Portin Heads...

[crash2win64]

So I started porting heads Sunday night here. Going all right but I'm looking at the EGR port in the exhaust valve thinking that it's causing some negative effect on flow through the heads. Well after a trip to the local Grainger supply house I found this Loctite 2000 degree putty. I'm thinking about plugging the EGR port with this putty possibly. Anyone done anything of the sort here? Or has anyone worked with this putty material before? My only concerns would be pieces flaking off from where it's feathered out and then making it's way to the turbo and on the can it says it shrinks after curing...

Any thoughts? Thanks...

 

[matuva]

Plug the EGR by installing a plate between EGR valve and upper intake = no more flow.

Is that what you're looking for ?

 

[crash2win64]

Nope. Factory no EGR due to it being a one ton I'm thinking. I'm talking within the shape of the exhaust port itself. I want to plug it right where it starts to take exhaust gases to circulate into the intake. Right by the exhaust valve itself if that makes sense. I want to minimize any possibility of turbelence to flow...

Thanks though

 

[Turbine Doc]

Nope. Factory no EGR due to it being a one ton I'm thinking. I'm talking within the shape of the exhaust port itself. I want to plug it right where it starts to take exhaust gases to circulate into the intake. Right by the exhaust valve itself if that makes sense. I want to minimize any possibility of turbelence to flow...

Thanks though

Your 3500 should be EGR passageless and already blocked, see difference between S & F upper/lower intakes

 

[matuva]

Yup, that's right Tim.
I'm always thinking about K1500 and forgot the 3500 are egrLESS.

Tim, did you silver platted your intake ?

 

[crash2win64]

Yes I get that the EGR is blocked on the intake manifold. I'm talking about blocking the passage off in the exhaust port itself. I don't have stock heads from the 98 as I had to buy new ones and these are aftermarket. I would almost venture to say all the oem heads came with the egr runner in them as then they wouldn't have to have two different sets of heads for the same motor. It'd be cheaper to have two different intake manifolds in my opinion.

Also it's very hard for me to post pictures so you could know exactly what I'm talking about as I'm working from my phone...

 

[matuva]

I think I understand what you look for : filling the inside of EGR port with loctite stuff so as to plug it.

But, as long as the intake itself is plugged, exhaust gaz won't go through the passage anyways ?

 

[crash2win64]

Right but I wanna make the plug down by the exhaust valve itself so there's no chance for exhaust gases to go into that port or cause a restriction to flow. Basically I want a better shape for the exhaust port so put the plug in and then feather it out so everythings smooth

 

[buddy]

That sounds like a good idea as long as the stuff will stay in place, like it is locked in place after hardening by some grooves or a ledge or something and not just adhering to the aluminum.

 

[crash2win64]

Aluminum? The heads I have are cast iron... Are there aluminum heads out there for the 6.5 then? That'd be interesting if there was...
I was thinking the roughness of the casting would hold it in place but the only thing I'm worried about is the can says it shrinks a little after hardening. I'm thinking I would make the plug out of this material maybe like an inch or so thick down into the egr passage from the exhaust side. I'd really have no qualms about this if it didn't have to circulate through a turbo lol

The putty I'm talking about is from Grainger. Just search on their site for Loctite 2000 degree putty otherwise I can post a link in a couple of minutes. Also I'll be calling Loctite themselves today so I can ask more about this stuff.

 

[crash2win64]

Check out Grainger.com and look up item 2TKR6 Thats the putty I've been speaking of and I don't have direct link cuz that got cut off on the printout I have

 

[Matt Bachand]

Turbine Doc was working with some kind of Block repair putty he has been using with success on Loco' Engines. Ask him what he uses, if it holds blocks together, it should work there too I would think.

I remember him referring to it when we were chit-chatting on the forum about repairing broken blocks due to starter failure taking out the chunk, rendering a otherwise good block useless.

 

[6.2 turbo]

Are you bowl porting ?

 

[crash2win64]

I would say so yes. Taking the excess material out of the port and smoothing out the roughness of the casting. I've heard bowl blending before before but I just call it porting. I don't like sounding too technical lol. Why do you ask 6.2 turbo?

 

[crash2win64]

Matt B- Block repair putty or epoxy may be one thing but that wouldn't need to be as high temp as what I'm going for here. The highest amount of heat is made right in the area I'm working with and something you'd use to repair broken starter mounts like JB weld etc. just wouldn't cut it for high temp longevity...

 

[Turbine Doc]

There is no chance of flow that I know of, what kind of heads do you have, got a link to the web since you can't post pics, stuff I posted about before is Belzona and would work well for this I think sort of like JB weld on steroids. But I still think it is unnecessary unless something different about the heads you have.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Guys I'm going to run this by some folks I know, to see if a product I've used for years mite work here http://www.belzona.com/engines_casings.aspx I used it in the USN on some marine products.

I just introduced it to the locomotive Diesel world, turned a $320K engine replacement into a $900 in place repair, that locomotive has been pulling freight for 3 months now.

Belzona is industrial grade metal epoxy mega strong JB Weld if you will, comes in different strengths one such strength requires a diamond tipped cutter to machine it after it's set up.

DZZ PM me your email address and we can talk some more.

in this post http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=14144&highlight=belzona&page=2

 

[Turbine Doc]

Yup, that's right Tim.
I'm always thinking about K1500 and forgot the 3500 are egrLESS.

Tim, did you silver platted your intake ?

Nope it is chrome ceramic coat that was a F intake I had that got submerged during hurricane Katrina, the salt kept on leeching out of it so I took it down to the local jet hot shop had it glass bead blasted, then ceramic coated it, so that salt residue (white stuff you see from aluminum corrosion) would not continue "bleeding" from the intake.

 

[crash2win64]

Well I got my heads off of eBay. It was $540 for the set and out east somewhere like NJ or MD. I would believe there similar to what Clearwater sells. The guy over the phone told me the were Procomp cast in Australia so they are from China more than likely... I couldn't find the seller on eBay when I just checked here so that's why I didn't post a link. I can dig out the paperwork and give you a name if you really need it...

TD do you have the specs on this Belzona compound? Cost? The Loctite putty I'm looking at using is about $80 for the little 8 oz. can.

If anyone wants pictures of my project here I can email them or text them to you if you want just shoot me a pm with your digits

Thanks,
Joe R.

 

[buddy]

Its not flow that he is concerned about, it is non-laminar flow due to a non smooth curve to the exit. Any edge or closed off port could cause turbulence when pushing out the exhaust gasses.