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Oil filter crushed and stuck

jhornsby3

Active Member
Messages
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63
Location
Boise, Idaho
As stated above the filter is stuck on. Broke the filter wrench and crushed the filter housing. Need to get this off so I can get the system flushed of coolant. What would be the best way to get that filter off the block. Dang I'm thinking of going back to the gassers more now.:rolleyes5:


John
 
Sometimes you can get them off with a large enough Channel-Lok if there's room to grip the base where it's thicker/the lip is folded over.

Can also always try poking a screw driver thru the sheet metal filter sides & trying to turn it that way - although I've not had much luck with that. Many/most modern made filters have such thinwall metal that the screw driver generally tears it before the filter turns.
 
Filter housing tore right at the lip. That and the thin metal is so smashed that I would be afraid of it coming off the lip completely. I'm going to remove the adapter from the block and put it in the vise as advised on another forum.

Thanks,

John
 
Can you get enough of the outer tin & crap torn off to then use a punch & tap on the little oil flow holes on the base & turn it off that way?
 
SHARP Chisel on outer rim lip @ base if you can't achieve what Smithfield recommends, it's a K2500 worst case you drop front drive shaft, pull the center nut out of oil filter 4x4 adapter and pull adapter assy, it probably needs new o-rings anyway 36mm or 1-3/8" socket to remove the 4x4 adapter 1-3/8" is a little sloppy fitment
 

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I had good luck using a hammer and blunt screw driver on the rim, a chisel has the tendency to cut trough without moving the rim.
with a screw driver you maintain a bite without cutting trough.
Nowadays I use a narrow 1/4" wide filter wrench with teeth on the jaws.works kind of like a pipe wrench and place that on the filter against the rim.
Haven't had a filter yet that wouldn't budge.
 
Thanks all for the replies.

Got it off. I tried the chisle nothing, then the screw driver. Both just cut the lip around the end. Called a friends and he had, believe it or not, a damaged filter removal tool. It grabs the sheet metal and crushes into it spinning the metal till the filter comes off.

Tried to get the bolt off on the adapter but no go. The socket had too large a lip on the end and the bolt head was just to thin. I have the o-rings and all so that will be done in the near future as it is weeping oil.

Again thanks,

John
 
Gassers leak at this adapter too...

Only 1/4 turn is needed after gasket contact.... Jiffy Lube or dealer with an impact putting that filter on?
 
Glad that you take it off.

What brand of oil filter that is crushed? I hope it is not Fram Orange?

How does damage oil filter wrench looks like?
 
I've never understood why people torque the piss out of oil filters. I do the same as WarWagon, 1/4 turn or so after gasket touches. I've never needed to use a filter wrench to take one off that I put on. Also never had one leak oil or vibrate loose either. Applying some oil on the filter gasket before installation helps a lot with removal later on as well.

Glad to hear you got it off, sounded like you had a huge issue if it didn't come off.
 
Same here. Hand tight was how I was taught. Never had a leak either. It goes on hand tight. And you usually need two hands to remove it. Go figure.
 
Here's my experience with Jiffy Lube. Once, go to change the oil on dad's car and I had to do the screwdriver through the filter housing trick 2 FULL TURNS before it was loose enough to unscrew by hand. Second, get oil changed in my work truck. 50 miles later I get low oil pressure warning. They didn't put the filter on all the way, I pumped it all out driving down the highway.

Gee, any wonder why I do my own vehicles.
 
It was a walmart brand filter. I was running the oil in the truck for a few days to flush the remaining coolant out of the motor from the head gasket issues I've been having. This was the third filter to go on and I put it on just tight enough to feel a little resistance but not over tight. The gasket had come loose from the filter body and was stuck on the mount. All three of the filters had the gasket come off and hang up. I plan on using the STP filters for this go round to flush the system out. I just wanted the cheapest filter seeing as it was only going on for 50 miles or so.

The tool was like the filter wrench that grabs the end of the filter but it ratcheted tight around the end and crushing it more/onto itself. You can then just twist the filter housing till the filter spins off. I should have taken pix of the filter before I tossed it to go out this morning.

We'll see how this round of head gaskets goes. I plan on just taking them down to be skimmed and remove that from the list of could be's. I just want this to go back together and be able to be driven.

John
 
STP and ST are the same filter, unfortunately. Get the cheapest NAPA white filter or the Purolator white, they are well made and cheap, may be cheaper than STP .
 
NAPA here is very spendy. They wanted 5.99 for the cheapest filter. I haven't seen a Purolator filter in years. I'll check around for the next round of flush when I get the heads off and back from the shop. I'll be flushing oil through it two more times before I put the synthetic back in. And she don't like that dyno oil at all. Sounded like a tin can full of marbles when cold.

John
 
Don't get the Napa Gold, which they usually promote. The cheapest one is called Napa ProSelect and it is behind the counter, at least at both Napa that I go to here.

Purolator is usually available at Advance or PepBoys or Sears.
 
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