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P0128

If the engine doesn't get above roughly 170 degrees in 15 minutes of driving, this code will set. Most likely you need t-stats.
 
ROCKAUTO has the stats and such, but you have to buy them individually. Don't forget the o-ring for the water outlet pipe.

Water outlet seal: C31889
front stat:131-131
rear stat:131-163

Don't know whats up with there catalog right now. The stats don't show up, but they still have them for sale.
 
Yup, mine did the same thing. Easy to change, iirc you have to take the oil fill off and intake baffle. Otherwise nothing to it.

I changed my sensor at the same time
 
The book tells you to take the belt and compressor off to change the stats. Pulling the oil fill tube out is MUCH easier to do, and no need to mess with the belt. Takes no time at all to do them really, you'll spend more time getting some coolant out than you will changing the stats.
 
Yeah it's right th
THEFERMANATOR said:
The book tells you to take the belt and compressor off to change the stats. Pulling the oil fill tube out is MUCH easier to do, and no need to mess with the belt. Takes no time at all to do them really, you'll spend more time getting some coolant out than you will changing the stats.
Click to expand...
Yeah it's right there in front of me and I already know what tools will be used. Piece of cake
 
I just did mine. Truck was running cold...like less than 165 f. T-tats were closed when I removed them but as Ferm mentioned they had deteriorated to the point they could not seal any longer(156k miles on em). I removed the AC and the oil fill tube. They are both so easy to remove there is really no compelling argument not to lol. A couple of tips I found along the way. Make SURE you do something to prevent coolant from running down into the oil fill tube hole. Simply stuffing a rag in there is not enough. Burping this system is easy but after reading a good bit of material on the proper way to do it I did find one thing lacking. Several instructions said "add coolant until you get coolant coming out of the bleed hole, install and tighten bleed screw, top off reservoir, thats it!" Well, thats basically correct but missing a couple of critical points. I filled with 2 gallons of distilled water first. Then added 2 gallons of Prestone Dex Cool(I did upper/lower rad hoses and Thanks to Ferman replaced the 2 3/8" long x 10mm hose beneath the t-stat housing) so my radiator was pretty much drained. If you're just doing t-stats you only lose about 1 gallon. I also r&r'd both idlers and the tensioner pully and installed a Gates Fleetrunner belt - all from Rock Auto.
Anyway, somewhere into gal 4 I started getting water with a very slight mix of dex coming out the bleed hole. It was coming out pretty solid. I stopped, got off the step ladder and as I walked away I heard what sounded like a big zipper coming from the area of the bleed hole. When I looked at it there was a steady stream of tiny bubbles coming from the hole. I added about another quart or so of coolant and each time another stream of bubbles came out - like 5 seconds worth. Did this 4 or 5 times until I got no air....this is after the initial "coolant coming out of the bleed hole". So the moral to the story is, you need to waste a little coolant to make sure you purge all the air out. In fact, air in the system is what caused the initial bad rap on Dex Cool.

You'll need to run it enough to open the t-stats a couple of times. I test drove mine Sunday night...all was well, no leaks at the big o-ring seal on the lower rad hose(woohoo). Monday morning I had to top of the reservoir...it was about 3 inches low.
 
The trick to burping the cooling system is to take the hose off the top of the radiator that runs over to the degas bottle. Works like a charm. Take the hose off fro mthe rad, open the screw in the housing, and they burp out in no time flat.
 
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