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New to the forum, hello, this is my ride.

K

kunstmilch

New Member
Messages
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Hello all,

My ride:
1999 (OBS-GMT400) K2500 SLT 7.4L

Recently dropped in: (mechanic, not me/yes it was expensive)
New GM 7.4L L29 engine
New cooling system
New 4L80E Transmission
New Full Suspension from just below the steering wheel. (same leafs)(Moog/Mechanic considers Moog OEM)
New brakes and rotors.
New Power steering system
New Air Conditioning system
New Fuel system

Working on:
Adding a modified York 210 for compressed air system.
Swapping 140 Amp alternator for 195 Amp alternator
Swapping stock clutch fan for electric Flex-A-Lite 28X Series
Adding Premiere Power Pro Welding system
Adding heat exchanger and electric water pump (external to engine system) for on demand hot water.
Adding dual battery system.
Adding replacement towing mirrors (old ones are tired)


Wanted:
New stereo with back up camera and apple
Roof rack
En-suite for showering
270 Awning
Hydraulic Winch (mountable front and back)
Bumpers to handle winch and possible back storage.
Auxiliary air suspension
 
Welcome. Good lookin rig.

so are you going to use internal mounted winch So both bumpers have one, or do a drawbar style to move the winch to the rear as needed?

I have a used york210 sitting on my shelf that I was considering installing in my hummer, but it is currently twin v belt and hummer is 6 groove serpentine, and fitting it is also a major challenge. Probably wont ever happen. The big twin cylinder arb electric will most likely be my current compressor replacement when needed. Those Yorks can run anything in a hurry! A person can make a killer shop compressor out of one.

Can you explain/ talk about the hot water system? For camping showers or something?
 
Will L. said:
Welcome. Good lookin rig.

so are you going to use internal mounted winch So both bumpers have one, or do a drawbar style to move the winch to the rear as needed?

I have a used york210 sitting on my shelf that I was considering installing in my hummer, but it is currently twin v belt and hummer is 6 groove serpentine, and fitting it is also a major challenge. Probably wont ever happen. The big twin cylinder arb electric will most likely be my current compressor replacement when needed. Those Yorks can run anything in a hurry! A person can make a killer shop compressor out of one.

Can you explain/ talk about the hot water system? For camping showers or something?
Click to expand...
I haven't figured it all out yet. However, I am thinking of having a hydraulic winch hooked up "inside" a bumper to a 2" receiver and a couple tractor grade quick disconnects. then I could pop the whole thing off and hook it to my receiver on the back and connect to the same lines. This way I can use that winch to pull onto my trailer, or pull things out as needed. I decided a hydraulic would be best as I use the truck a lot for logging work on my Oregon property. I don't think a battery driven winch would take the abuse. Having a high idle setting will allow me to easily winch things.

I haven't figured out how the hydraulics will work yet, but I figure when I get a chance I can talk with a tractor supply place and they will draw it out like its kindergarten math. Ultimately I know I won't want to take the winch out and move it around, but it wouldn't be used that often on the back, but having the ability to without the cost of a second winch seems real sweet.

If you already have the York I'd get a pull for it and do it, but the ARB twin is cherry. I just wanted to be able to ru air tools if wanted. Inevitably I will do something then be pissed that whatever it is does do what I end up wanting, so I just go over the top and find that it usually does just enough. Kinda like the suburban.

There is a kit for your York to fit your truck. Might be worth it.
 
kunstmilch said:
I haven't figured it all out yet. However, I am thinking of having a hydraulic winch hooked up "inside" a bumper to a 2" receiver and a couple tractor grade quick disconnects. then I could pop the whole thing off and hook it to my receiver on the back and connect to the same lines. This way I can use that winch to pull onto my trailer, or pull things out as needed. I decided a hydraulic would be best as I use the truck a lot for logging work on my Oregon property. I don't think a battery driven winch would take the abuse. Having a high idle setting will allow me to easily winch things.

I haven't figured out how the hydraulics will work yet, but I figure when I get a chance I can talk with a tractor supply place and they will draw it out like its kindergarten math. Ultimately I know I won't want to take the winch out and move it around, but it wouldn't be used that often on the back, but having the ability to without the cost of a second winch seems real sweet.

