I've read about these symptoms and 100 things could be the culprit. Albeit, I've had good luck getting my truck fixed when I get suggestions here. So here it goes 2000 6.5 Engine starts right up, no smoke. Idles very high. Idles so rough it broke a motor mount. Can't maintain any rpm with accelerator, sometimes when I push the accelerator it runs away. Has 130k, factory replaced ip around 90k. I had 2 problems shortly before this started. First the crank pulley failed gave it a vibration and broke the PMD relocation cable. Replaced both ran 1000-2000 miles,engine rpm became increasingly unmanageable. When the PMD cable connection went bad I could hear the ip solenoid shifting rapidly when I would touch the connection. So solenoid may have been damaged with all the shifting on and off or from the pulley vibration. I replaced the PMD with two known good ones. I haven't put a code reader on yet. Its leaking power steering fluid from the booster, its been leaking for a while so the drivers side under dash is soaked. I've since purchased a new truck, but if its a simple fix I may keep it. I also had batterie problems just before this problem started. I didn't want to spend any money as I knew I was buying a new truck. Ffm filter is black. When I put the old filter back on I missed the rubber o ring, started it, ran smooth but fuel was leaking all over the place. Fixed the o ring restarted problem persisted. What say yee??
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No engine control at all
- Thread starter Bostonguy
- Start date
3500GMC
What T F, over
Some of the PMD extension harnesses (even new) are known to cause havoc like this. The fix could be as simple as a 'better' harness. One check could be on the pins, insuring that none are bent or pushed out of the housing. Continuity check as well.
Anything is possible. I'm hearing about the optical eye in the ip, and that nothing can be done. But then I read a post about turning it to get more power. I must have this post in the wrong place, only one reply. Ususly I get 10 by now.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I think not many responses cause you have multiple things to address and no one wants to step in and hurt your feelings.
You either have to dump it for no $, or put some time and possible cash into it to either keep it or sell it for any decent $.
imo fix what you know is bad, if you keep it you need it fixed.
Start by washing it clean of the leaked fluid. Replace broken mounts, and fix the leak so it does not add to problems further. Disconnect batteries from truck and each other, individually hook up battery charger and see if they recover or need replacing.
Replace the obviously bad fuel filter and put in a new one. remove and clean all ground wires under the hood, especially rear of engine bell housing one. Follow post #2.
Get to that point and you'll probably be up and running. If not, that has to be done before you go onto anything else. Or at least that's what I would do.
You either have to dump it for no $, or put some time and possible cash into it to either keep it or sell it for any decent $.
imo fix what you know is bad, if you keep it you need it fixed.
Start by washing it clean of the leaked fluid. Replace broken mounts, and fix the leak so it does not add to problems further. Disconnect batteries from truck and each other, individually hook up battery charger and see if they recover or need replacing.
Replace the obviously bad fuel filter and put in a new one. remove and clean all ground wires under the hood, especially rear of engine bell housing one. Follow post #2.
Get to that point and you'll probably be up and running. If not, that has to be done before you go onto anything else. Or at least that's what I would do.
Thanks! As for hurting my feelings, Im not thin skinned. As for selling it, I have several standing offers of $1000 as is. I was considering fixing it because the engine is tight and has very good compression. I'm running and a team turbo on it and 4inch exsaust(which isn't part of the sale) it starts without the block heater and doesn't smoke at all in -0 temps. I'm only considering fixing it as a back up.
I would look into curing the following:
Air in system from 'used' fuel filter can cause all kinds of issues.
Bad batteries mess up computers.
Hydro-booster leaks can get the APP sensor, accelerator pedal, wet with oil.
Air in system from 'used' fuel filter can cause all kinds of issues.
Bad batteries mess up computers.
Hydro-booster leaks can get the APP sensor, accelerator pedal, wet with oil.
wiggle
New Member
I think you have to address your battery problem to get proper values at all your sensors then run the codes
JMJNet
Recruit
This truck loves 2 great batteries!!!
If you don't want to get 2 good batteries and a new fuel filter, buy 2 horses and put them in front with some appropriate harness. See if the truck can run!!!
Now at least you have "control" of the truck. LOL!!!
If you don't want to get 2 good batteries and a new fuel filter, buy 2 horses and put them in front with some appropriate harness. See if the truck can run!!!
Now at least you have "control" of the truck. LOL!!!
Not sure what why these responses keep ponting to the batteries. I said I "had" batterie problems. Replaced with 2 new ones. i only mentioned it because i had to jump it a bumch of times and thought maybe id done some damage. As for the "used filter" I pulled the filter out for inspection and put it back in, as I only removed it for inspection. I was just looking for a few suggestions. I thought that was the purpose of a forum. Ill buy a book.
JMJNet
Recruit
The fuel filter in this truck, once you pull it out, the gasket will never seal again.
That is why it is leaking. Don't ask me how I know??? something called experience.
That leak will cause some surging because air is in the system.
As for new batteries, you have to check it when problem started again.
As a matter of fact, if you replace the batteries then you have problem, then the batteries become a culprit again.
All the parts, no matter how new or how old, becomes a culprit.
We cannot just said that something is new and therefore have to be good.
The days with that type of assumption has long gone.
New parts do not mean that they are good.
QC is not as good as you think.
In a lot of cases, new parts may be the cause of your problem.
That is why it is leaking. Don't ask me how I know??? something called experience.
That leak will cause some surging because air is in the system.
As for new batteries, you have to check it when problem started again.
As a matter of fact, if you replace the batteries then you have problem, then the batteries become a culprit again.
All the parts, no matter how new or how old, becomes a culprit.
We cannot just said that something is new and therefore have to be good.
The days with that type of assumption has long gone.
New parts do not mean that they are good.
QC is not as good as you think.
In a lot of cases, new parts may be the cause of your problem.
Ummm not to seem argumentative, but the ffm isn't leaking. I reseated it afte I found it was leaking. The lack of throttle control is likely the ip. I was trying to get a few other ideas before I pulled the pump. The engine only has 137k and its a 2000 casting f code engine. Before I cut the truck up I want the engine running right. So if I need it I have it. Thanks for your input.
JMJNet
Recruit
The IP or Flight System/DTech PMD (assuming you have one of those).
Not sure if SSD sold Stanadyne or FS/DT. He may put his brand sticker, too.
See you are asking for input but at the same time, you have to be the one that is doing the work/test.
We don't have access to the truck.
I would also suggest to put some paragraph when writing, even if it is not according to the english language convention but to make it easier to read.
wiggle
New Member
Leaking all over the drivers side.....is more than likely the answer.....oil soaking your APP....or call it a gas pedal with sensors in it
Im leaning toward the 'temp/cam Sensor' on the injection pump. Test for that is disconnecting and restart. Cheapest thing to rule out. I found a video of a 6.5 doing the same thing. If it were smoking I would consider injectors, air, filters and 100 other things. The engine is strong otherwise. I just want to find the problem before I pull it out. Although it does have blow-by. Considering re-ring, fresh bearings and oil pump. The engine is only a spare or I may sell it. But have to make it run properly either way.