• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Oil vs undercoat?

B

bdemutis

Active Member
Messages
320
Reaction score
36
I just got a new truck to me it's from California I live in pa so I want to keep it rust free. I want to know the best prevention should I just mix some oil and diesel and spray her every once in awhile or should I undercoat it? Or should I spray it with chassis paint and oil coat it?
 
I have never priced it but there are companies like http://www.ziebart.com/.

Might contact a paint shop and see if they do an under carriage painting or touch up with something like POR or Rust Bullet paint ( https://www.rustbullet.com/products/automotive.html ). I sprayed some of my frame with Rustoleum and it at least looks better and is some protection. About anything is better than exposed metal.

Also heard about some stuff called sharkhide - http://www.sharkhide.com/ not sure if it will rust proof but it helps against oxidation so I assume it will help some. Looks like it helps protect paint and metal. I hope to eventually try some on my tractor just haven't got the chance yet.

I like Fluid Film its environmentally friendlier than just oil/diesel/Kerosene. Never tried Cosmoline but it looks good. A good salt terminator wash like boats use or salt spreading trucks use periodically would be good and recoat with fluid film or other etc.

Keeping a handle on any developing rust is important IMO because it seems to feed on itself.

Keep us posted on what you do and Bump the thread occasionally. I am always looking for good ways to make my stuff last longer and operate properly.
 
Last edited:
Ziebart=wasted cash

They simply cannot reach much surface area with their methods. Visit some body shops that have taken apart some Ziebarted "rustproofed" vehicles and ask them what they see when they remove door skins and such.
 
Yeah, that is not surprising. I figure nothing except a full tear down and repaint all nooks and crannies is going to prevent rust. Interior door panels etc would be extra labor and cost money. Ziebert and equivalents are only as good as franchise and how much you want to pay them to get behind stuff.

But still wouldn't they or a good paint shop could make the exposed areas look pretty good. Then maybe spray inside about everywhere you could stick a straw with something like rustbullet clear or other. Still looking for that magic product.

The salt terminator washes are suppose to leave a little coating to inhibit rust but I don't think its really weather proof and wears off. Its better than nothing.

I was surprised how well the salt terminator cut through some rust build up on my boat motor and improved temperature stability. I should have hot tanked the motor when it was out but just did a repair job and put it back together. Once it was running I salt terminated flushed the engine and I like it even for fresh water boats. I do it a couple times a year.
 
I had a Tacoma from upstate NY that had rust on the frame. I wanted to slow/stop the rust and thought about doing this. I researched a lot about oil coating a frame and rust prevention. Old timers would take oil from an oil change, put it in a sprayer, and coat the bottom of their cars. This was also done with diesel and kerosene. It seems everyone now said don't do this as it may make the rust worse. The oil would mix with the salt/water to create acids. Old oil formulations didn't do this. There is lots of info on the net about rust prevention and the old oil tricks. I would have a place like Ziebart spray the whole thing. I sand blasted all the spots on my truck and sprayed undercoating on. A LOT of work.
 
I live in a salt environment "an island on the gulf" and have been using Eastwood's chassis encapsulator products w/UV inhibitors that can be thinned w/acetone and does not need any top coat like POR15.

For the inside of chassis rails Eastwood make the formula in spray cans and provide an extended with a nozzle that has a circular spray pattern so as nozzle is slowly pulled through the inner chassis it puts a nice coating on the entire inner chassis rails that seals against the environment and various salts.....good chassis wash inner & outer on a regular basis also helps.

I spray HD Corrosion X which is similar too cosmoline on all ground connections after I use an oxi-guard paste on the threads, I don't stop there I spray the outsides of all the electrical connectors in the foot wells and under the step covers of the interior rocker panels and three to four inches in each direction harness around each connector.
 
while replacing window regulators in my '01 GMC, I did an experiment to see how far the nozzle tube would spray into the door - not far, at all. It sprayed about the length of the tube.

I pulled the plastic water shield back and sprayed the whole pinch seam with Fluid Film on both rear doors. The fronts won't be far behind.

I guess I need to do this with my bride's new Suburban, too, since she plans to drive it.
 
SnowDrift said:
while replacing window regulators in my '01 GMC, I did an experiment to see how far the nozzle tube would spray into the door - not far, at all. It sprayed about the length of the tube.

I pulled the plastic water shield back and sprayed the whole pinch seam with Fluid Film on both rear doors. The fronts won't be far behind.

