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No start

Will L. said:
Unless you are going testing and not letting us know results, it seems you are missing lots of steps before spending descent money.
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It started some time back. It would die like you turn the key off. Once it rev up an down. I shut it off it started rite up. A few weeks later the volt meter went way down it started revving up an down. I went in for the night. Next morning I went to start it it revved up to red line an shut off. Blow the fsc fuse but it's working now. I'm still not getting fuel to the injectors. ? I'm lost
 
I only took the intake off just to get a good view of the lines an wireing it's going back on. The passenger rear grounds look a little nasty gonna fix that.
 
Ok got everything back on. The red wire going on the omg was pulled out a little. Now code 29 glow plug. And still no fuel to the injectors
 
Franklin said:
Batters are bad, it will turn over with a charger but no start. Is it just not getting the rite volts or amps? Is why it won't start.
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Did you ever get good batteries on the thing? 100 RPM Minimum cold and 150 RPM Minimum hot to start this engine. That gasoline engine can just squeak over and the spark plug firing gets you going. Diesels won't squeak over and start even with the "engine destruction in a can" of ether.

A battery charger will be slapped around by the 10 HP starter and the Minimum RPM isn't going to happen. Bad batteries will not allow jump starting to work - been there done that and FAILED. One good battery and on a warm day maybe it will start.

Next would be verifying fuel flow from the lift pump. Running out of fuel these IP's do weird things.

Electronics do weird things with bad batteries, cables, and grounds.
 
Franklin said:
I'm sorry omg. Lol I ment pmd
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That's ok, omg and pmd are usually said and mean the same thing!

Yes, remove and clean ALL grounds to the engine.

You need to test how long it takes to pump 1 qt. Of fuel out of the filter from the lift pump. Also testing that with a pressure gauge. The volume test can be done through the water drain for ffm.

You need to replace the 1/4" x 4" long diameter fuel line that comes out of the injector pump with some clear tubing- hardware stores sell it by the foot for less than $1.00. Try to start and see if fuel is going through it. See if there are lots of bubbles traveling with it (posting a video if there are any would be good)

After these things, let us know the results. Then move forward. DO NOT TOUCH the optic sensor yet. Start messing with other things and you can really screw the pooch.
 
No haven't got any batteries yeat. My glow plug Celanoid. i was cleaning thos terminals and the pos side twisted no more glow. It's turning pretty fast. I'm getting very little fuel at #1 basikley it's just wet. Nothing at number 3 dry as a bone.
 
Franklin said:
No haven't got any batteries yeat. My glow plug Celanoid. i was cleaning thos terminals and the pos side twisted no more glow. It's turning pretty fast. I'm getting very little fuel at #1 basikley it's just wet. Nothing at number 3 dry as a bone.. I have about a 4 to 5 inch of fuel comeing out of the filter..
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That revving up and down on its own and then dying sure sounds an awful lot like an Injection Pump on its last legs. And again, DO NOT USE THE GLOW PLUGS WHILE HOOKED UP TO A BATTERY CHARGER, YOU WILL BURN THEM OUT. Glow plugs are designed to run on battery voltage of 11.5 to 12.8 Volts prior to cranking. A battery charger puts out 14.0 to 15.5 Volts depending on the setting and that over voltage burns out glow plugs just like putting a two battery flashlight bulb in a four battery flashlight will fry the bulb.
 
Husker6.5 said:
That revving up and down on its own and then dying sure sounds an awful lot like an Injection Pump on its last legs. And again, DO NOT USE THE GLOW PLUGS WHILE HOOKED UP TO A BATTERY CHARGER, YOU WILL BURN THEM OUT. Glow plugs are designed to run on battery voltage of 11.5 to 12.8 Volts prior to cranking. A battery charger puts out 14.0 to 15.5 Volts depending on the setting and that over voltage burns out glow plugs just like putting a two battery flashlight bulb in a four battery flashlight will fry the bulb.
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Thanks I'm leaning to the umyself
Husker6.5 said:
That revving up and down on its own and then dying sure sounds an awful lot like an Injection Pump on its last legs. And again, DO NOT USE THE GLOW PLUGS WHILE HOOKED UP TO A BATTERY CHARGER, YOU WILL BURN THEM OUT. Glow plugs are designed to run on battery voltage of 11.5 to 12.8 Volts prior to cranking. A battery charger puts out 14.0 to 15.5 Volts depending on the setting and that over voltage burns out glow plugs just like putting a two battery flashlight bulb in a four battery flashlight will fry the bulb.
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Oh what do you think about the optical cincer??
 
Do not get side tracked or you are spending good money and still have a truck that doesn't start or run worth a damn. New parts don't mean good parts so you can cause additional problems by replacing "working" parts with defective new parts. Ruining out of fuel gives the optical sensor foam and screws up it's readings. Removing the sensor is asking for trouble unless your are 1000% it's bad. Clearly we are not at that step so the best advice is to leave it alone. Troubleshoot it rather than throw expensive parts and hope at it.

Test the old batteries separated from each other. Parts stores can do this for free. Simply put bad batteries need to be the first thing corrected and make sure they are indeed bad before dropping coin on them. Depending on age replace them in pairs. First year you can get away with warranty of one, otherwise, the older battery pulls down the new one and ruins them both quicker.

Air. Air in the fuel system is the first thing in the GM manual for fixing these diesels. Grounds are #2. @Will L. advice above for the clear return line and lift pump test is sound. I check lift pump pressure at every oil change (2500 miles: severe duty) and others run a dedicated fuel pressure gauge. Yes, it's that important.
 
