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nv4500 clutch problem

Do you guys have right thickness clutch plate?.
To thick a clutchplate will bring the diaphram/clutch fingers closer to the flywheel and as a result the fork will pivot further towards the tranny. maybe the slave doesn't have enough travel left to disengage the clutch.
If the master cylinder does not bottom out with the pedal up it can't bleed the air out and refill with fluid.
A master cyl that leaks back under pressure between the piston and tube will impair/shorten the stroke of the slave..
 
Well, i'm still fighting this problem. I tried putting a longer pushrod in and heres how i had to do it and what happened.. i had to take a steering wheel puller bolt it to where the slave cylinder mounts on the bell housing, run it in on the clutch fork, put an extension in the inspection hole on the side of the bellhousing to hold the clutch fork back, backed off the puller unbolted it, hooked the slave up with a longer rod and finally i have release, but because i had to push the clutch fork in, it holds to much pressure on the pressure plate and causes the clutch to slip. i tried different lengths, but the only way i could get it to release was to have the clutch fork pushed in about an inch.

I measured and it would seem that i would need around two inches of travel at the slave cylinder for the clutch to operate correctly, i currently have the transmission pulled and why i have it out i pulled the hydraulic system off the truck to bench bleed it and calculate how much travel i'm getting. Bench bled it and measured the travel, i'm getting one inch of travel.

Also for some reason my clutch fork is putting a groove in the bellhousing right under and across from the pivot ball, like the fork isn't machined correctly but i checked all the autoparts stores and they're all the same specs.

I talked to a guy that did this same exact swap (nv3500 to nv4500) and he didn't have a problem.

The throw out bearing is installed correctly on the clutch fork.

I did verify the plate thicknesses.

I just can't figure this out i've been fooling with this problem for well over a year.
 
Years ago I had a jeep Cherokee similar problem. Changed flywheel, complete clutch, bell housing,throw out fork/bearing, master&slave cylinder. Most 2-3 times. I finally figured out the clutch pedal linkage was bent ever so slightly where it attached to the push rod ( yeah I tried custom length rod as well).

After changing the pedal assembly it worked like a dream for 6 days until the rig was stolen. :banghead:
Thanks to the wife for not listening to me about canceling the full coverage insurance.
 
I'm wondering if there isn't a different combo of slave/master cylinders available to get more stroke. ie diff application
 
Problem resolved. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts weren't torqued enough so the diaphragm fingers never sunk in requiring excessive amount of travel. I noticed this when the guy at Tennessee clutch bolted it down to the flywheel on the clutch testing table. There wasn't any noticeable gap between the pressure plate and flywheel so i never thought of that until i saw how much the diaphragm fingers sunk in when he mounted it. Every time i installed the clutch i torqued it to 30ftlbs as the Haynes manual specified 27-32ftlbs and the flywheel paperwork specified 30-35ftlbs so i torqued it to 35ftlbs this time and what do you know it finally works correctly, this hole time it was 5ftlbs under torqued. I also made the mistake of using the old bolts i definitely should've replaced the bolts with new ones as recommended as the reason i had to use the maximum torques spec was due to the old bolts being stretched as it was. I really appreciate the help folks thanks so much and sorry for my stupidity lol i just hope no one ever makes this stupid mistake like me.
 
Glad you got it solved and big enough to tell the tale. I am sure it will help someone who does something similar and can't figure it out. Thanks.
 
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