pressure plate and flywheel bolts

[iamdave0887]

I need to know what the bolts are that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. I don't think i have said bolts in my bucket-o-parts for the swap.

Also can the bolts that are currently holding the flexplate to the crankshaft, be used to hold the manual transmission flywheel to the crankshaft.

I've found these from Dorman(part # 74070)

but i just want to be 100% sure just so i don't screw something up.

 

[benjammin]

GM lists 7/16x20x1 3/4" bolts for diesel/manual flywheels, pn 10085215; they list 7/16x20x45/64 for diesel/auto applications. The m/t listing assumes the factory dual-mass flywheel, so if you're using a 1pc wheel you might need different bolts or be able to reuse your a/t bolts.

 

[iamdave0887]

GM lists 7/16x20x1 3/4" bolts for diesel/manual flywheels, pn 10085215; they list 7/16x20x45/64 for diesel/auto applications. The m/t listing assumes the factory dual-mass flywheel, so if you're using a 1pc wheel you might need different bolts or be able to reuse your a/t bolts.

All the flywheel's i've seen are single mass for the 6.2s. i think the dual mass was a 6.5 only thing.

 

[benjammin]

My bad, I just looked at the first truck in your sig since you didn't specify.

The GM catalog doesn't list dimensions for the 6.2l bolts, just the pn- 839756.

 

[iamdave0887]

My bad, I just looked at the first truck in your sig since you didn't specify.

The GM catalog doesn't list dimensions for the 6.2l bolts, just the pn- 839756.

Not your fault i didn't specify. ):h

Thanks. I"ll see if i can cross that number, or maybe just get them from the stealership.

 

[shortcircut65]

make sure they arent too long, like some moron did with the sportsman i used to work on. the beginning of this season, they went to put the new motor in, and in a rush, a friend of the team put the bolts from the late model on the flywheel, and were too long, and no one could figure out why the motor would not turn over. so in their infinite knowledge, the bring the car to the street, and push it with the truck, and try to pop start it. end result=broken block where the caps bolt into it.......

 

[btfarm]

Should be easy enough to figure the right thread pitch and length but the real important part is that they are competition grade and they likely will have a short head. Usually a part store will stock them separate strictly for flywheels. Dealer would be a good choice though...

 

[iamdave0887]

they were 3/8" coarse thread. I bought 3/4" and 1" lengths. I"ll see which ones do not stick through the back.

 

[iamdave0887]

What's the torque spec for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts?

I also need the torque specs for the the bellhousing to engine and bellhousing to transmission.

Anyone know where i can find the torque specs for an SM465 install? Or does anyone here have access to Alldata or Gm's SI?

The bolts are 3/8" coarse thread grade 8s with lock washers.

 

[just a number]

engine to bellhousing is 35ft/lb
pressure plate is 32ft/lb
I know I have the bellhousing to transmissions one somewhere around here

ok found it. bellhousing to transmission is 75ft/lb. I warn you right now the top passenger side on is a PITA to do

 

[iamdave0887]

engine to bellhousing is 35ft/lb
pressure plate is 32ft/lb
I know I have the bellhousing to transmissions one somewhere around here

ok found it. bellhousing to transmission is 75ft/lb. I warn you right no the to top passenger side on is a PITA to do

You have any more torque specs i can use?

I need one for the t-case to the trans. the two are currently not connected.

 

[just a number]

30ft/lb should be right

 

[iamdave0887]

75 ft/lbs for the bellhousing to the trans seems quite high. The bellhousing is aluminum on top of that. I don't want to damage anything.

 

[just a number]

sorry about that. my mistake. I looked up the old specs for the cast version. the only ones I can find are the ones for the r/v(40ft/lbs) or the C/K(55ft/lbs). that's for 88-90

 

[iamdave0887]

sorry about that. my mistake. I looked up the old specs for the cast version. the only ones I can find are the ones for the r/v(40ft/lbs) or the C/K(55ft/lbs). that's for 88-90

not a problem. (i believe this came from an R/V truck as it was from an 88 blazer).

I couldn't get anything but an open ended wrench in there to tighten the bolts, but i put all my weight into tightening them. That's a lot of weight. ):h I don't think they'll be going anywheres, but i'm going to check them again.

I've got to have the shifter welded to take the slop out. the tack welds at the bottom are cracked, so i'm going to have the guy that welded the bellhousing weld the shifter, as i coudl do it but it needs to operate smoothly, so it can't have any crazy slag on the welds.

Here's what i need to do.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/sm465/index.html

Is the "snout" on the end of the shifter supposed to have play in it? There's a little roll pin holding the snout on, and it's got a good bit of slop in it. I do see a cracked tack weld, so i know that needs to be fixed up.

 

[just a number]

:rofl: I was looking at that article last night. there is some info about the roll pin in there too.

 

[iamdave0887]

:rofl: I was looking at that article last night. there is some info about the roll pin in there too.

If you weld up the cracked welds, be careful not to fill in that indent gap. It's there for a reason. My buddy filled it in, and i had no shifts at all, so i had to grind it down with a die grinder and now it's working.

 

[just a number]

thanks for the heads up. did it tighten things up?

 

[iamdave0887]

thanks for the heads up. did it tighten things up?

It did tighten things up a good bit.

I still have to check the roll pins. I may tap them out and replace them, but the slop is much less than before. Before the welding i'd put the trans in gear and the shifter would flop around like it was in neutral. Very annoying. Now it just wiggles a little bit, but i can still tell it's in gear. i'm going to tap the roll pins in a bit tighter and see how that helps.

A good trick for the roll pins that the article lists is to find a hose clamp and tighten it around the shifter tower by the roll pins. it'll keep them from backing out a little bit.

 

[just a number]

I 've got the cracked weld issue but I think alot f it is the slop in the pin that holds the shout on. The pin is half the size of the hole. is yours like that too?