• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

No start 95 S

I leave the lift pump, with a jumper wire, on when cranking or sitting between attempts. Sounds like the OPS died on you.

Then perhaps you have a secondary problem of not enough heat via bad glows or not enough cranking RPM. Does it sound like it's cranking slower than normal? Yes, then you need to charge batteries or fix the starter and related wiring. IMO jump starting is near impossible on flat batteries.
 
Cranking rpm was good. Had batteries hooked to charger and had not run them completely dead.

It was warm enough today that glows wouldn't have made much difference. Plus when it died the motor was still hot after running 4 hours and only cut off for 10 min.

If you read AK diesel's post, the lift pump doesn't run until you have oil pressure in a 95.
 
I'm now setting at the computer where I can type instead of playing around with the phone. So I'm going to restate what has occurred to now.

Last Monday when it was 0F outside the glows worked fine and truck started without being plugged in. At the time this happened it was in the mid-upper 40's that night, mid 30's the next morning and low 50's today.

Was driving at interstate speed for 4 hours. Pulled into a truckstop to sleep. It was raining so I parked close to the building to use the facilities. When I came out (5-10 min outside temps mid to upper 40s) and started the truck it started immediately and ran long enough to back a truck length out of the space. Then it cut off and would not restart.

I attempted to restart until I thought I had 1 more attempt to start. I decided to let the truck roll out of the way and try the last attempt in daylight, when hopefully it wasn't raining, and I could move the PMD from behind the bumper to the pump and make sure the cable hadn't gone bad. No change with PMD at pump. At best during all of this cranking I got a slight fire out of maybe 1 cylinder. Had a service truck come out and continued to attempt starting hooked with cables. Good starter speed. Borrowed a 3/4 wrench and cracked a couple injector lines, had a little fuel come out. They had a mechanic who was familiar with the 6.5 but he wouldn't be able to work on it unitl tomorrow.

Get truck towed back to house.

Hooked new Stanadyne PMD direct to pump. No Change.

With charger on batteries, run direct power line to lift pump. Fuel comes out bleeder on filter manager. Fuel comes out of the T-drain at the rate of ~16oz in 40 sec.

Cranked and got fuel signs at the injectors.

Installed clear line in injector return line, have no bubbles visible in line. After ~24 crank attempts (point batteries started to need charge) only got about 3 inches of fuel in return line.

After bleeding lines cranking resulted in an occasional week attempt for a cylinder to fire. Very slight amount of black smoke produced at exhaust, not enough to see from drivers seat had to have someone watch.

Tomorrow I'll try to dig up my fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure.
Pull codes, I"d been getting some intermittent check engine lights. Previous owner had installed a Humvee intake and removed EGM, disconnected Baro sensor, and something else I think. Wish my brick wasn't dead.
 
if it was white smoke and no start it would be raw fuel.
wish you were closer. i would work on it with you.
 
I know but it is so nice to just be able to read the numbers plus having the rudimentary diagnostic capabilities the brick had.

At this point wondering if the fuel stop solenoid is dead or dying.
 
Can you do a video of it cranking- trying to start?

I dont think fuel shut off solenoid, usually they are on or off.
 
packratt said:
Glows were supposed to be fairly new. It started when it was 0 outside currently 50s. Engine was hot when first no start
Click to expand...

New does not mean good.

What brand are the glow plugs? I'd test each glow plug for continuity with the wire unhooked. You can check a wire for voltage.

If the glow plugs are burnt off, you may have a bigger issue.

You will still want to do the dual lift pump relay upgrade or buy Leroys for a 95 and older 6.5.

If you need glow plugs, I would use only AC Delco 60G or Bosch Duraterms
 
My fuel pressure/vacuum gauge is out of state with my timing light and dwell meter. Didn't take time this morning to get another. Had to take advantage of break in rain.

Blew out return line.

Loosened fuel solenoid. Got more smoke on cranking but seemed like still too little smoke. I think I have an old pump around. I'll swap solenoids.

Pulled codes
13-29-31-32-33-41-44-45-59-57-84-99

Don't know how old some of these are. Been getting an intermittent cell for the 2 months I've had truck. Wouldn't trust codes after 45 think I got off count.

Cleared codes. After cranking a couple times just got the egr codes.
 
If I were there helping you I would grab a can of wd40 and take the top hat off and spray while cranking, this will not harm the motor as it's oil not like either.... If still it doesn't fire something else is wrong...

I don't mean spray a little squirt, I mean spray the mist the whole time while cranking, if it does fire you can sort of keep spraying to keep it running...
 
Glows tested out fine for continuity and voltage.

Tried the WD still didn't fire but got more smoke. It did come close a couple times.

Just plugged the block heater in, don't know if it works, and am going for fuel pressure gauge.
 
I should have known better than to listen to the guy behind the counter at autozone and get their loaner tool. It wouldn't read any pressure, probably because there was nothing on the gauge side to depress the schrader valve in the adapter to allow fuel to get to the gauge. Got one coming into NAPA tomorrow.

