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NV4500 Swap to a CUCV..Starter problems....Everything else good.

fingers crossed. I am having the alt setup off teh burb looked at tommrow to see if it can be used and then I will move forward with 12v conversion which will solve a few problems. I will miss the 24v start though in the winter..I tell ya, there ain't nothin like it.
 
313$ from Summit and the best part is if it don't fit, Summit has an awesome return policy. Anybody using one ?
Yes, Member Doober and SmithvilleD both have them and love them. Put that with battery cables like Raceday mechanics and it will start.
 
Hmmmmm...Does the rear support(or front) bracket work on these ?
I can ask Doober about that.
Now I really have to look all my starters over to see the universal ones and Auto only.Learn somethin new everyday. Now to just remember it.
 
If you make the nose cone on the starter in the vice look like the other one it should be just fine. Thats what I did. Had the same prob you have....
Bolt the starter up and no crranky.....................
 

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Hmmmmm...Does the rear support(or front) bracket work on these ?
Doober says the powermaster starter works on autos and nv4500[he has a 92- nv4500]. The stock front bracket from a GR starter fits perfect.
 
The starter is the issue.

The stick shift uses a different starter. The aftermarket starters are all designed to work with a stick shift and will work with Both.

The flywheels are compatible all across the 6.2/6.5 line. All years all engines.
Again the stick shift starter will work with anything, the auto trans starter will work only with autos.

Its the nose cone that's different.

Missy

I had a DD starter off my truck which was a factory 700R4 auto, and it worked perfect with the SM465, until a winding shorted somewhere and the starter died.

Also have a GR starter, yet it's a chinese starter(rebuilt with American quality parts), that fits and works perfectly.


Kenny. Sorry i couldn't get pics. It's pitch black out there and my camera batteries are dead. It's on the charger now, but i don't think i'll be able to get a picture tonight.
 
I measured a brand new version of the same 6.5TD flywheel i am using. I got 19/32 for an offset. Barry where were you measuring from ? The 6.2 one was not in yet but they handed me one saying it was it...ohh I opened the box and was like WTF ?? It was way smaller. A call revealed that it belonged to someone else and my 6.2 one would be in tomorrow. Here is a better pic of the GR starter I tried. it did not fit either. Also in the pics is the alt setup I plan to use if I convert to 12v. It's rated at 250 amps.

IN the meantime, The friggin oil pan is leaking like a sieve where the timing case over meets it...:mad2:
I am so ready to cut this MF up for parts. If I gotta do one more thing twice...Mr. Torch is coming out. I have cut trucks up for less aggravation than this wrung out douche is causing me.
 

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Kenny did you use a gasket?

Ditch the gasket and use RTV. That angle in the pan is a tough bitch to get the one piece gasket to seal. I used RTV on mine, the whole 3-4 times i had it down for my rear main/rear pan leak.
 
ON a side note, my 93 had a threaded shiter knob. Was that an older style shifter ? I hate the knob and want a Hurst T handle . for the 4wd lever I want a skull that lights up when the truck is in 4wd...:devil:
 
After the mudbog this weekend when I go down there and wipe the floor with my 155hp...:rof: I am going to get started on the turbo.
 
I measured both off of the clutch side of the flywheel,with a precession straight edge, and subtracted for the difference. The engine side isn't machined at all except for the crank flange.
On a side note, the Luk flywheel and clutch has about 30% less surface area than the GM flywheels and clutch do:eek::WTF:
 
Early 92-94 NV4500 trans have a black round shift knob that is threaded, the later 95+ style ones are a oblong grey knob that is pressed on, as I said in my earlier post.
 
OK, so I measured both a brand new 6.5 flywheel(same brand in my truck) and got 19/32 offset. I measured the brand new 6.2 one...19/32...:???: :WTF:
So I had to pull the oil pan back off and yank the starter anyway so I tried the 6.5 GR one again....:eek:
This time it fit. I guess I was in such a rush the other day I didn't wiggle it in right. The PO of the tranny said it's a tight fit. I put the ground out 24v one back in for now until I do the conversion to 12v but atleast now I know there is nothing wrong with the flywheel. Also Super Duper thanks to Barry(BK) He hooked me up with a flywheel cover and shipped it fast. I was worried about not having it and drowning the truck in mud. It needed a minor repair that I brazed. fit perfect. They are discontinued so I was lucky he had one. I snotted up the oil pan good this time,. I could see where the snot pressed out from lst time and in some spots didn't so the oil pan needed a little straightening by the Timing case cover.
 

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The diesel bellhousings are different from the gasoline bellhousings on an NV4500. A 6.x starter wont fit without relieving some material out of the bellhousing. It will keep your starter from seating properly. I suspect that you have a workable setup but check the clearance between the starter gear and teeth. If its too close it may cause issues over time. 6.5 diesel motors are not supposed to require shimming but some do. If it is out of spec I would try relieving the bellhousing where its hiting.
 
True but that was not my issue here. I used a diesel bellhousing. I have seen guys use a gasser one and cut a triangle out where the nose goes but I did use a diesel bellhousing. Had a bitch getting that stupid flywheel cover in and not hit the flywheel. It was a touched warped and getting it perfectly straight proved to be a PIA. But I got it. There is very very little room for error. So far no oil leaks, everything looks good.
 
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