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P0216 DTC

MrMarty51 said:
No one in town wants to weld this.
View attachment 94152
I have aluminum stick rod and have played with aluminum soldering but I think it would be better to grind away on the weaker side so when the bolt is torqued it would apply pressure to the stronger portion of the manifold.
Any suggestions ? ? ? ?
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I have a friend who is shop manager for a refinery pipeline company who welded mine. Can’t tell you about the process.

There should be a ton of these lowers available. You can install this as is and run it while searching for a new one.

My experience you crack them torquing them down over a wire that slips under the manifold. This is where feel comes into play when tightening. If there is a wire under it the final portion of the torquing process will squish down. Without a wire, it hits hard and hits torque level quickly.
 
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Nope, no EGR.
No wires laying in that area, nor anything else that I can see or feel.
This is a manifold that was give to Me, it may have been flawed before I got it but just not visibly.
I’ll dress some off the weak area then when the self washered bolt is torqued the load should mainly be on the sturdier portion.
I could attempt to weld it. I do have some 4044 Aluminum rod that has flux already on it. DC arc rod. I tap off most the flux then use the acetylene torch for heat. Problem, if there is impurities within the crack, it could blow out, creating an even bigger problem.
See how it goes this evening.
 
No one wants to weld it because any fair price will sound really high. The clean up time for cast aluminum to be welded sucks. Welding the crack will require drilling the hole again & resurfacing it.

Contaminated cast aluminum is a pain to weld, so a guy could easily find a full day’s shift being charged to it.
So 30 minutes to 8 hours is a huge price difference but plausible
 
When I busted the mounts on my first front differential (long story, don't ask) I took it to a Semi Truck Trailer Repair facility and they welded it back up. Cost about $150 though. Most likely because of the joy Will L. just described. Pity. I have another F lower that got an ear busted off of. Not worth the $$ to get it welded.
 
Will L. said:
No one wants to weld it because any fair price will sound really high. The clean up time for cast aluminum to be welded sucks. Welding the crack will require drilling the hole again & resurfacing it.

Contaminated cast aluminum is a pain to weld, so a guy could easily find a full day’s shift being charged to it.
So 30 minutes to 8 hours is a huge price difference but plausible
Click to expand...

Paveltolz said:
When I busted the mounts on my first front differential (long story, don't ask) I took it to a Semi Truck Trailer Repair facility and they welded it back up. Cost about $150 though. Most likely because of the joy Will L. just described. Pity. I have another F lower that got an ear busted off of. Not worth the $$ to get it welded.
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Yup. Thinking more on the lines of a big, thick, hardened washer under the bolt.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yup. Thinking more on the lines of a big, thick, hardened washer under the bolt.
Click to expand...
Under the head of the bolt.
Is what it should have said.
Got it fired up. Guess I didnt realize how much oil had gushed from the turbo feed hose.
It looked like most of it was on the ground.
Engine running and oil blowing out the turbo exhaust feet flange.
I’ll fire it up again tomorrow and give it a few RPM and see how much I can get cleared out.
The WTS lamp extinguished, twisted the key, dont think it made three RPMs and the enjun was running.
Now to finish the button up procedure then adjust timing and such.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Under the head of the bolt.
Is what it should have said.
Got it fired up. Guess I didnt realize how much oil had gushed from the turbo feed hose.
It looked like most of it was on the ground.
Engine running and oil blowing out the turbo exhaust feet flange.
I’ll fire it up again tomorrow and give it a few RPM and see how much I can get cleared out.
The WTS lamp extinguished, twisted the key, dont think it made three RPMs and the enjun was running.
Now to finish the button up procedure then adjust timing and such.
Click to expand...
Why didn’t you connect the turbo oil feed hose?
 
Tomorrow, force it into timing reset mode and see how the IP is setting.
While the engine is running I’ll give it some pretty good throttle and attempt to blow that oil out of the exhaust manifold.
Might even warm it enough to cook that oil thats left.
Dont really want that stuff coating the blades of the turbo charger.
 
It runs.
Timing off set was at -2.48 so I moved it some to the passenger side, didnt wanna over do it, probably needs some more, its now at -2.44.
I dont remember whats been stated as far as the max number to the - side but it seems it was -2.50.
Tomorrow after work the well cleaner guy is coming over to shoot and clean the shallow well. Probably wont get much time to do anything to the truck by the time He gets done.
Saturday and Sunday going to try and get that Triumph finished then I can devote my full attention to the truck.
 
I’ll try and get the turbo installed after the well cleaner gets here. Then see how it runs.
So far with the exhaust dumped wide open it sort of pops every once in a while, kind of like a gas engine with a spark plug thats been fowled and hits every once in a while. When it does that it sort of pops out the exhaust.
IDK if its from having the exhaust wide open or just WTF is going on.
 
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