If you already have the York I'd get a pull for it and do it, but the ARB twin is cherry. I just wanted to be able to ru air tools if wanted. Inevitably I will do something then be pissed that whatever it is does do what I end up wanting, so I just go over the top and find that it usually does just enough. Kinda like the suburban.

There is a kit for your York to fit your truck. Might be worth it.
Click to expand...
Will L. said:
Welcome. Good lookin rig.

so are you going to use internal mounted winch So both bumpers have one, or do a drawbar style to move the winch to the rear as needed?

I have a used york210 sitting on my shelf that I was considering installing in my hummer, but it is currently twin v belt and hummer is 6 groove serpentine, and fitting it is also a major challenge. Probably wont ever happen. The big twin cylinder arb electric will most likely be my current compressor replacement when needed. Those Yorks can run anything in a hurry! A person can make a killer shop compressor out of one.

Can you explain/ talk about the hot water system? For camping showers or something?
Click to expand...
As for the shower system, lol I haven't figured all that out yet either...

So I got myself a 30 plate stainless heat exchanger, and an American adventure water pump. I plan on having quick connect points for a hose to go to my pond (again this is for my Oregon spot, but allows us to enjoy anyplace) from there it will connect to the pump. From the pump it goes to the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is placed in-line with the cooling system, so I between where the hose goes from the radiator to the heater block. The water then steals heat from the coolant and I should be able to use the temperature dial on the truck to adjust the speed/temperature. From the heat exchanger, the line runs to a second quick connect. It is at this point that I plug in a hose, or a shower line, or whatever really. I bought a shower head that has an on/off switch, so the pump is an on demand self priming pump. This should get us some nice hot water, as our pond is freezing and im not a kid anymore and don't feel much like jumping into a cold pond like I used to. Besides, my partner really wants hot water, and running pots over a propane stove sucks.

Does this make sense? Since I haven't actually done it yet, I cannot yet say I have gotten it right, so we will see. And please someone tell me if I am an idiot here and am getting something wrong.
 
Mile Marker makes great hydraulic winches. There is complete kits for hummer/ hmmwv that runs off the power steering pump you could see where they tap from - runs same engine and auto trans as your truck. I would suggest Parker rand fittings for the hydraulic self sealing quick disconnects. They are the best ones on the market imo.
careful if using rear truck located winch to pull stuff onto a trailer. We used to do it all the time until a friend was loading a broke pickup onto his car trailer and the transfer case bound locking all four tires Just as the front tires started going up the ramps. The winch growled a little harder like normal for 1-2 seconds and tires started skidding. by time we realized something was wrong it bent the trailer hitch. After that we built a receiver onto the newly rebuilt triangle style trailer tongue. For that you would just need some extent hoses and would have to refill the reservoir the first time, the. The hoses would always have oil in them.
There is also stand alone power units for hydraulic winches that is basically a small gas engine with a power steering pump as rescue supply units for when the engine is dead and cant run truck or if you have a remote location to use the winch.

The argument of hydraulic vs electric winches:
Basically electric is easier install, cheaper investment, but if needed can be used with engine off. Adding a dedicated battery and high output alternator & battery isolator raises costs equal to th of the hydraulic but saves you engine battery from destruction if used frequently and/or under great load. Most learn the hard way wether or not a dedicated battery is there to always run the engine with high idle winching electric anyways.

The hydraulic costs a lot more upfront, and will burn out an old stock power steering pump in a hurry. Upgraded power steering pump is a must here so do it from the start and keep the old pump on hand in the parts box for a just in case day. Most guys that added the hydraulic winch to their hummer/hmmwv don’t get a year out of the old stock unit and they aren’t usually daily drivers, so... yeah... do it day one. Also install the spoked pump pulley or drill access holes in your when you do it, because you will be replacing the pump again. The use of power steering cooler is a MUST.

Under water, mud, snow- hydraulic always wins. Depending on the winch most electric require vent lines to fresh air level and some simply will never survive under water.

Run the hydraulic if you winch a lot. Or if when you winch you are pulling heavy loads long distances.
If it is an occasional use and you sometimes go an entire year without using the winch, or you want one “just in case” then really you fall into the category of WANT one not NEED one. Then electric is the better choice.
Many folks (that have more expendable cash than me) choose for hydraulic front and electric rear so they are covered no matter the situation.