I did get a can of WD40 that actually puts out a spray instead of a stream.

Swapped the solenoid from the pump I pulled off my K3500 when I replaced the motor. Applied liberal WD while cranking. Got plenty of smoke but it never hit off for more than a couple hits. Did notice a bunch of bubbles in the return line whenever it would hit.

Jrsavoire I likely will get the relay upgrade at some point. Right now I need to get it running.

Have the batteries charging now. Supposed to be around 60 tomorrow. If its not raining after work tomorrow afternoon I'll try again.
 
Just had a thought on the bubbles.

The clear line was about 50/50 fuel and air before cranking. The motor shook pretty good when it started to fire so the shaking may have caused the bubbles and not additional air in system.

With all of the cranking I have done, the return line has never filled with fuel.
 
Have you verified you get fuel at the inlet of the IP? The hose is on top of the IP thus easy to get to and test. Maybe a clogged fuel filter or kinked hose between the IP and FFM thus the water drain reads good but the IP is still starving for fuel.

Does your fuel smell like gasoline?

Not lighting off on WD 40 has me concerned. Again Cranking RPM low or something else like loss of compression.

I feel you should have some flow in the return line while cranking otherwise the IP is air locked or having other problems. I am not clear on how the DS4 handles fuel return during "Cold Advance" but I suggest that a DB2 returns less fuel when cold as it blocks most of the fuel return to increase housing pressure and this advances the timing. (This action makes priming and air purge harder so one should leave the cold advance wire off till it's primed.) At idle A DB2 flows a lot of fuel when the engine is hot vs. very little when cold. I can see the bubbles in the slow moving fuel when "cold advance" is on, but, when it's off I can't see any in the fast moving fuel in the clear return line.

I am not sure I am clearly explaining "why" I jumper and leave the lift pump on when starting a troublesome diesel. I recommend this for starting and troubleshooting purposes only. OEM or Walbro pumps are not bothered by this. (Some High Performance pumps can overheat ruining shaft seals or fuel cooled motors cook off.)

Without a working lift pump and PSI at the inlet of my IP my 1995 DS4 would flat quit. Usually within 5 seconds of lift pump failure. You can, in fact, vapor lock a diesel. For years I overlooked a kinked hose softened by biodiesel and later lift pump failures still stalled the engine.

I suggest one jumpers the lift pump "on" when trying to start a troublesome diesel. This eliminates the entire troubleshooting of the thing: ops, relay, and giving a damn when it should and should not run, etc. Simply sidestep: Does your year use the ECM, OPS, Crank relay, or any combo of GM's "cheap as possible. Improved later due to warranty claims while experimenting with low reliability on the public". In the case of crank relay/fuse failure: It takes a lot of the 30 second window to raise oil pressure off the starter and get the OPS to turn a lift pump on and the IP is sucking air or diesel vapor without the lift pump running. Any part of the lift pump system having trouble: who cares if the pump is jumped on and running with fuel movement at the water drain. It also helps with any air leaks. If I have fuel PSI at the water drain I can troubleshoot the lift pump operation later as needed. There is an entire long thread on this and IMO it's not the # 1 concern till the engine is running.
 
Last edited:
I do the same as Warwagon. I use a fused jumper with toggle switch. That way I can turn it off without disconnecting it.

Have you checked for voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid?

I run the IP return line to a container and leaving the lift pump running, turn the key to run. This should open the fuel shut off solenoid and produce a trickle of fuel out the return line. At least it does on all mine that I have done this on - not positive it is supposed to. Hopefully somebody will verify this.

Do you have a battery load tester available? It's a pain, but I have load tested the batteries at the starter connection. Just have to be careful in there. It's easy to short something.

On my thread about the 1994 K3500 from a couple of Christmases ago. I have links for how to test the PMD plug.

On my 94 I had good voltages at all the pins. But the return pin was not getting voltage back to the IP until I tried yet another extension cable. That cable made connection and the truck started right up.

I had gone through everything twice and was back to the PMD again. I tried several PMD extension harnesses and PMD's.

I have been changing my wiring harnesses out as I work on different vehicles. All of my harnesses area little worse for wear.

It could possibly be the harness that would plug into the PMD on the IP and now plugs into your extension harness.

If you have the optic sensor filter harness, it can be removed, thrown away and that plug then goes directly to the IP.

Might check for continuity to the IP ground and the ground by the heater blower. I have seen the stud with all the grounds at the back of the engine lose continuity. I run a 10 gauge wire directly to that stud.

As long as you are at it adding the extra grounds will not hurt anything and there is a slim possibility it could help.

The kind of thing I do, to take a break from pounding my head on the wall trying to figure something out sometimes.

Other grounds I add direct from the battery are to the frame by the starter, the IP, the pmd heat sink, the heater blower ground to the dash mount bolt - just inches away and the battery box bolt under the passenger side battery.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top