Now I understand 6.5L cooling... thanks Heath!

[3500GMC]

I'd be interested in an electric clutch fan also. That and a 88894035 WP should help a 6.5TD big time.

 

[DieselCash]

None that I know of, Schiker - I was referring to the unbalanced flow doubly affecting the passenger side of the block due to the additional heat of the turbine - noone prolly would have noticed if the reduced flow had been to the cooler driver's side - I'd like to see one of the new service replacement pumps, dissect, analyze and compare it - personally, if I was still into the 6.5, I'd shoot for the electric fan clutch that GM uses on several other models - larger versions are used on Cummins, IH, etc - would allow full control from the 'stat and the driver's seat

More info on this electric fan clutch please! Part numbers or make and model numbers of vehicles that use this clutch.

Thanks!

 

[gmctd]

I charge the batt's on my truck once a month, prime the fuel line, fire it up to see if the old thrill is still there - today I re-noticed two things of import, one the CDR configuration, the other relating to the current threads on fan clutches, fans, cooling, etc

The '90's CDR system has been in service since ~1986 in several similar forms, but all configured with the tuna can on the turbo-side valve cover, with an internal pre-coalescing screen like a section of 3M pot-scrubber, rubber hose to metal tubing to the compressor housing, short articulated rubber hose to the compressor inlet - not bad until the first time the intake plenum is opened, then whaddamess!! Even worse, if a charge-air cooler has been added, knowing that mess has also taken up residence in that expensive heat exchanger, and no way to clean it, easily - cheer up, folks: relief is at hand, in two forms

Firstly: the early 6.2L CDR system consisted of an oil filler tube with breather port, an internal splash shield covering the timing train, rubber hose connected to the CDR can, with several other hoses\tubes connecting the CDR to either side of the dual-plane intake plenum - ??????? - remember, there were no production line 6.2L turboDiesel engines produced - so what, you ask, with no attempt at disguising your feigned interest - well, a deja vu event occured back around the middle of the new century: all the current 6.5LTD's rolling off the production line have reverted to that original CDR\CCV system, front-mounted, connected to the oil filler tube rather than the valve-cover - guess what: much less oil in the mist exiting that location, far from the turbine snail - remember: hot oil vaporizes easily.

Now, how did I get to this point from tinkering with my truck today? I recently spent much time with a neighbor's very sick '83 6.2L Suburban with over 300kmi on the clock - in the process of timing chainset, seals, IP, injectors, etc, I upgraded the old beastie to the current CDR configuration, as the old parts were unavailable locally - now, being an educated opportunist with some hidden agenda, I confiscated the old stuff, cleaned it up, and with some mixing of old and new parts, most of the modified '83 front-draft system now resides in my charge-air cooled truck - waiting is the blank turbo-side valve cover, to be installed at some as-yet undisclosed opportunity - we shall see how fares the soggy mess with the '06 CDR configuration if I ever start driving it again - also:

Secondly: the Mann Provent CCV filter\scrubber is a cannister that fits between your CDR and the turbo compressor - it absolutely removes 99% of the oily content from the oily crankcase effluent, sends the scrubbed remainder thru the turbo, the oil precipitates back thru the drain and into the crankcase - good news: it is EPA certified, as FoMoCo has authorized dealer-installation on all Diesel vehicles not so-equipped from the factory - I've been running one on my turbocharged and charge-air cooled Jeep Liberty CRD for over 9mos, and the inlet hose from the CCV is oily, the drain hose is oily, but the hose to the turbo inlet plenum is dry - try it, you'll like it

Nextly, and lastly: I have also been considering reverting the engine back to the serp belt configuration, having all the associated parts stashed away for posteriority's sake (this would also involve a new very large air-dam front bumper to alleviate engine-bay turbulence created by the Dana60 front-axle) - again, the thought crossed my mind to look into the electric clutch used on the high-end Tahoe's and such - they can be found on eBay every so often, and are available on-line and from Mr Goodparts - they attach to the waterpump, but have a stabilizing harness bracket and wires attached which connect to the engine harness - I have pics and maybe a pn somewhere on this PC - if I can find them and remember how to post pics, I will do so - I'm thinking the only hassle may be the larger diameter shaft in the 6.5L waterpump, but that ain't no hill fer a stepper.........................

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

I charge the batt's on my truck once a month, prime the fuel line, fire it up to see if the old thrill is still there

Well?............oke:

I confiscated the old stuff, cleaned it up, and with some mixing of old and new parts, most of the modified '83 front-draft system now resides in my charge-air cooled truck - waiting is the blank turbo-side valve cover, to be installed at some as-yet undisclosed opportunity - we shall see how fares the soggy mess with the '06 CDR configuration if I ever start driving it again - also:

So the old CDR setup "can't" be had - Only way is to find one "used?"

