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Pyrometer probe installation "screw-up"

You're fine anywhere you put it IMO. What you are watching is an average EGT temp. When your working it hard and its climbing into dangerous territories, the idea is to back-off/shift/change the way your driving/slow down or stop before you are running into the 1100-1200's Pre-Turbo area.

Even if one spot shows 100df difference, it will tell you what you want to know, and that's to either slow down, or keep on truckin.

Some like the turbo collector spot because it contains gasses from both sides of the engine. Where as the x-over is probably a 'fresher' spot.

Closer to turbo better for cooldown purpsoses, (shutting down truck after turbo is to a certain temp), but it's all relative, you'll get use to your spot.

I'd plug your miss and re-tap in teh boss @ turbo collector or wherever you want it and call it a day, if that's even what were talking about, i'm on a rant...
 
The autometer pyrometers come with a hose clamp with a hole in it for clamping the probe to exhaust tubing. I've used them before and they work just fine.
 
matuva said:
I have mine in the X-over.
I drilled the X-over while engine was idling.

I used a band clamp on wich I weld the NPT fitting and screw the probe in it.
easy setup...
Click to expand...

You drilled it while it was idling? :eek: No damage?

And yes there is enough meat to thread a probe in there. :thumbsup:
 
Matt Bachand said:
good way to do Exhaust guage drill/tap.. blows pieces out as pressure releases.

Do not do this on your intake tap for boost guage however :)
Click to expand...

X2, please also wear eye protection, tho not a lot of exh flow at idle, just enough for it to blow a sliver into the MK1 optical sensors that have a penchant for accumilating debris just when you thought you'd be okay. :nono: :mad2:
 
Plugged the hole and relocated the probe to the crossover on the drivers side, a couple of inches from the manifold. Got rid of the adapter and the extension of the wires. It jumped at least 200 deg and more like 300 in the upper part of the scale, but I don't know if the adapter had anything to do with that or if the entire increase is because of the new location is a hotter spot.

Damn, that pyro is interesting (and scary) to watch :eek: Should probably refine my driving habits..
 
The lead on the pyro have to be the length they were sent from the factory. The system is calibrated to work as shipped. Changing the length of the lead will affect reading.
 
Ya, extensions might not be a great idea. Thanks for sharing that here, about the temp difference.

Regardless, the needle sure can climb fast under load eh? A very good reason to insist someone setup a pyro. gauge before they start moving more fuel.
 
Non Typical said:
Ya, extensions might not be a great idea. Thanks for sharing that here, about the temp difference.

Regardless, the needle sure can climb fast under load eh? A very good reason to insist someone setup a pyro. gauge before they start moving more fuel.
Click to expand...

Or before towing anything of weight. Factory rig, all choked up with kitties and bent downpipes, and poor air filter designs,...
 
Yea, it would be a good addition for towing, but not necessary in stock form. From a completely stock point, the IP won't provide enough to melt the turbo. Talked with lots of guys who have towed large loads, and have not needed to worry about temp.

I was told, you don't need a pyro, just watch your temp. gauge. Yea, right. Which would explain why when towing 10K through the mountains, I have to back off the throttle as my EGT's close in on 1200 while my engine temps are still very safe.

Before I tuned up the truck, never needed the gauge, as the available fuel wasn't enough to worry about. Even now, I can scream around town as hard as I want, unloaded, and I never have to worry about EGT's.

For what it's worth though, extra monitoring of your engine's vitals can't be wrong. ):h
 
It took tough dicipline, but I put on guages before I did my exhaust, no cat, and I had no problem seeing 1000egt without full throttle, semi-normal driving with a little pushin it going on... I am sure I could have easily hit 1200+ Had I stepped into it. Thats not in tow, granted 9000k curb weight.


That theory of theirs to watch the temp guage but not EGT's probably explains alot of cracked blocks.

2nd mod I did, was Turbo master. That dropped my egts on average by 200. (Set to 2 1/4", most i've seen on a spike is 12), never coded on stock F programming.

My Jardine exhaust I ordered, never came last year, so I'm patiently waiting for another month before some serious mods start flying. Longevity is my goal. 0-60 will do you little good with a cracked block.
 
I wish I had come across this ealier. I was just considering my pyro gauge install the other day, and talking to my buddy about it, and I think its located in a very bad spot. My average sits around 300*'s and the plug is installed on the down pipe between the turbo and the 90* fitting before the cat.

so...to clarify for myself - is this pre-turbo?
 
and because I don't have a welder, the best place to go is the crossover - on the driver's side...lose the extension and make the wire between the sensor and gauge as short as possible.

Because I don't have a welder, I can just tap the hole, right? Or if not, is there someplace else I can go that I can tap into that I don't have to weld?
 
Matt Bachand said:
It took tough dicipline, but I put on guages before I did my exhaust, no cat, and I had no problem seeing 1000egt without full throttle, semi-normal driving with a little pushin it going on... I am sure I could have easily hit 1200+ Had I stepped into it. Thats not in tow, granted 9000k curb weight.


That theory of theirs to watch the temp guage but not EGT's probably explains alot of cracked blocks.

2nd mod I did, was Turbo master. That dropped my egts on average by 200. (Set to 2 1/4", most i've seen on a spike is 12), never coded on stock F programming.

My Jardine exhaust I ordered, never came last year, so I'm patiently waiting for another month before some serious mods start flying. Longevity is my goal. 0-60 will do you little good with a cracked block.
Click to expand...

I've coded since then a few times for overboost. Recently added cruise control will climb highway grades up at 12-13 boost, where I back out of it and just maintain speed, instead of try to accelerate.

Also with the exhaust, I absolutely NEVER see over 950 EGT's. Its kind of nice reading this post of mine saying I'd routinely see 1000. I totally forgot this info. I average around 650 cruisin around. Definite longevity gains.

Post turbo is alright too. Just the numbers will be a tad cooler, and slower. By a few hundred degrees or so.
 
NVW said:
Don't cut the thermal couple wire, it's a certain resistance.
Click to expand...


Thermocouples produce a small millivolt signal that is proportional to temperature. You can cut down or extend a thermocouple wire without changing the accuracy as long as you use the proper type of thermocouple wire for the extension. If we were talking about a 2 wire RTD instead of a thermocouple, then I would agree that the length of the wire should not be changed.
 
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