The rule of thumb on how big a winch is arguable from truck actual weight to twice it’s weight. The military learned with hmmwvs twice it’s weight was prudent. Also remember if you run one or multiple snatch blocks - get the line rated for that use. Look into synthetic line- so much safer if it fails but $$.

I didn’t know there was a hummer kit available, I was planning on diy. I will look it up.

On the heat exchanger- just make sure you dont let it run dry and allow failure. Since it will live hot all the time, I would run Parker self sealing disconnects there too. I don’t think truck controls will help. The fan speed just blows more or less air removing heat from beater core to the vents, and the hot/cold control opens and closes an air blending door. The heater core coolant flow is either all the way off or all the way on. NEVER completely stop coolant flow it will cause overheating issues in the truck for this engine.
I think you would do better to put a “T” in the cold water line after the pump before the heat exchanger. Then run the two, hot & cold, back to a basic shower valve & head to blend the water like normal.

I would be concerned to make sure the heat exchanger NEVER runs dry because of fail in a couple minutes if it does. Maybe some are designed for it, but not that Ive seen. Maybe a 2 second time delay pressure switch that cuts power to pump? A momentary push button for priming the system is easy add on. It would be more work and cost up front, but compare it to failed heat exchanger dumping all your coolant in 5-10 seconds. Now what does a new engine cost vs that electric safety set up...

Btw- seen these?https://www.lowes.com/pd/EZ-Tankles...quid-Propane-Tankless-Water-Heater/1000881336
 
Will L. said:
Mile Marker makes great hydraulic winches. There is complete kits for hummer/ hmmwv that runs off the power steering pump you could see where they tap from - runs same engine and auto trans as your truck. I would suggest Parker rand fittings for the hydraulic self sealing quick disconnects. They are the best ones on the market imo.
careful if using rear truck located winch to pull stuff onto a trailer. We used to do it all the time until a friend was loading a broke pickup onto his car trailer and the transfer case bound locking all four tires Just as the front tires started going up the ramps. The winch growled a little harder like normal for 1-2 seconds and tires started skidding. by time we realized something was wrong it bent the trailer hitch. After that we built a receiver onto the newly rebuilt triangle style trailer tongue. For that you would just need some extent hoses and would have to refill the reservoir the first time, the. The hoses would always have oil in them.
There is also stand alone power units for hydraulic winches that is basically a small gas engine with a power steering pump as rescue supply units for when the engine is dead and cant run truck or if you have a remote location to use the winch.

The argument of hydraulic vs electric winches:
Basically electric is easier install, cheaper investment, but if needed can be used with engine off. Adding a dedicated battery and high output alternator & battery isolator raises costs equal to th of the hydraulic but saves you engine battery from destruction if used frequently and/or under great load. Most learn the hard way wether or not a dedicated battery is there to always run the engine with high idle winching electric anyways.

The hydraulic costs a lot more upfront, and will burn out an old stock power steering pump in a hurry. Upgraded power steering pump is a must here so do it from the start and keep the old pump on hand in the parts box for a just in case day. Most guys that added the hydraulic winch to their hummer/hmmwv don’t get a year out of the old stock unit and they aren’t usually daily drivers, so... yeah... do it day one. Also install the spoked pump pulley or drill access holes in your when you do it, because you will be replacing the pump again. The use of power steering cooler is a MUST.

Under water, mud, snow- hydraulic always wins. Depending on the winch most electric require vent lines to fresh air level and some simply will never survive under water.

Run the hydraulic if you winch a lot. Or if when you winch you are pulling heavy loads long distances.
If it is an occasional use and you sometimes go an entire year without using the winch, or you want one “just in case” then really you fall into the category of WANT one not NEED one. Then electric is the better choice.
Many folks (that have more expendable cash than me) choose for hydraulic front and electric rear so they are covered no matter the situation.

The rule of thumb on how big a winch is arguable from truck actual weight to twice it’s weight. The military learned with hmmwvs twice it’s weight was prudent. Also remember if you run one or multiple snatch blocks - get the line rated for that use. Look into synthetic line- so much safer if it fails but $$.

I didn’t know there was a hummer kit available, I was planning on diy. I will look it up.

