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Portin Heads...

Aha! Somebodys getting what I mean here! Thanks for putting that in smart people talk buddy :lol I must be difficult to understand on what I'm trying to get acrost I guess hmm.... Well at any rate hard to explain without the pictures that I wish I could post up at the moment...

Thanks!
 
Yes, I understand about turbulence, sure Tim does too.
What I am wondering about is : is it necessary, do you think there are turbulences as long as there is no flow. There's just a cavity to the blocked port, sure, but I'm not sure about turbulences...
 
I wouldn't bother with the egr port either. I ported under the valves on my 6.2 heads,but I have no idea if it made any more power,I am thinking of going to 6.5 heads,guess that would be a good test,except the 6.2 exhaust valves are larger. I have one 6.2 head off,guess I could pull some valves and take a picture.
 
There's still a ridge there and exhaust gas leaving the port will catch on it and swirl into the egr runner I'm thinking. It's almost a why not thing for peace of mind. With a plug in place there's no possibility for any exhaust to enter that runner and cause turbulence or restriction to flow.
 
matuva said:
Yes, I understand about turbulence, sure Tim does too.
What I am wondering about is : is it necessary, do you think there are turbulences as long as there is no flow. There's just a cavity to the blocked port, sure, but I'm not sure about turbulences...
Click to expand...

X2

To be non laminar or laminar there needs to be flow, no port in the intake for it to be flowing through so why the need to plug it off, the or maybe I'm still not clear where you think the flow is happening if the EGR port in the block is open at one end, but capped off at the other, either by upper intake covering it, the style of intake manifold gasket with the built in blank off covering that, or u packing it full of super metal result is the same no flow, so IMO if you have a F intake you already have a no flow condition.

Attached pics are 6.2 head showing the EGR path maybe you can explain your thoughts , cause I'm at a loss
 

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crash2win64 said:
There's still a ridge there and exhaust gas leaving the port will catch on it and swirl into the egr runner I'm thinking. It's almost a why not thing for peace of mind. With a plug in place there's no possibility for any exhaust to enter that runner and cause turbulence or restriction to flow.
Click to expand...


It's pretty much a capped tube/chamber can't cause turbulence IMO, I'm not getting the point restriction of flow of what to where, total exhaust gasses being evacuated ???
 
Not sure what is not understood. If you have a pipe a straight pipe flow will be laminar. If you have a pipe that has a T, which is capped, then air will go into the T and create turbulence. It wont just pressurize the T, air will flow into and out of it constantly creating turbulence.

Havent we had these discussion why a gutted cat might not be as good as a cat with a straight pipe through it?
 
I would guess that it wouldn't,but I am worried that the epoxy will not hold up to the heat,hopefully it is as good as they say it is.
 
6.2 turbo- I have an idea on how to tie it all in together to help keep that from happening theoretically.

TD - Yes the pics help but if you have one with a head disassembled and can see down into the exhaust passage with the egr runner and with the valve taken out.

Right where the valve opens and there's the exhaust and egr passages. I want to put the plug right there. Or are you alluding to the exhaust taking the easier pathway down the more open exhaust runner than the smaller egr runner is why this would be to no benefit? Or would the spinning turbo make vacuum and cause exhaust to only go down the exhaust runner? What I would think is once the exhaust valve is open and the exiting exhaust leaving the combustion chamber would go into both the egr and exhaust runners and not just out the exhaust runner because the the egr passage is blocked off up top by the intake manifold. I thought of this plug because it shapes where I want the exhaust to go and that's only one direction and not give anything a chance or leave an edge to cause turbulence. More or less just force it to go only the one way...

You have peaked my interest now though TD because I didn't think about the different cooling rates of the two dissimilar materials causing problems with the plug holding together in the egr passage. This is going to require some more thought apparently I guess and maybe another call to Loctite again. And I take it you've had good results with that other material you were using to repair blocks? Any drawbacks to it?

Thanks
 
Yea I had thought of concrete earlier but I'm pretty sure that would have serious issues holding up to direct contact with exhaust over extended periods of time. But you do give me the idea now to make the plug out of putty like an inch or two thick and then pour concrete over it up to the top of the egr outlet. That would be ok I'm thinking...

Buddy dude your a flippin genius cuz apparently I have no coherent way to say what I wanna say and I explain it all out and it takes you like two sentences. I'm starting to feel like a tard lol
 
crash2win64 said:
And I take it you've had good results with that other material you were using to repair blocks? Any drawbacks to it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you go to Belzona site and you can see multiple uses for supermetal, I've used Belzona successfully in other repairs low stress areas mostly, I'm not sure how it would do for what you are contemplating the tech line @ Belzona should be able to better advise you if it would work,
 
I'm still up in the air about doing this really. What I've arrived at is make the plug about an 1.5" long or so out of Loctite 2000 and fill the rest of that egr passage up with concrete block filler to help tie everything together. I would also use mesh in with the loctite 2000 to help tie it together better as that's what they recommended over the phone for thicker applications. I have yet to make another call about cooling properties of the Loctite material. Still kicking it around I guess... Anyone have any insight on what I'm missing possibly?

Thanks
 
Ok it may be a shot in the dark here but with all of the concerns with dissimilar materials, what about welding a block in there? I know that you can weld cast with the right stuff, I have it done for work more often than I like. That way it would all be the same matrial. I amagine it would be tight to make the weld in such a small space but using a arc welder you should get enough burn in to make a solid weld plus the weld rods are bendable so you can weld around the corner so to speak.
 
dracor85 said:
Ok it may be a shot in the dark here but with all of the concerns with dissimilar materials, what about welding a block in there? I know that you can weld cast with the right stuff, I have it done for work more often than I like. That way it would all be the same matrial. I amagine it would be tight to make the weld in such a small space but using a arc welder you should get enough burn in to make a solid weld plus the weld rods are bendable so you can weld around the corner so to speak.
Click to expand...

I work at a place that we build prototype engines. we do anything and everything. We have done welding on cast iron but its very difficult to do with out cracking. The cast iron has to be PERFECTLY clean otherwise it will not create a clean weld. And you have to heat the piece up to a constant temp then weld it and bring it back down slowly so hopefully it wont crack. The welding is done by fabby's that have been welding for decades.

On vintage engines that we have done anytime theres a crack we will not take a chance on welding we will stitch plug it. Tried and true method.
 
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