I have also been considering reverting the engine back to the serp belt configuration, having all the associated parts stashed away for posteriority's sake (this would also involve a new very large air-dam front bumper to alleviate engine-bay turbulence created by the Dana60 front-axle)

Why the V belt setup in the first place? What was the advantage over the serp....and if there is an advantage, why are you switching back?

So the stock duct work running thru the fender to the turbo, is not sufficient?...or does not exist? Where does your CAC take air from?.........and the electric fan clutch mod sounds like it should be conquered "just because" it addreses cooling issues for all dinosaur driving 6.5ers..(and who better to spearhead, document and solve yet another 6.5TD issue/upgrade :deal..and it would just be "Cool".

Sounds like a plan - I think you should get to work right away! :nana: :banana:


Thanks,

 

[gmctd]

'06's come from the factory with the '83 CCV\CDR configuration already-been-adapted for turbo mode, so the current parts are available new (as well as the lucky used '83 find), and should be falling into the boneyards any moment, now: filler tube, timing trainset splash-shield, re-configured tuna can, and any and all appropriate hosing

At hiway speeds the ground-flow beneath the old-series truck is disturbed by the Dana60 front axle, deflecting upward and creating pressure in the engine bay - higher pressure than forward motion and the cooling fan creates thru the radiator, resulting in increasing ECT's - always gotta slow down to get the temps back down to normal - has always been a real problem amongst all those '74-'91 4wd chassis, even moreso for the big block series - the later serp belt series have an equally problematical problem due to the clustering of the accessories, idlers, tensioners, etc, immediately behind the fan and directly in the propwash zone - 'nuther words, airflow has just as much difficulty getting past the engine and out of the bay as the older 4wd trucks, but the propwash path is not nearly as cluttered in the v-belted series - so, I punted, opting for that less-cluttered v-belt configuration - seemed to work, but had not tried the serp for comparison, so who knows??????????? (the Shadow do..........)

 

[gmctd]

Lo, and behold! Speak of the devil, and angels appear - saw Missy Good Wench's handle in another thread, popped over there, and there she is, describing the mechanics of installing the electric fan clutch on her 6.5 waterpump - just remember to use a spacer-block on the impeller side of the shaft when pressing the appropriate flange onto the shaft, or you'll displace the bearing and seals, or, worse case, break the cast-iron impeller, or both - new waterpump and start all over, in any case - I remember discussing this with her back when I was losing interest in the 6.5 scene, having gotten heavy into the Dodge Cummins world - if you have not, y'all pop over there and see what she has to say - very interesting, as usual.............

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

She's got a finished product all figured out - problem is her setup seems a little pricey..."10Benz"

I would think using a GM clutch and cutting a few steps out might produce a user friendly, cost effective option, as opposed to "droppin a G note"....(feel me yo)....*maybe not*

*Only the Nose, Knows*

 

[gmctd]

The GM elect fan clutch is also a Horton unit, iirc - been a while since it crossed my mind, nearly 3yrs, now - but, also, iirc, the hub\shaft dia was the main ? at that time, too - looks like she followed thru, where I just Dodged it.............

 

[treegump]

Can Heath's article be found anywhere where I can print it out? I like to have instructions close by when I tear stuff apart....and I'm too lazy to read it online.

 

[Odlaw]

The '90's CDR system has been in service since ~1986 in several similar forms, but all configured with the tuna can on the turbo-side valve cover, with an internal pre-coalescing screen like a section of 3M pot-scrubber, rubber hose to metal tubing to the compressor housing, short articulated rubber hose to the compressor inlet - not bad until the first time the intake plenum is opened, then whaddamess!! Even worse, if a charge-air cooler has been added, knowing that mess has also taken up residence in that expensive heat exchanger, and no way to clean it, easily - cheer up, folks: relief is at hand, in two forms

Firstly: the early 6.2L CDR system consisted of an oil filler tube with breather port, an internal splash shield covering the timing train, rubber hose connected to the CDR can, with several other hoses\tubes connecting the CDR to either side of the dual-plane intake plenum - ??????? - remember, there were no production line 6.2L turboDiesel engines produced - so what, you ask, with no attempt at disguising your feigned interest - well, a deja vu event occured back around the middle of the new century: all the current 6.5LTD's rolling off the production line have reverted to that original CDR\CCV system, front-mounted, connected to the oil filler tube rather than the valve-cover - guess what: much less oil in the mist exiting that location, far from the turbine snail - remember: hot oil vaporizes easily.

