• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

PMD/Resistor; Etc.

SethRoush97_6_5

SethRoush97_6_5

New Member
Messages
24
Reaction score
3
Location
Chesterville, Ohio
How is everyone today? Quick question/s. My PMD/Heat sync is on top of the manifold so it's very esy to get to. I got the truck with it already relocated with a #7 resistor in it. I'd like to put a #9 resistor in it but I also know there are different versions of the PMD and not all if them let you change the resistor. Is there a way I can determine whether or not my PMD can be swapped out without having to pull it apart or anything? I had another question but forgot it in the process of typing so I'll stick to one at a time for now. Thanks in advanced.
 
A tune gets results (lots more fuel etc.) you can feel. A resistor change doesn't change fueling enough to mess with.

You should get the PMD out of the "oven" over the intake and remote mount to the front bumper.
 
You won't notice any difference just swapping resistors. And for sure get the PMD off the intake and out of engine bay.
All the resistors are removable in PMDs, but grey color PMDs have a slightly different shape than black ones. Either can be made to fit each other easily though.
 
Ok, that helps. A few more questions. Whats the best place to get a tuner? The only place I have found so far to even get one is Heath diesel. Are there other places that have them that are suggested or not? Also what are the feed the beast mods? I have searched all over for them and cant find them anywhere.
 
My friends 97 had the $$diesel mount on the intake & still had PMD failures. 2 is better than 1 (main/standby) so moved heat sink with extended harness (from Leroy) and hopefully last as long as mine currently 8 years on used PMD, unit moved off of pump lasted 7 years. Added additional grounds to pump/from pump to heat sink & to chassis.

 
Last edited:
ditchpig said:
My friends 97 had the $$diesel mount on the intake & still had PMD failures. 2 is better than 1 (main/standby) so moved heat sink with extended harness (from Leroy) and hopefully last as long as mine currently 8 years on used PMD, unit moved off of pump lasted 7 years. Added additional grounds to pump/from pump to heat sink & to chassis.

Click to expand...

Cooler than the intake, but, still needs to get out from the under hood heat. Front bumper is ideal.
 
You would think its cooler there, but its actually the same temp as mounted to the intake. Mounted to the IP is coolest spot in engine bay and we all know thats still to hot.
 
ditchpig said:
Bumper not the best location here as hitting coyotes & coydogs is common at night:banghead:. At least there still solid bumpers.
Click to expand...

Only bigger game hurts the real metal bumpers our antique trucks have. They aren't plastic like the vehicle behind you who is gonna eat the fresh road kill following you too close with their plastic high MPG coffin on wheels. I don't even lift the throttle for coyotes. Like black cats: If they don't completely cross your path than it isn't bad luck. I find they have above average skill of staying out of and getting out of the way unlike other roadkill. Chevy Cavalier is the size that starts to mess bumpers up.

Tumbleweeds do make a mess that you have to sometimes pull shards out.

The bumper mount PMD my 1995 had has survived a few up close and personal "wild game" encounters including the car wash afterwards.
 
If your that worried about it, get a 8" long chunk of channel iron and bolt that on there first. The ambient temp will remain the same, and if anything would help stabilize the temp change better. If you hit anything hard enough to damage that, the pmd will be the last thing you care about.:hurting:
 
While we're on the subject, does anyone have the chart anymore with the PMD resistor values on it? I am trying to remeber the value of a # 10, just to make one and put it in my sig. for a little bit of Nerd fun.
 
Will L. said:
If your that worried about it, get a 8" long chunk of channel iron and bolt that on there first. The ambient temp will remain the same, and if anything would help stabilize the temp change better. If you hit anything hard enough to damage that, the pmd will be the last thing you care about.:hurting:
Click to expand...

They make different weights per foot of channel Iron. I used the heavy duty 8" on the back of the 1989 C2500 The S10 that ran into me didn't even mes up the pintle hook. Couldn't tell I had been hit at all.

His new S10 with the sticker still in the windshield did not fare as well
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top