On the heat exchanger- just make sure you dont let it run dry and allow failure. Since it will live hot all the time, I would run Parker self sealing disconnects there too. I don’t think truck controls will help. The fan speed just blows more or less air removing heat from beater core to the vents, and the hot/cold control opens and closes an air blending door. The heater core coolant flow is either all the way off or all the way on. NEVER completely stop coolant flow it will cause overheating issues in the truck for this engine.
I think you would do better to put a “T” in the cold water line after the pump before the heat exchanger. Then run the two, hot & cold, back to a basic shower valve & head to blend the water like normal.

I would be concerned to make sure the heat exchanger NEVER runs dry because of fail in a couple minutes if it does. Maybe some are designed for it, but not that Ive seen. Maybe a 2 second time delay pressure switch that cuts power to pump? A momentary push button for priming the system is easy add on. It would be more work and cost up front, but compare it to failed heat exchanger dumping all your coolant in 5-10 seconds. Now what does a new engine cost vs that electric safety set up...

Btw- seen these?https://www.lowes.com/pd/EZ-Tankles...quid-Propane-Tankless-Water-Heater/1000881336
Click to expand...
Thank you for the thoughtful reply.

I had reached out to mile marker and unfortunately they weren't all that helpful. I am also glad to hear that it is in fact hard on the pump, which is what I had thought but mile marker assured me that it wouldn't effect the power steering pump or lines. I am also a bit off on their brand as they're proud anti unionist.

Given that it is hard on the pump I may have to rethink that. What pump do people go with? Do you know if there is a pump and lines that doesn't get a shorter life from running hydraulics?

For the heat exchanger, are you suggesting I disconnect it until use, rather then let it run through the system always?

I originally designed the system with a tee as you suggest to mix hot and cold but I had heard others who tried it say that it worked well for them. Its difficult to get good information on all this. I appreciate the forethought.

If the heat exchanger can't run dry (as in air on one side with hot coolant running through the other) then it definitely would need to be tee'd off and have cold water run through first, then switch. An electric switch could work, another layer of complexity though.

Ill have to do multiple tests.

I do like the Parker stuff, I had considered AN fittings as well for the compressed lines, I worry about leaks.
 
PSC pumps are the go to ones most have good luck with. Some folks Just get a new factory one. Basically its that the current pump is usually decades old and worn, then a new added load on it speeds up its death. And for people that really use the hydraulic winch a lot, it will cause more wear on the pump. The lines really wont be affected. You should use solid lines to the rear of the rig not hoses ideally, but installing hose is much easier.

On the heat exchanger- call the mfr and ask them if it’s ok to run dry. Anything else is speculative. I have seen some fail from running dry, but could be designed for it.
I am just imagining on this thing- if you know others that have done it and are successful- copy them.

AN fittings- The real AN is Army Navy standard that each dash size is 1/16” and 37° Flare. There is a company the smartly copyrighted the names: AN Hose and AN Fitting. That is the popular race parts company for diy hoses. And while their fittings are lifetime warranty for the hobbiest, they are not lifetime warranty for professional industrial use. They are aluminum and thin for racing saving weight and look awesome. But imo on something that is critical like winch that if it fails takes out steering and brakes- um, think I will get the real stuff like is used in industrial application and pay the 2 lbs of extra weight penalty.

You will never see aluminum fittings on Caterpillar, Komatsu, etc. Thick, heavy duty, steel. True, diy professional hydraulic hose is not going to happen without a couple thousand dollar investment, but the hose and fittings are cheaper when you go to a regular hydraulic shop and have them make the hose to length.

I should for those not used to working with different brands of pro hydraulic stuff, Parker makes the best self sealing fittings “IMO” but don’t be upset if your local place carries a different brand. I am a disconnect snob. But all the regular fittings wether 37° or the 45° JIC fittings, it is hard to find even chinese metal fittings that fail as soon as aluminum ones when something bangs into it. And the other brands of self sealing fittings work, just requires a little more effort in coupling or uncoupling and doing it a couple times a month people will never notice the difference. But I started messing with them as a 8 year old kid and doing it alot, so I got picky early.

So if you want diy, pretty, and light weight- go with the AN Hose brand. If you want rugged, professional grade- use a piece of vacuum hose or old garden hose cut to check the exact size and go to a pro hydraulic shop to have it made, and yes they make them in the -2, -8, etc sizes also that was standardized by the ArmyNavy.
 