Now, how did I get to this point from tinkering with my truck today? I recently spent much time with a neighbor's very sick '83 6.2L Suburban with over 300kmi on the clock - in the process of timing chainset, seals, IP, injectors, etc, I upgraded the old beastie to the current CDR configuration, as the old parts were unavailable locally - now, being an educated opportunist with some hidden agenda, I confiscated the old stuff, cleaned it up, and with some mixing of old and new parts, most of the modified '83 front-draft system now resides in my charge-air cooled truck - waiting is the blank turbo-side valve cover, to be installed at some as-yet undisclosed opportunity - we shall see how fares the soggy mess with the '06 CDR configuration if I ever start driving it again - also:

Secondly: the Mann Provent CCV filter\scrubber is a cannister that fits between your CDR and the turbo compressor - it absolutely removes 99% of the oily content from the oily crankcase effluent, sends the scrubbed remainder thru the turbo, the oil precipitates back thru the drain and into the crankcase - good news: it is EPA certified, as FoMoCo has authorized dealer-installation on all Diesel vehicles not so-equipped from the factory - I've been running one on my turbocharged and charge-air cooled Jeep Liberty CRD for over 9mos, and the inlet hose from the CCV is oily, the drain hose is oily, but the hose to the turbo inlet plenum is dry - try it, you'll like it

:nopics: I'm interested!

 

[buddy]

:nopics: I'm interested!

How did the cooling thread become about CDRs?

Anyway, I was thinking the exact same as gmctd about where to pull the vapor from and you can see my simple solution on THIS OTHER THREAD ABOUT CDR

 

[Big T]

I'd be interested in an electric clutch fan also. That and a 88894035 WP should help a 6.5TD big time.

Rockauto shows a 88894036 WP for '97 Model K2500 Suburban at $146. Is there a difference between the two? Aside from the fan clutch and gasket, does the Heath Kit have anything else in it to get you to his $589 price?

Steve

 

[buddy]

The 97 and the 2000 model year water pumps are different. They switched to the spin on fan as well. They started introducing the new water pump late in 99 models though.

There is a difference in flow properties according to what Heath said in the article.

 

[cskemps]

Well i did this up grade from Heath. And what a difference it made. Hauling a 13,000 lbs trailer and load my truck used to run over 100 deg.. Pulled a load of 30,000 lbs adn it didn't even get up to a 100 deg. Well worth the money.:thumbsup:

 

[Big T]

OK I checked the 2000 model water pumps at Rockauto:

ACDELCO Part # 251603

2000 GMC K2500 PICKUP 6.5L 395cid V8 DIESEL FI Turbo (F) : Cooling System : Water Pump Price Core Total
EASTERN INDUSTRIES Part # 181559

$79.79 $0.00 $79.79
A-1 CARDONE Part # 58552 {Reman. Includes Gasket}

$86.79 $5.00 $91.79
CARDONE SELECT Part # 5511411 {New; Includes Gasket}

$132.89 $0.00 $132.89
ACDELCO Part # 252776 {#88926290}
PUMP KIT,WAT EXTENDED CAB; 4 WHEEL DRIVE
PUMP KIT,WAT REGULAR CAB; 4 WHEEL DRIVE
PUMP KIT,WAT CREW CAB; 4 WHEEL DRIVE

$148.79 $0.00 $148.79
BOSCH Part # 99159
w/Pressed On Pulley For Thread On Fan Clutch; OE REPLACEMENT
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 4 business days

$104.79 $0.00 $104.79

ACDELCO Part # 251603 {replaces 88894035 #12456231, 19168609, 88894035}
PUMP KIT,WAT W/GSKT, PULLEY
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 5 business days

$220.79 $0.00 $220.79

It would appear the last one highlighted in bold is the part. However, above that it suggests there's a different pump for 4wd which I've got. It also implies that you need a thread on fan clutch. If I need the last pump plus the fan clutch, then there's not much price break than buying it all from Heath.

Steve

 

[Turbine Doc]

Well i did this up grade from Heath. And what a difference it made. Hauling a 13,000 lbs trailer and load my truck used to run over 100 deg.. Pulled a load of 30,000 lbs adn it didn't even get up to a 100 deg. Well worth the money.:thumbsup:

Threw me for a sec, you must mean 100C,

 

[buddy]

Its about $35 less at the vendor that shall remain nameless but will cost $10-20 more in shipping, so its kind of a bust. Although they came out with the Severe Duty fan too, whatever that is.

 

[cskemps]

Yep i ment 100 deg. Celcius. The last time i pulled my trailer before i put in this up grade from Heath it was only 12 deg. Celcius and it ran around 110 deg. Celcius. Since i have pulled 30000 lbs in 28 degree C and it didn't even get up to 100.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Its about $35 less at the vendor that shall remain nameless but will cost $10-20 more in shipping, so its kind of a bust. Although they came out with the Severe Duty fan too, whatever that is.

I doubt rockauto will help you at all if you get into problems half way through your install either!

 

[Turbine Doc]

One RA & SSD isn't exactly same as one Heath sells either looks same, carries same pn on outside, but fluid in it ain't same as rest of them