• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New truck new problems!

B

Bostonguy

New Member
Messages
66
Reaction score
0
Location
Boston
Hi all,

Been a while since I've done any posting,
But I need some help. As much as I hated to do it I had to retire my 2000 drw rack dump. It was rotted,
Leaking and just falling apart around the best part the 6.5td. I found a 1998 gmc k3500 that came up from Texas. It's so clean you can eat off the frame. The guy I bought it off of was shady as could be, he claims he replace this that and the other thing. More to the point he nor whoever worked on the truck knew what they were doing.

Picked it up, wasn't too cold but the truck had run that day. Parked the truck overnight the glow plugs cycled but not long enough. So I suspect the former owner cranked the shit out of the truck cooked the starter, batteries, and likely the heads or gaskets. In order to get the truck started I had to do what should never be done, starting fluid, uggggly! But effective. I've been driving the truck all day the engine sounds ok, no pressure, smoke, or milk in oil (yet) I did notice something sticky around the oil filler neck, block sealer? Seller claims lucus oil treatment.

My old truck will start no matter how cold it is. So until I figure out how damaged this block how can I get the plugs to cycle long enough so It will start without damaging it more?
 
Bostonguy said:
. . . how can I get the plugs to cycle long enough so It will start without damaging it more?
Click to expand...

Presuming the GP's are all working correctly. . . Can try this as a manual time extender:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...sel-engine/340695-how-glow-plug-override.html

Bonus is that it can still help out even after getting the system back in top shape.

And by the way, the 'warm start' trick is something that I warn PO's about when I go to look at a used diesel; if the temperature all around the engine bay does not equal the air temperature, I walk away.
 
I bet you block/head gaskets are OK, sure they may fail someday but if you drove it all day with no signs then I wouldnt worry.

Injectors, GP's, Battery Cables, GP Cables, and GP controler are kinda important
 
I've seen about 90% of the time in the fleet when someone used starting fluid the glowplugs were no good afterwards. It builds are crystaling substance on the gp surface and they can't get anywhere near as hot as they used to.

My 2cents- put in new ones now. Bosch are my preference. And a harbor freight heat gun is not a bad choice instead of start-her knocking fluid.
 
Can't get the truth out of the seller. I paid 2600 for it w/ very nice fifth wheel body. (For sale)And it's an hd. So I'm still happy with my purchase. I still have old faithful incase the engine does let go. It wasn't very cold last night I plugged it in still no luck, and The pos lead burnt off the starter. I'm going to have to start at the beginning and go from there. As a reply to the over ride, seller claims its already been installed. I tried to use it, doesn't work. A lot of people walk away from the. 6.5 because they don't know how to work on it. I'm not intimidated by the 6.5, I can ways depend on good guys here to help me out. Well, time to grab the tool box! Ill report back.
 
How can the emc stop heating the plugs long enough? After closer inspection, someone recently replaced all the plugs, wires and looks like the relay was changed. I found a button wired to the fuse box and the relay. So looks like he was overriding the relay without an override kit. Would this burn out the relay? Blow fuses? So on?
 
Bostonguy said:
How can the emc stop heating the plugs long enough? After closer inspection, someone recently replaced all the plugs, wires and looks like the relay was changed. I found a button wired to the fuse box and the relay. So looks like he was overriding the relay without an override kit. Would this burn out the relay? Blow fuses? So on?
Click to expand...

Shouldn't burn anything out, but it could have. May set a code.
What brand of new looking glow plugs? What part number?

Post a picture of the override.

The override isn't working. The GP's are not working. Assume something is wrong and that any of the parts new or not may not work. In fact the override may have FUBAR'd the wires. You will have to check the ECM for proper voltages to the GP relay in case it was hurt or wires messed up in the override hack.

I would make sure that the GP relay gets 12v on the big bolt down wires. Does it click when you turn the key on? Possible the engine temp sensor is telling the ECM the engine is hot. Likely with 12v the GP relay is bad.

Then check the override for giving the relay 12v. Then check that the override is going to the proper ECM pin. I may be backwards and the ECM may ground the GP relay to turn it on. Messing with this likely will cause the computer to code. Myself (I am cheap, but not THAT cheap) I would use the over ride wire to run a new bypass with a $18.00 stand alone Ford starter solenoid. BWD P/N S5049 and 2 short thick wires. Leroy Diesel also sells a bypass kit.
 
It could burn out the plugs if they can't handle the extended glow time. As long as he wired it ok and with proper size wire it should be fine. Electronics genius' correct me if I am missing something...
 
Found the problem! The truck had a trailer brake in the cab, when he removed it he cut power to his override switch. It was just a matter of following the steps, check for power to the solenoid, then me sure theres powers to the button, which there wasn't. However, I shouldn't have to press a bottom to warm the plugs. I will use the button for now, buy ill have to figure out why it only glows for 3 seconds by itself. Any one know what the thread size and type are on the 6.5 starte solonoid ? Some how it not lose and fell off. It holds lug from the batterie.

Also , someone mentioned that using fluid destroys the GPs. After I wired the override i started it, its 30 sets here and it started right up. Does that mean the GPs are still good? I used the starting fluid twice, both times I had someone in the cab turning the engine while I have it a small shot.
 
You have to make sure you have 60G's AC Delco or Bosch Duraterms in the engine otherwise you will burn them out and have some real fun getting them out of the engine.
 
Last I knew SS Diesel sells WAP's which are cheap knock offs also sold as autolights and relabled many ways. Not good for the long term but would be good for a temp spare imo
 
Yes former owner replaced with SS diesel parts. Has the cooler mounted to top of manifold. Usual SS crap. Former owner thinks SS diesel is the cats ass! And I'm foolish for installing a team turbo and 4" diamond eye. The turbo paid for itself in fuel mileage alone. Granted the exsaust is a little loud for my taste but it needs to be there. My new truck is a longer wheel base and the doors, windows close tight so I won't have to listen to the exsaust all day. You west coast/southern guys just don't know what New England weather does to a vehicle in 5 years. Old faithful looks like Swiss cheeses, doors falling off. It's a sad thing because I made good money in this truck. I doubt the new one will be as nice to me.
 
:hihi: "And I'm foolish for installing a team turbo and 4" diamond eye"
Add some more mufflers and it will shut it up some.

I would get a new set of 60G's or Duraterms in there ASAP! Before you need to order a glow plug removal tool or light the engine off to blow the broken/swelled plugs out...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top