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PMD in the Raleigh, NC area

toddlnrd

toddlnrd

My first diesel!
Messages
208
Reaction score
11
Location
Garner, NC
After about 6 months, I am getting closer to getting my Suburban back in running condition!!

At this point, it will run without throwing any codes, but cuts off after a few seconds. I am thinking that it might be a fried PMD. I had some wiring issues that could have possibly fried the PMD.

Does anyone in the Raleigh, NC area have a spare PMD that I can try on my Suburban?

Thank you,
Todd
 
I just want to plug it in and try it and give it back. I can compensate you for your trouble. I just don't want to buy one if I don't have to.
 
So was that it? Glad you found a local one to borrow. I give away all the ons I end up with.
If yoh are going to own a ds4 6.5, buy a new one for test/ replacement. It is not if it is when you will need it. Having a spare pmd is like having a spare tire- you dont NEED one, it's just smart to have one.
 
No, unfortunately, that was not it.

I am not getting any codes, but the motor shuts off after running for about 30-45 seconds. On restart, it runs for about 10 seconds before shutoff.

The shop that I have it at is going to look at the parameters on the scan-tool and make sure it is all in proper range.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Todd
 
Remove air filter to make sure not restricted.

Put a fuel pressur gauge on before IP and make sure yu have pressure going into IP when it dies.

After it dies immediately crack open a fuel injector nut and crank checking for fuel coming out.

Replace the Ip return hose (1/4") diameter with clear hose and check for fuel flow and bubbles when the problem occurs.
 
Will,
Thanks for the replies. It is difficult to ask the technician at the shop to perform these tests. It makes it look like I think I know more than he does, when clearly, that is not the case.

I suggested that he check the fuel pressure, but he kind of blew that idea off. Can pressure at the IP be read from a scan tool?
I have a gauge to read it at the bleedoff, but I don't have the truck to try it.

Do parts houses have clear 1/4" fuel line? Is regular fuel line ok to use (not diesel rated)?
 
AK,
No dash lights/codes being set. And no unusual things other than shutting off.
When you say ignition switch, do you mean the switch where you turn the key?
 
Good luck with the mechanic in the shop. Make sure you get back all "bad parts". Most shops can not deal with a 6.5 without over charging and under performing.

Do not pay them to throw parts at it. You will quickly be told you need a new injector pump most of the time. Tell them if it does not fix it, you are not paying for their misdiagnoses. Write that down on the work order they make you sign.

I know this sounds negative and like a jerk, but I have seen his same thing HUNDREDS of times- they dont know these engines and blame the ip.

Hopefully they know what they are doing.
 
Call me a pessimist (I do)...if they aren't willing to check fuel pressure when it is dying as quick as it does, I don't have faith that they know what they are doing. Sorry, that's the view from here.
Could be any number of things.
- Lift pump not filling the FFM so it shuts down would be my first guess but, I wouldn't condemn it without checking fuel pressures Pre and Post Fuel Filter manager.
Tank Sender filter (sock) gacked up. While I never had an issue with bad fuel in NC when we lived there, it is possible, especially if it has sat for several years (just got mine going again after being down almost two).
My spelling is off but the clear line you're looking for should be diesel rated and I believe the material is Tyrgon or Tirgon. Someone else please chime in and set this one straight.
I won't be in North Carolina (Fayetteville) for another month but, if you're still having issues, maybe a quick get together might help.
Hang in there.
 
Paveltolz said:
While I never had an issue with bad fuel in NC when we lived there, it is possible, especially if it has sat for several years (just got mine going again after being down almost two).
Click to expand...
I fired my 98 up on 8 year old fuel, no problems. Cold climates have their benefits.
 
Yes, cold/dry climate is a big plus and you are way ahead of me there and we are both way way ahead of ToddInrd though it does get cold now and again in Raleigh NC. Still, after pulling my 2 year old fuel through the airdog filters and separators it looked pretty good. I'm almost willing to put some more bio cleaner in the tank and pour it back in. Maybe cut it in with new fuel. Hate to toss out 15 gals of fuel but, I'd hate to mess up the truck for the price of 15 gals of fuel. Truck will burn about anything Dino but, it has to get the Dino to the injectors to do it. Hope ToddInrds can get his arms around this one before the 'expert' gets to deep into his wallet. FUEL PRESSURE!
 
UPDATE!!
"BIG GIRL" IS RUNNING AGAIN!
After a very long process, my Suburban is running again. As Will L., Paveltolz and AK Diesel suggested, my final problem was a fuel problem. The fuel line that feeds up to the "front" of the IP was too short and was pinched and restricting fuel.

She runs better than ever.

Thank all of you for your help and suggestions.
 
I love a happy ending (sniff). Very happy that you're back on the road and the problem was easy enough once discovered. Thanks for following up with the results, hadn't considered a shortened fuel line. Probably leaking at one end or the other and the quick repair to cut off the cracked material was taken too aggressively and instead of a quarter inch or so, much more was removed. Anyway, Welcome to TTS and happy motoring.
 
Wow, talk about 'face palm!' Todd, my apologies, I was looking at the "likes" and, well, never mind. I'm going to log off now and shut up.
 
If you want more "likes" post more pics of your truck, your pistols n rifles, or pics of pistols and rifles in the truck! We all like that!
 
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