I've got a '99 Chevy 3500 6.5 turbodiesel. Is there a problem with installing the pyrometer probe on the driver's side exhaust manifold (using the drill and tap variety)? That part of the engine compartment is less "cramped" than the passenger side. If this is an acceptable area, where on the exhaust manifold would be the best place to drill and tap?
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Pyrometers probe placement
- Thread starter Tovar
- Start date
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The probe needs to be close to the turbine intake before turbocharger or in down pipe close to the turbine after turbocharger. The before reading generally reads 200 deg f more than after.
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I had one installed in the d/s mannie in the bend, where you are looking, I think it was fine their and it was convenient also..
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, thats where you have to put it in hummers and vans with the center mount turbo.
What I do is start the engine and let it idle while drilling the hole. That way the exhaust blows out the shavings instead of dumping them in the turbo. Then when (if) you tap threads in, use a lot of cutting oil and the fine shavings will stick to the tap. Remember to do 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn back to not break tap. Every 2 full rotations I like to remove, clean, reoil tap.
As for the "exact temp" things should be, it will change based on many variables. Just learn where "normal" is when not loading the engin heavy. You will start seeing a correlation between an egt range and coolant temps when pulling hills or towing. Then you know where to back out of it.
What I do is start the engine and let it idle while drilling the hole. That way the exhaust blows out the shavings instead of dumping them in the turbo. Then when (if) you tap threads in, use a lot of cutting oil and the fine shavings will stick to the tap. Remember to do 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn back to not break tap. Every 2 full rotations I like to remove, clean, reoil tap.
As for the "exact temp" things should be, it will change based on many variables. Just learn where "normal" is when not loading the engin heavy. You will start seeing a correlation between an egt range and coolant temps when pulling hills or towing. Then you know where to back out of it.
IMO on a truck put it in PS manifold. If in DS and you develop a problem on PS you won't know it. EX: bad injector?
At least you got a shot at seeing a problem.
At least you got a shot at seeing a problem.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Valid point Leroy. Is there a good spot just below the turbo for it?
NVW
Well-Known Member
There is a small raised flat spot on the PS manifold a couple inches below the turbo flange
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
You can also go 90° around from that flat spot to the front of the pedestal and drill and tap for the pyrometer probe there for easier access than through the wheel well for the square pad on the side of the pedestal.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Of course, the easiest way to do it is with the passenger side exhaust manifold off the vehicle and sitting on your bench!
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
McMaster-Carr 2896A629 $4.37ea
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
http://www.mcmaster.com Just copy and past to your browser. We use them a bit for harder to find industrial supplies.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Harbor Freight in their master drill bit set has both letter and number series bits as well as 1/64" increment from 1/64 through 5/8" all in cobalt.
If you have a real hardware store near you they should have the correct letter bits for both 1/8" and 1/4" pipe taps (usually as a drill bit and tap set for that size). Try Ace or Truevalue (they carry them at my neighborhood Truevalue) or your local mom and pop hardware store.
If you have a real hardware store near you they should have the correct letter bits for both 1/8" and 1/4" pipe taps (usually as a drill bit and tap set for that size). Try Ace or Truevalue (they carry them at my neighborhood Truevalue) or your local mom and pop hardware store.
Got them. It all seems to boil down to who you get waiting on you. I got the bits from a store that told me they didn't have them. Came back another day spoke to another individual, and bang, handed them right to me. So, now I can do the job.
handcannon
Well-Known Member
This post is probably too late for the OP, but might help out others in the future.
There is a flat spot on the PS exhaust manifold that can be accessed from the top side without having to pull the inner fender. When I drilled my manifold I did almost what Will said. The big difference was that I started drilling before starting the motor. When I thought that I was at least halfway through I started the motor. And yes, the exhaust blew the chips out of the manifold. One thing I did in addition was to add a bit of grease to the drill bit tip just before finishing the drilling, to help keep any metal fragments from being lost inside the manifold. I tapped the hole using grease added to the tap also, and did like Will also.
Don
There is a flat spot on the PS exhaust manifold that can be accessed from the top side without having to pull the inner fender. When I drilled my manifold I did almost what Will said. The big difference was that I started drilling before starting the motor. When I thought that I was at least halfway through I started the motor. And yes, the exhaust blew the chips out of the manifold. One thing I did in addition was to add a bit of grease to the drill bit tip just before finishing the drilling, to help keep any metal fragments from being lost inside the manifold. I tapped the hole using grease added to the tap also, and did like Will also.
Don