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Questions about replacing head gaskets

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Cooling system began to pressurize and as a result my surge tank has been letting go of it's contents. I've been doing a lot of reading before diving in and it seems like the general consensus is to use Fel-Pro head gaskets. I have some brand new Victor Reinz head gaskets and was wondering what the good folks here say about them. I'd really hate to redo the job because of a bad part and would rather get it done on the first shot. Thanks everyone!
 
Pull the T-stat crossover off. Remove fan belt. Start engine. See what side bubbles. It may take a min or two for the bubbles to show. Do not over heat the engine.

Pay close attention to the side that bubbles. Suspect head cracks in addition to possible head gasket issue. Replace TTY head bolts as standard practice and note they can be the cause of a gasket failure by stretching.
 
Thanks WarWagon! That's exactly what,I was going to do but was going to leave the belt on I thint I understand why I should take the belt off.... keep the coolant from being pushed out by the water pump right? I'll take your advice and keep my fingers crossed for at the most cracked heads... as long as the block isn't cracked, I'll be happy. Hopefully it's just the gasket though.
 
If torque to yield bolts have a problem with stretching, would it be wise to use ARP head studs? Would it even be possible without removing the motor on a 94 K2500 pickup?

FellowTraveler, regular TTY head bolts already come with sealant on the threads right? Not sure about the heads studs though since I've never messed with them.
 
If torque to yield bolts have a problem with stretching, would it be wise to use ARP head studs? Would it even be possible without removing the motor on a 94 K2500 pickup?

FellowTraveler, regular TTY head bolts already come with sealant on the threads right? Not sure about the heads studs though since I've never messed with them.

They are simply a weaker link that can show up with high miles, high performance, or rare events that cause higher cyl pressure. Never re-use them. For the record ARP's are NOT required for this engine. (They are a improvement.) The above TTY bolt stretch is simply one possible cause of head gasket failure.
 
Since I replaced the stock turbo for an A-team turbo about a year and a half ago, would the regular TTY bolts be fine or should I look into upgrading?
 
The ATT has less back pressure, so you would be fine. I'm many are using them with the ATT.
 
If torque to yield bolts have a problem with stretching, would it be wise to use ARP head studs? Would it even be possible without removing the motor on a 94 K2500 pickup?

FellowTraveler, regular TTY head bolts already come with sealant on the threads right? Not sure about the heads studs though since I've never messed with them.
TTY do studs no.
 
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