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Power Brake Booster? 2000 CHEV K3500 6.5L Diesel

In the future avoid leak sealer. Leak sealer will FUBAR some AC recovery systems and plugs things up when the system is opened for repair.

The dye is generally "yellow" and needs UV light to be seen. Some different stuff out there perhaps.
 
This doesn't SAY it needs a UV light but I will get one (they only cost 10 bucks)

Red Angel has a money-back guarantee. Maybe I should take-them-up-on-their-offer. I wouldn't expect to see them send me my $35 back but it's worth a try.
 
Dye is always uv dye, and unless it's a big leak, you will most likely need a black light and want a pair of the yellow lense glasses to make the dye stand out. Common leak points for the a/c system are low pressure switches on the accumulator, if it's a 96-02 it most likely has an R6 delphi compressor, aka THE BELLY LEAKER because they leak and drip out the bottom from the end cap seals, and the other BIG leak point is that ridiculous high side schrader with a rubber flap valve in it right where it gets blasted with super hot refrigerant gas leaving the compressor. The aftermarket now makes one that uses a regular screw in scrader valve inside of an adapter. Bought a couple at o reillys last year for $6 iirc. The easiest way to check the scraders is with the system off(but charged with some pressure), put a dab of a/c oil in them, then watch for bubbling.
 
I went out there last night (in the dark) and threw the black light on the truck. The AC compressor is leaking all around its belly. There's dye around the accumulator switches and they even appear to have sprayed dye forward on top of the air filter housing. (unless I sprayed some out when I disconnected a can) There's a section of green about the size of a postcard, at the top center of the condenser, behind the grill. Results of the vacuum test show it loses all of its vacuum in about 30 minutes. I may just pass on trying to get the A/C working in this truck. I already spent a lot of time and money on it. Maybe I'll just sell it as a truck with no A/C.
 
Question: I also checked my Sierra and Equinox while I was out in the dark. The Sierra (whose A/C is working great) has a mess of dye around the in-and-out ports of the compressor (but I think it's residual because this truck is holding its freon) I think I remember spilling some dye when I was disconnecting the can. Anyway, it does have a small leak because it was working when I bought the truck but over the next couple years it stopped cooling. I bought one of those quick-fix kits and put a couple cans of 134A in and it has been working great ever since, but I have since bought a set of gauges and a vac pump all in an effort to fix the 1-Ton truck.

I've mentioned to you before, that a "civilian" gets raped around here, when he takes his A/C in for service. My 05 Equinox (which I bought new) leaked its gas out of a spot on the condenser where GM mounted a mounting bracket with a damn rivet right into the high pressure tube that runs down the side. (The guy I took it to told me this) Since I was in the auto parts business at the time I bought the new condenser myself but he still charged me $600 for installation and diagnosis.

Last Summer I got new tires and I asked the Firestone Store guy to check the A/C (because it stops blowing cold intermittently) and they charged me $250 for adding dye and not finding anything wrong with the system.

ANYWAY: I would like to clean off any dye from previous applications so I can start with a clean slate next time I check it for leaks. I saw a product from Tracer Products called "Glo-Away Dye Cleaner." Should I send-away for it or is there some other cleaner that will work just-as-well?
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Dye is always uv dye, and unless it's a big leak, you will most likely need a black light and want a pair of the yellow lense glasses to make the dye stand out. Common leak points for the a/c system are low pressure switches on the accumulator, if it's a 96-02 it most likely has an R6 delphi compressor, aka THE BELLY LEAKER because they leak and drip out the bottom from the end cap seals, and the other BIG leak point is that ridiculous high side schrader with a rubber flap valve in it right where it gets blasted with super hot refrigerant gas leaving the compressor. The aftermarket now makes one that uses a regular screw in scrader valve inside of an adapter. Bought a couple at o reillys last year for $6 iirc. The easiest way to check the scraders is with the system off(but charged with some pressure), put a dab of a/c oil in them, then watch for bubbling.
Click to expand...

Thanx for all your help, Fermanator. I worked on that baby and finally got it straightened-out. After looking at it sitting in my garage for (what would have been) FOUR years this Fall, I sold it. I was able to salvage some of the thousands of dollars I had invested in it! Several prospective buyers said they liked it but that $5000 was "too strong" for a 2000 truck. I stuck to my guns insisting that over-the-years I had bought at-least-a-half-dozen of these "one-tons" and that they are rare. Finding a good one is extremely difficult and of-all-the-ones-I-found, this was the best.

A guy talked me into taking $4500 because he was going to have-to spend $500 for the parts to fix the A/C. I agreed and let it go. Thanx again. John W.
 
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