 1994 Suburban K2500

Tinker

Tinker

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Lavonia, Georgia
This Suburban was my family vehicle and then my farm truck and then it sat after the IP failed 2 years ago. When I decided to get it running again, I vowed it wouldn't become a hobby vehicle. But I caved.

Now it's slated to be the adventure truck to get me and my kids up into the mountains more often.

I had to deal with the standard flaking GM White. Wanting to keep the budget low, I opted for DIY full coverage with tintable Raptor Liner and I'm pretty pleased with the results. We decided on a shade that's pretty close to the old (and new) Ford Grabber Lime. Hardly perfect, but it was an easy process and is forgiving stuff for me and a couple of teen boys with no bodywork experience between us. I can't say much on durability yet but, with adequate prep work, it has gripped well and coverage is decent. Definitely a good 10 footer.

Before:After:
IMG_20201023_161736[1].jpgIMG_20201129_114146[1].jpg

I still have some touch up work to do where coverage was a bit thin and some trim and hub painting to do. Next the plan is for a set of black Chevy steel 16s - or maybe HMMWV 16.5s - with MTs in the 32-33 range.
 
The hmmwv 16.5s are listed 37 (sometimes 36) X 12.50 x 16.5. Real height for the MT is 1” shorter than listed so the 36 will give you 35” of tire. DO NOT run them without the runflats. So many flipped hmmwvs, pickups and jeeps from it. The sidewall is so soft it dips out and if it’s a front tire you are changing lanes -usually 2- without wanting to. Many people were making the beadlocks from pvc pipe which is creative but doesn’t solve the roll over problem.

Those 16.5 tires used to be dime a dozen- no more. I suggest getting 17,18 etc.

do some close up pics if you would of the paint- since the 10footer rule is in effect and you seem about 20’ away. No hatin’ just wondering.
 
Good to know. I was looking around at 16.5 tires in something like 255/85 or similar. Will "standard" 16.5s not fit the HMMWV rims? I don't think 35s will fit under my wells without rub.

Ha! Good point. I'll take some closer shots to show texture, coverage, etc. and will post along with some lessons learned.
 
Detail pictures as requested:

IMG_20201217_180629[1].jpgIMG_20201217_180637[1].jpgIMG_20201217_180654[1].jpg

Some things I like about the Raptor product:
  • Covers over a multitude of sins with no wet sanding necessary
  • Long working time (~60min from when you add the hardener)
  • Prep is straightforward and filling is not required (though certainly can be done)
  • No high-dollar equipment necessary, just a decent compressor (see below) and a Schutt gun
  • All mixing is done in the bottle
Some lessons learned:
  • Make sure your compressor can hit the desired working pressure BEFORE you start spraying (probably common sense to most of you). My texture is more coarse than I wanted because I could only maintain 50-55 psi with my compressor
  • Next time, I will use 10% urethane reducer in the first coat to ensure good spread/coverage, and then I'll lay on the texture
  • I'm regretting that I taped the weather stripping instead of removing it
  • It's important to pull the tape within an hour of last coat
  • Good lighting is needed to ensure you've hit all the necessary spots, especially with a low contrast color
  • Spending more for good tape is worth the cost...
 
The hmmwv rims are wide so the 12.5” wide tires fit right. So no, normal 16.5 tires will not work. The 16.5 bead angle is different on purpose so that normal 16” or 17” tires pop off instead of seating. This also means if they aren’t bead lock the correct tires debead easier too. They have a nasty offset, so most people have to cut out and reweld the wheel disk to get a useable offset. Honestly, as much as I like them on my hummer- I wish I could afford different rims for it. Mine is the 37” with 2 piece steels and the lighter 2 piece runflats. They weigh 160 lbs each- that isn’t a typo.
 
Wow. Well, those are off the table, then. Sounds like it'll be stock steel 16s for this truck. Too bad, 'cause I love the flat face and high offset look. But I'm not spending $200 a wheel for the similar commercial designs.
 
Another tire option, is the 255-100-16 aka: 16"-9" which are 36.08" dia. +- a little narrow enough to fit into the wheel well w/little or no issue.
Speed ratings vary from 62 to 67 MPH...

The 295-75-16" come in 10 ply w/3 ply sidewalls and have a capacity of 3,970 lbs but trimming the rear fender edge is a must, good to 106 MPH.

As there was no mention about UV protection which is the most common damaging effect on almost everything. "UV inhibitor" additive is a must for anything exposed to UV otherwise in a few years its shot. DuraBak is about the only product I know of that can be had w/MIL-SPEC UV inhibitors. This is what I am using on my Burb body work in the near future, already did the interior in light grey outside will remain black.
 
@FellowTraveler Interesting. I measured my wells and I was skeptical that anything bigger than 33 could fit. Tall and narrow is what I'm after but I figured I'd be limited to 255/85. So you've got narrow 36s on a leveled-but-not-lifted body?

FellowTraveler said:
DuraBak is about the only product I know of that can be had w/MIL-SPEC UV inhibitors. This is what I am using on my Burb body work in the near future, already did the interior in light grey outside will remain black.
Click to expand...

Did you paint the floor only or did you pull the panels/headliner and pain the whole interior?

BTW, is that a Gazelle in your profile pic?
 
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Tinker said:
@FellowTraveler Interesting. I measured my wells and I was skeptical that anything bigger than 33 could fit. Tall and narrow is what I'm after but I figured I'd be limited to 255/85. So you've got narrow 36s on a leveled-but-not-lifted body?

Did you paint the floor only or did you pull the panels/headliner and pain the whole interior?

BTW, is that a Gazelle in your profile pic?
Click to expand...
It depends on exactly what t-bars you have, mine are 8.760k and alignment. Best to measure from center of axle, then subtract the number when measuring from CV joint diameter (half of the CV joint diameter would be center) and around wheel well. Turning is why there is a need to trim lower trailing edge if outer and inner of fender and wheel well.

Did just the floors and a little up the posts so its easy to drain water ingress.

Nope, it is a Messershmitt 105 twin turbine the first helo to fly inverted...
 
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