No AC

[Big T]

AC stopped working. Checked fuses at the the dash and in the engine compartment and both are good. Unplugged the wire to the AC compressor and not getting voltage there. Wondering if all the tussle with the lower steering column knocked out the wiring? Anyplace else I should be testing?

 

[MrMarty51]

Relay switch.

 

[WarWagon]

Switch on accumulator "open"? Indicating loss of charge.

 

[Big T]

Switch on accumulator "open"? Indicating loss of charge.

Performance had degraded over the summer until now there is nothing and the compressor no longer comes on.

 

[Husker6.5]

Sounds like you have a slow leak somewhere in the system and you lack sufficient Lo pressure to activate the switch to allow the compressor to kick in in the first place. If it were me, I'd charge the system back up with a shot of UV leak detector in it, run it, and grab the glasses and the UV flashlight ($9 at Harbor Freight for the flashlight, like $4 for the glasses) and go leak hunting. Hopefully, it's not the compressor body. If you have the dual air Burb, the Tee fittings for the rear lines near the turbo is a common failure point due to heat and the O-rings not being compatible. Don't forget to pull the right rear cargo compartment side panel and check the fittings to the rear evaporator, either.

 

[Will L.]

I agree with the above except- look for trace oil leaks needs mentioned and on the harbor freight:
gauges, vacuum pump is ok from harbor freight. The better gauges and pump do hundreds of jobs, cheap ones maybe 50. But diy and if you are careful with them is good enough and money saved.

Not the dye, not the glasses and certainly not the uv light, or o rings,- these items you get the best ones you can. That is the difference of finding it in minutes versus never finding it. Or orings that fail in months instead of many years. Valves also.

Finding a huge leak is easy, but most are small and hard to find. For that you want a really high quality uv flash light and glasses. And if you cant do it in a closed garage in the dark- huge thick blankets are made for that reason.

Whenever putting in dye, it is critical to wash away any that spilled, especially around the valves. They are a common leak place and if you don’t wash away immediately, when you go looking later you can fool yourself.

 

[Husker6.5]

I beg to differ with you on Harbor Freight's UV LED flashlight, @Will L.. It is a quality and very bright multi-LED unit. I bought one to use when on the sound board at night to check settings without having to affect my night vision by turning on the gooseneck white light lamps on the board to check settings, etc. I also found that it did a really great job of lighting up people wearing white, fluorescent or glow-in-the-dark items 30' away, too!

 

[Will L.]

Ok, last ones I saw they had were crappy- but if they have a new one- cool.

 

[Husker6.5]

These are like a mini Maglite, take three or four AAA cells. Have like 9 LEDs in the head. Non-adjustable focus.

 

[Big T]

The place I intend to take the truck for alignment (Rods Auto & Align in Hamilton, MT), also does AC work, so I will have him do both.

 

[Will L.]

Many shops “do” a/c work. It is cheap to get into and makes money. I find 10% of them are actually good. Investigate before you find out the hard way if they are good or not!

Any time an a/c is opened- I do new schrader or port valves. A couple dollars but they are the most common leaks. There is a conversion kit to to away from the piece of junk plastic ball valve gm things to real schrader valves. Do it while the system is open.