I guess I need to do this with my bride's new Suburban, too, since she plans to drive it.
Click to expand...
Remember, don't block the drain holes at lower door skin seam.
 
i call BS on oil/acid...... oil leaks have prevented rust for years. i have sprayed it on a lot of bare metal and it works. don't believe everything you read. sometimes you just need to experiment and take a chance.
use a black soft rubber, used around commercial windows, not sure what it's called, that comes in rolls, has a paper liner to keep it from sticking to itself. take strips of that, place in a plastic container, add enough WD-40 to cover. over time, the rubber will soften and melt. apply using a disposable brush or a blasting nozzle rigged to spray the thinner liquid. add more oil/rubber to get desired consistency. WD-40 will evaporate after brushed/sprayed on exposed metal and will leave a rubber coating. for a more oily coat, use WMO. much cheaper than store bought/professional preps but is extremely messy, use gloves, cover exposed body parts. remove from skin using WD-40 soaked rag.
i have even used the "undercoat spray", the cheap junk that washes off when it rains, mixed with WMO to spray from a pump sprayer.
WMO, WATF, just about any petroleum product, except brake fluid, will create a barrier from oxygen. heating a surface, then spraying, is even better.
 
I don't need oil coating here, but will jump on the oil salt BS wagon as well.
I did pretty good in chemistry classes, maybe we have a chemist that can better explain it.
Any amount of salt needed to alter the ph of engine or atf oil would be so high, that it is halarious to think about- salt and ph, haha- When you dissolves sodium chloride(salt) in water(snow), the ionic compound dissociates into sodium ions and chloride ions. These ions do not interact with the hydrogen or hydroxide ions of water and so do not affect the pH of the solution in which they dissolve.
Salt has no ph. Its kinda the number 1 example every 6th grade science teacher uses explaining ph positive, negative, and nuetral- it is the most common nuetral we all use daily.

How long does it take for a battery leak to eat the battery tray? That is sulfuric acid. If we could mix something as cheap as salt with something as cheap as any hydrocarbon oil and create a powerful acid- the need for expensive acids in commercial and even daily use would be reduced so greatly the announcement would be all over the economic news for production reasons.


Random youtube video of a simple test:

The salt in the water thing(salt melted snow) is the "acid" you are fighting with rust. Rust is iron oxide- It is the literally the oxidation you need to stop. Stop oxygen from getting to the iron before the water gets to it.

So why oil? Well oil and water dont mix. And used oil is usually abound by any diy car guy. Is there better stuff- YEAH!!! Paint that rig with multiple heavy coats. But free oil that doesnt mix with water, even when saturated with salt. If you get so much salty snow underneath, you need to wash it off once in a while and reapply oil. It isnt the salt in the oil has magically broken the laws of physics. It has rubbed through the oil and now is in contact with the metal.

The "acid producing crowd" needs to learn some stuff from this group about salt and hydrocarbons:
https://www.insidescience.org/news/molten-salts-could-improve-fuel-economy

There is just so much wrong on so many levels of this.

I feel like mybusters needs a couple another season between this and LED fears.
 
Will L. said:
I don't need oil coating here, but will jump on the oil salt BS wagon as well.
I did pretty good in chemistry classes, maybe we have a chemist that can better explain it.
Any amount of salt needed to alter the ph of engine or atf oil would be so high, that it is halarious to think about- salt and ph, haha- When you dissolves sodium chloride(salt) in water(snow), the ionic compound dissociates into sodium ions and chloride ions. These ions do not interact with the hydrogen or hydroxide ions of water and so do not affect the pH of the solution in which they dissolve.
Salt has no ph. Its kinda the number 1 example every 6th grade science teacher uses explaining ph positive, negative, and nuetral- it is the most common nuetral we all use daily.

How long does it take for a battery leak to eat the battery tray? That is sulfuric acid. If we could mix something as cheap as salt with something as cheap as any hydrocarbon oil and create a powerful acid- the need for expensive acids in commercial and even daily use would be reduced so greatly the announcement would be all over the economic news for production reasons.


Random youtube video of a simple test:

The salt in the water thing(salt melted snow) is the "acid" you are fighting with rust. Rust is iron oxide- It is the literally the oxidation you need to stop. Stop oxygen from getting to the iron before the water gets to it.

So why oil? Well oil and water dont mix. And used oil is usually abound by any diy car guy. Is there better stuff- YEAH!!! Paint that rig with multiple heavy coats. But free oil that doesnt mix with water, even when saturated with salt. If you get so much salty snow underneath, you need to wash it off once in a while and reapply oil. It isnt the salt in the oil has magically broken the laws of physics. It has rubbed through the oil and now is in contact with the metal.

The "acid producing crowd" needs to learn some stuff from this group about salt and hydrocarbons:
https://www.insidescience.org/news/molten-salts-could-improve-fuel-economy

There is just so much wrong on so many levels of this.

I feel like mybusters needs a couple another season between this and LED fears.
Click to expand...


Now you have me curious. What are the LED fears?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top