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No Start 6.5

J

jbone1220

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Pegram
Alright so I'm new to this only started on it cause my truck won't start so here we go.
Alright so where I live it go down to the 10s in temperature so I would plug my truck up to my house to get the block warm all night. So I went out in the morning and tried starting it to go to work. I cycled my glow plugs 2 timed and tried starting it my truck. The truck was making compression (it still has compression). And I stayed trying to start my truck for over 30 seconds it was black smoking and trying to make power then it just quit black smoking and it turns out no fuel was going into it. So 3 days later I found out the outlet I was plugging my truck to up was bad. So I started diagnosing my truck. No fuses were blown. Power ground and pcm signal is going in and out pmd. So I got my wrench and broke loose the fuel lines on the injectors and tried to turn it over. No fuel came out of the lines just like I suspected. So then I took the upper intake off and unplugged the fuel shutoff solenoid. I then tried to start it. What do you know after the 2nd time of me tring to start it it started to get fuel and attempted to start again. It start for a half or 1 second and then shutoff. So then I assumed there is air in the lines so I would put 12 volts to the fuel solenoid to bleed it out The air. I have my test light from work and a long wire to make a ground. I unplugged the pmd for ease of access because my pmd is already relocated. I back probed the power wire to the fuel pump from my test light off the positive post to the battery and it instantly lit up without me making a ground so I then got my voltmeter/ohmmeter on the fuel solenoid off the connections it's was reading at 1.3 ohms. I then moved one lead to the block of the motor it read 0.5 ohms so I then assumed the motor is short to ground and It no longer works. So I told the story to the old mechanic at my work and what I believe it is and everything I did and he said there is air in the lines so that's why it doesn't work and I asked someone else and they said it was the fuel shutoff switch because a short to ground would make the pump stay on and it wouldn't be a bad thing.

So my question is can anyone help me?is it the fuel shutoff solenoid or the air in the lines or the injector pump solenoid?
 
First thing is what rpm is it cranking at? Too slow and it will never start, even if everything else is perfect.

A couple things from what you wrote: "So 3 days later I found out the outlet I was plugging my truck to up was bad. So I started diagnosing my truck." If plugging in the block heater trips a breaker, the cord or heater COULD be bad. But if the house oulet is not working, then did you try plugging an extension cord into a different receptical for the block heater?

"So then I assumed there is air in the lines so I would put 12 volts to the fuel solenoid to bleed it out The air." No. That does not bleed out the air. Crack open the injector nuts and crank the engine over. When the fuel starts coming out in constant pattern snug the nuts one at a time while engine is cranking. The air must go through the ip (injection pump) and out the lines exiting before the injectors.

Get a 6" long piece of 1/4" diameter clear flexable tubing from a hardware store. Replace the ip return line with it. It comes out the front of the ip If when cranking or running you see a stream of bubbles flowing, you have air in the lines. (1 trapped by bubble is normal). If you have this You must find the source and seal it- usually where a rubber hose connects to a metal line, or the ffm (fuel filter manager).

The fuel solenoid sounds like a problem to me if when you bypassed it, it started working.

If your exhaust smoke is black While cranking it should be ready to start. Usually too cold will give you white to grey smoke.

Do you know what glowplugs you have? Cycling the key with non self regulating plugs can cause severe damage. They can swell and even brake off inside the cylinder. AC Delco 60G or bosch duraterm 80034 are the only self regulated ones I know of.

After the fuel solenoid and clear return line install, if it is still hard starting I would consider pulling the glow plugs to crank engine with them out until there is a mist of fuel coming out of the cylinders.
 
Don't assume: it gets expensive quick with zero results.

It's cold out and this is a time that water freezes and diesel fuel gels. Any restriction like gelled fuel at the tank sock can vaporize diesel fuel in the vacuum the rotary pump in the IP will generate against a restriction of any kind. The advice above for a clear return line is a good air test. Just be aware of a restriction being able to vapor lock a diesel engine with the same symptoms of air. IMO the best tool is a pressure vacuum gauge connected to the water drain on the FFM. Make sure the lift pump is generating PSI and when the engine cranking it maintains PSI. Possible your fuel filter is clogged with gelled diesel compounded by a bad fuel heater.

The air bleed is on top of the fuel filter. Generally turning on the lift pump and having fuel come out here is all the air bleeding you need to do. You only need to do this if you changed the fuel filter or run out of fuel. Exceptions are gelling for one.

"unplugged the fuel shutoff solenoid" - Well this is going to leave the fuel shut off: SHUT OFF! The Solenoid needs 12v to open and allow fuel to pass through. (Unlike a completely different engine like Cummins that will run without power and 12v kills it.)

The above said the first thing you need to do is get a vacuum pressure gauge on the fuel filter. (It MUST read both pressure and vacuum as 0 PSI can be a vacuum and you won't be able to know and find the restriction.)

Charge your batteries up. Unless you like changing starters 30 second of cranking and then give it up for a full 2 min. If you don't you will melt the 10 HP starter down period. To be clear at this point it's not right and no amount of cranking is going to get it to fire - it will just waste the batteries and starter. Wanting to run is not running and until the situation changes will get the same results.

100 RPM cold and 150 RPM hot. You can hear the speed of your engine cranking. Did it slow down? If it did slow down cranking that is a MAJOR problem. Disconnect grounds then individually test batteries. The starter can loose 1 of 4 brushes and still spin at reduced "I won't start" speed. This isn't a gas engine that will fire barley turning over. It needs to crank at full speed to even have a hope of firing off even with white hot glow plugs.
 
Thank you war wagon for telling what the fuel shutoff soleniod actually does I really appriciate that called stanadyne and they said the connections inside the pump normally and told me it'll be like 1045 to overhaul it. But everything about the lift pump and glow plugs they are fine the block warmer isn't bad or nothing the pump just failed.
But will l have you seen the movie Billy Madison where he give the speech at the end and principle says he made everyone in the room a little more retarded... yea I was asking for help for someone that knew the system not to be a dick about it and I like how you tried to sell me parts at the end there
 
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