Push lok hose and Raptor lift pump

[great white]

OK.

Finally got around to pulling the raptor kit out and getting ready to start my 98's fuel supply system.

When I laid out all the hose in the kit from air dog, I discovered they had sent me 16 feet of Eaton 300 psi 1/2" push lok hose with it.

I'm thinking that's pretty much enough to go from teh filter manager right back to the tank!

Anyone see a reason why I shouldn't tap the back of my filter manager to accept a 1/2" push lock barb and use the hose from the tank to the filter manager?

Of course, there'll have to be enough slack for engine movement and the Raptor 100 plus MD57/FM12 Volvo 10 micron filter are going to be in there too.

I can't see a reason why not. That 90 GPH Raptor 100 shouldn't have any issue keeping that 1/2 ID line up to at least 4-5 psi at WOT (I never "floor it" anyways)

FTB ver 2.0 is already installed on my "new" filter manager, ready to go in.

The pickup in the tank will still be 3/8", but I can't do anything about that.........yet.......:devil:

I can't see a reason why not.

 

[NVW]

You got it might as well use it. Once the line is full it won't matter.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I've run rubber from pre filter to my relocated filter mgr, I did same on a friends Dmax once, just a matter of how far you want to go with it IMO.

As far as the tank line goes, I suspect you might be able to modify a Dmax tank pickup with it's larger line.

 

[great white]

I've run rubber from pre filter to my relocated filter mgr, I did same on a friends Dmax once, just a matter of how far you want to go with it IMO.

As far as the tank line goes, I suspect you might be able to modify a Dmax tank pickup with it's larger line.

That's a thought.

My intent is to use a stock pickup assembly, cut out the stock 3/8 line and make my own 1/2" pickup tube using the original as a template...:devil:

 

[great white]

The wrap up!

Not a lot to look at, not a lot of fancy stuff or "bling bling", just good ol' down to business hard workin' stuff.

But here's some pics none-the-less!

Eeewww:

Ahhh:

Splicing in the old pump connector:

Starting at the back and working our way forward:

You can see the last remaining original part of the fuel feed system at the compression fitting. I still have to make a new 1/2" pickup for the tank and route the return fuel through the head for fuel heating, but that's for another day:

Dang that's a nice filter unit, worth every penny! Green tape is holding the wiring for the WIF sensor, to be wired up tomorrow.

Snaking down behind the tank to tuck safely into the frame rails;

Working our way forward:

Nice pic of the clamps I used:

The serious business part:

moving forward again:

Making the turn into the engine bay:

Looking back:

up past the firewall:

Routing it through the engine bay:

(Nice pics of the engine mounted fuel gauge)

And finally back into the filter manager new 1/2" push lok connection:

Working on the wiring:

Wiring finished and ready to run:

(the messy looking stuff is the factory wiring, LOL!)

The hose is carefully routed everywhere, there is no touching or rubbing although it may look that way in some pics. There's a minimum of 1 inch clearance all around the line except where in is clamped solid.

The clamps have standoffs where required.

I was lucky in that everywhere I needed a clamp there were factory 1/4" holes (size of the bolts the clamps use) already in the frame so no drilling required on the frame. Always a good thing!

I only had to drill one hole in the drivers inner fender to mount one clamp and standoff where it turns around the firewall. Just an inner fender, no stress there.

All the wiring in split loomed and either clamped, zip tied or carefully routed out of the way.

The truck responds much nicer of the road. It drives smooth and stable (well, as stable as a diesel can). The quality of the engine sound is just "better" if that makes any sense. Throttle respond is a touch "livelier" also. I would bet the constant 8-10 psi is in no small part responsible for that.

All in all, a modification well worth the effort!

Even if it was a touch expensive....around 600-700 bucks "all in".

Should be good for a few thou miles, right?

 

[Matt Bachand]

The truck responds much nicer of the road. It drives smooth and stable (well, as stable as a diesel can). The quality of the engine sound is just "better" if that makes any sense. Throttle respond is a touch "livelier" also. I would bet the constant 8-10 psi is in no small part responsible for that.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ GREAT WHITE'S QUOTE ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I concur. I tried to explain this with words also. When I switch my 2nd Walbro on or off, I can notice that 'better' sound, and better feel, each and everytime. These IP's really like 8-10PSI.

 

[Pepperidge]

The pickup in the tank will still be 3/8", but I can't do anything about that.........yet.......:devil:

I can't see a reason why not.

if you have access to a machine shop you could always build a sump for the tank, similar to the one pictured below...best low restriction mod for a fuel pickup around...IMO

 

[Acesneights1]

GW did you buy the Raptor kit with wiring or just the LP ? Great Little LP aint it ?? Now my advice to you...Buy s spare relay. Advance Auto sells them but I don't have the part # but the relay Airdog uses is not heavy enough IMHO. I burned a few up. Party due to a real bad wiring job by the hacks at Lee's Auto ranch in ellington CT but also the relay can barely handle the draw of that LP. Also make sure your batt connections are spotless. I did a long write up on it.It was about a Dodge but it applies here. Also make yourself a jumper wire to bypas the relay and carry it in the glovebox. It can come in handy on the side of the road...Trust me. I plan on upgrading the relay on mine to a Continuous use Solenoid. Also I saw you used compressin fittings to tie into the lines to the tank. Russel now makes a fitting to go from the metric tank fitting to a JIC which cn then go to pushlok. The fittings are pricey but worth it if you want a nice neat hack free job. I have a set in my tool box but I'm settled in for the night and it's cold in the garage.
Also Airdog/pureflow makes auniversal Pickup tube kit for 1/2". I used one on my old burb. IMHO No benefit as the 3/8 can supply more fule than a 6.5 can burn.