WarWagon said:
Do not get side tracked or you are spending good money and still have a truck that doesn't start or run worth a damn. New parts don't mean good parts so you can cause additional problems by replacing "working" parts with defective new parts. Ruining out of fuel gives the optical sensor foam and screws up it's readings. Removing the sensor is asking for trouble unless your are 1000% it's bad. Clearly we are not at that step so the best advice is to leave it alone. Troubleshoot it rather than throw expensive parts and hope at it.

Test the old batteries separated from each other. Parts stores can do this for free. Simply put bad batteries need to be the first thing corrected and make sure they are indeed bad before dropping coin on them. Depending on age replace them in pairs. First year you can get away with warranty of one, otherwise, the older battery pulls down the new one and ruins them both quicker.

Air. Air in the fuel system is the first thing in the GM manual for fixing these diesels. Grounds are #2. @Will L. advice above for the clear return line and lift pump test is sound. I check lift pump pressure at every oil change (2500 miles: severe duty) and others run a dedicated fuel pressure gauge. Yes, it's that important.
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? How do you know if you have a bad optical sencer?
 
Franklin said:
? How do you know if you have a bad optical sencer?
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There should be an Optical Sensor code or the IP is not functioning.

However, non functioning IP can be caused by other components of the IP not just the OS. I wished it is that simple.

Optical is the fancy word for glass/mirror.
Yes, it is a mirror that can go bad due to cloudy/unclear fuel contamination.
 
O
JMJNet said:
There should be an Optical Sensor code or the IP is not functioning.

However, non functioning IP can be caused by other components of the IP not just the OS. I wished it is that simple.

Optical is the fancy word for glass/mirror.
Yes, it is a mirror that can go bad due to cloudy/unclear fuel contamination.[/QUOTE ok, I just put "two new batteries" on yesterday, it's getting good fuel to the filter. But I'm still not getting any to the injectors. #1an3 are just a little wet. #1 looks a little bubbley. I only tryd one know good pmd. But still nothing. All the grounds are good.. what next new ip??
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A Video of this engine spinning over would be helpful to verify it's cranking speed by ear.

Next is to make sure you are getting air free fuel. No fuel or air in fuel means a new IP won't work either. You can vapor lock a diesel - I have from a kinked hose softened by biodiesel. Plugged fuel filters (and tank sock) even from cold fuel waxing is possible. That clear IP return line to check for air needs to be on NOW! You can't compress fuel, but, you can compress air meaning you get compressed air vs x number of high pressure CC's of fuel pushed out the injector. AIR IN THE FUEL LINES IS BAD!!!

From the technical reference library:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forums/6-2-and-6-5-technical-reference-library.218/

I have a lift pump graveyard so making sure the OPS and lift pump work is critical.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/lift-pumps-ops-operation-and-troubleshooting.6872/

Then to test out the PMD there is a gem here on Cal resistors in the link below. Tells you how to verify the Trons (electronics) are working. It will make one's head explode and perhaps subbed out to an automotive electronics shop or place familiar with the 6.5 TD engine. Sometimes a couple hours labor is cheaper than a new IP.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-5-db2-5-7l-info-online-from-stanadyne.26581/

You can swap known good parts in and out from a friends truck, but, a real risk you wind up with two INOP rigs.
 
For reference here is a 6.2 spinning over at full speed. Nevermind the later found sticking injectors causing the hit and miss starter busting experience.

 
I do have a fuel leak on top of the tank. I noticed a little puddle under the truck. Can that couse a no start. I put the clear line on the fuel return. I don't see any air..
 
Franklin said:
The codes I'm getting. Is 22 25 63.
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Do these immediately come back when cleared? These are a symptom of other problems as I feel your tank leak is more important to fix first (AIR) for the no-start condition.

DTC 22 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Low
DTC 25 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit High
DTC 63 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit High

This has grounds, that you cleaned up, or positive battery cables needing attention. Otherwise you are looking at the accelerator pedal position sensor needing replaced or ECM needing replaced. Wiring is a very real possibility with the age of our trucks. The way to verify what is going on is checking voltages and or using the http://leroydiesel.com/products/gmtd-scan-tool-software/ GMTD SCAN TOOL SOFTWARE.

You won't see a "noisy" worn out sensor tripping the ECM with a voltmeter, but, it will eliminate shorts and open wires/sensor.

Franklin said:
I do have a fuel leak on top of the tank. I noticed a little puddle under the truck. Can that couse a no start. I put the clear line on the fuel return. I don't see any air..
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Did the return line fill up with fuel? Do you have fuel flow at the water drain when you jump the lift pump "on"?

Any air leaks, even on the return side, will allow air to enter the system that needs to be purged out. This purging results in long crank times or no start conditions. Note 30 seconds then wait 2 min for the starter to cool. Otherwise it starts to melt down.

It's known for the pickup assembly on top of the tank to rust out giving you a pinhole on the lines. The fuel leak means a massive air leak. It could be on the return side, but, if it's the suction side you may not be getting fuel at all. The tank needs to be dropped, or bed removed, to figure out why there is a fuel leak. Hint: drain as much fuel out of the tank as you can before dropping the tank.

You can try to feed the lift pump from a 5 gal can of diesel bypassing the tank to see if that helps. This will narrow down the problem areas.
 
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