 

[great white]

if you have access to a machine shop you could always build a sump for the tank, similar to the one pictured below...best low restriction mod for a fuel pickup around...IMO

Ooooo!

Me likey!

Where do you get that from?

 

[NVW]

It's from Cumminalong's build up thread, he made it.

 

[Pepperidge]

Yes...that is from Rich's build thread...

I have one made by my good friend Steve (Dura-Ration here on the site) it is done a bit different than Rich's...I personally prefer the design Steve used for mine...I'll try to get a pic of it up for you... it is a basically a copy of this one...

You can buy one from http://www.hellmannperformance.com/

they are $165 and I don't think they come polished as shown...

 

[great white]

GW did you buy the Raptor kit with wiring or just the LP ?

It was a kit.

Great Little LP aint it ??

Yup. Loud little bugger though, not obtrusive, but it's definitely not quiet....

Now my advice to you...Buy s spare relay. Advance Auto sells them but I don't have the part # but the relay Airdog uses is not heavy enough IMHO. I burned a few up. Party due to a real bad wiring job by the hacks at Lee's Auto ranch in ellington CT but also the relay can barely handle the draw of that LP.

My kit didn't come with a relay. It was meant to be wired to a 12v acc source from the underhood fuse panel. I added a 40a hella relay and chucked a spare in the glove box. I wired a dedicated 12v feed from the aux terminal in the underhood box and use the relay to trigger on/off from the original lift pump wring.

Also make sure your batt connections are spotless.

Always are! Routine maintenance for me

I did a long write up on it.It was about a Dodge but it applies here. Also make yourself a jumper wire to bypas the relay and carry it in the glovebox. It can come in handy on the side of the road...Trust me.

meh, thought about it for priming the filter and what not. Just haven't gotten around to it. May not at all....

I plan on upgrading the relay on mine to a Continuous use Solenoid.

I've got a cole hersey 24117 waterproof 85a relay sitting on the shelf. If the Hellas don't cut the mustard, I may install that instead.

Also I saw you used compressin fittings to tie into the lines to the tank. Russel now makes a fitting to go from the metric tank fitting to a JIC which cn then go to pushlok. The fittings are pricey but worth it if you want a nice neat hack free job. I have a set in my tool box but I'm settled in for the night and it's cold in the garage.

I'm planning on going with a 1/2 feed line from the tank, which will be flared for a pushlok fitting, so no hack jobs here! The compression fitting on the 3/8 line is temporary. Well, temporary might be for a while.....

Also Airdog/pureflow makes auniversal Pickup tube kit for 1/2". I used one on my old burb.

I'll look into it. But I'm liking the sump idea a lot more.....

IMHO No benefit as the 3/8 can supply more fuel than a 6.5 can burn.

Yup, true enough. I've going 1/2 all the way because I don't like stepping up and down all the way along. My lift pump system is definitely more robust than the stock DS4 can make use of. But then again, I've always been a fan of more is better.....

 

[Acesneights1]

NO RELAY ??
There should be a relay and the Raptor should be run directly to ythe battery. It draws ALOT of power. I am running one in my CUCV. Same one you have. I love the noise. It sounds cool.

 

[great white]

NO RELAY ??
There should be a relay and the Raptor should be run directly to ythe battery. It draws ALOT of power. I am running one in my CUCV. Same one you have. I love the noise. It sounds cool.

Nope, no relay.

At least not in the kit I got and it was specifically listed fro a 6.5 on the packaging.

Gimme a minute to go out and check the instructions again...

 

[Acesneights1]

That is whacked. So the Raptor is wired into the existing wiring for the stock LP instead of the existing wiring being used to excite a solenoid to connect the Raptor to the battery ?? That is NO GOOD. That Raptor draws ALOT of juice. In fact you are probably getting resistance through the factory wiring. That Raptor needs a minimum of 12 ga(I think I used 10ga) wire directly to the battery. That will burn up the OPS very quickly. I was under the impression that the kit they sold included a relay that got wired to the factory wiring. In fact Pepp posted the manual on here for me in a thread I did about the Raptor.

 

[great white]

Check my instructions again.

Nope, no relay in the kit.

The raptor is meant to be wired to an ACC source in the underhood fuse panel. They even supply a spade connector you're supposed to crimp on to the wire and plug in.

Mine is not wired like that.

I used the original pump wiring to trigger the relay, the relay feeds 12v to the pump through dedicated wiring.

 

[Acesneights1]

Wow. when I bought the Kit for my Dodge it had a relay and wired right to the batt.

 

[Acesneights1]

This is a bit lengthy but you may find it interesting...

http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=8860.0

 

[poptopjr]

Hey great white, nice job. Very nice and clean. I'm wondering what filter unit did you get? I've been looking around, and I see that Heath sells one, but not much information listed. I tend to like to look around and compare things before I buy something. If you could share I would appreciate.

Nice write up and very nice job, it looks like you take pride in taking care of your truck.

Keith

 

[great white]

Hey great white, nice job. Very nice and clean. I'm wondering what filter unit did you get? I've been looking around, and I see that Heath sells one, but not much information listed. I tend to like to look around and compare things before I buy something. If you could share I would appreciate.

Nice write up and very nice job, it looks like you take pride in taking care of your truck.

Keith

Got it off ebay. It's a "pre filter" for an MD57/FM12 Volvo:

Rated to support 440 hp and 80 gph:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260701498631