Will L. said:
PSC pumps are the go to ones most have good luck with. Some folks Just get a new factory one. Basically its that the current pump is usually decades old and worn, then a new added load on it speeds up its death. And for people that really use the hydraulic winch a lot, it will cause more wear on the pump. The lines really wont be affected. You should use solid lines to the rear of the rig not hoses ideally, but installing hose is much easier.

On the heat exchanger- call the mfr and ask them if it’s ok to run dry. Anything else is speculative. I have seen some fail from running dry, but could be designed for it.
I am just imagining on this thing- if you know others that have done it and are successful- copy them.

AN fittings- The real AN is Army Navy standard that each dash size is 1/16” and 37° Flare. There is a company the smartly copyrighted the names: AN Hose and AN Fitting. That is the popular race parts company for diy hoses. And while their fittings are lifetime warranty for the hobbiest, they are not lifetime warranty for professional industrial use. They are aluminum and thin for racing saving weight and look awesome. But imo on something that is critical like winch that if it fails takes out steering and brakes- um, think I will get the real stuff like is used in industrial application and pay the 2 lbs of extra weight penalty.

You will never see aluminum fittings on Caterpillar, Komatsu, etc. Thick, heavy duty, steel. True, diy professional hydraulic hose is not going to happen without a couple thousand dollar investment, but the hose and fittings are cheaper when you go to a regular hydraulic shop and have them make the hose to length.

I should for those not used to working with different brands of pro hydraulic stuff, Parker makes the best self sealing fittings “IMO” but don’t be upset if your local place carries a different brand. I am a disconnect snob. But all the regular fittings wether 37° or the 45° JIC fittings, it is hard to find even chinese metal fittings that fail as soon as aluminum ones when something bangs into it. And the other brands of self sealing fittings work, just requires a little more effort in coupling or uncoupling and doing it a couple times a month people will never notice the difference. But I started messing with them as a 8 year old kid and doing it alot, so I got picky early.

So if you want diy, pretty, and light weight- go with the AN Hose brand. If you want rugged, professional grade- use a piece of vacuum hose or old garden hose cut to check the exact size and go to a pro hydraulic shop to have it made, and yes they make them in the -2, -8, etc sizes also that was standardized by the ArmyNavy.
Click to expand...
Incredibly helpful. Thank you.

So I just had the entire hydraulic system replaced with new GM stuff and has 3 year warrantee. I will check with them on their recommendations. It might also be possible to run an auxiliary hydraulic off of a second pump. But I'd rather not if not needed expense and complexity wise. If I were to go that route however, I'd likely just end up expanding even more and trying to figure out a snow plow set up of Oregon. That would be pretty amazing.

I am defiantly a snob when it comes to stuff working and how it works, so Parker it is (already had them bookmarked anyway.). Its good to know about the AN fittings being knock offs for racing, not interested in that. I was thinking of being out the lines and flaring myself, instead of hoses for the compressed air lines anyway. I do like the idea of going hard line to the back, but the worry is always vibrations causing problems, but a hardline going to the back along the chassis shouldn't be an issue.

It sounds like you are the right person to pic brains from. Much appreciated!
 
kunstmilch said:
Incredibly helpful. Thank you.

So I just had the entire hydraulic system replaced with new GM stuff and has 3 year warrantee. I will check with them on their recommendations. It might also be possible to run an auxiliary hydraulic off of a second pump. But I'd rather not if not needed expense and complexity wise. If I were to go that route however, I'd likely just end up expanding even more and trying to figure out a snow plow set up of Oregon. That would be pretty amazing.

I am defiantly a snob when it comes to stuff working and how it works, so Parker it is (already had them bookmarked anyway.). Its good to know about the AN fittings being knock offs for racing, not interested in that. I was thinking of being out the lines and flaring myself, instead of hoses for the compressed air lines anyway. I do like the idea of going hard line to the back, but the worry is always vibrations causing problems, but a hardline going to the back along the chassis shouldn't be an issue.

It sounds like you are the right person to pic brains from. Much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Oh! and a Wood Splitter! uh oh, here we go. Im basically going to make this a GMC tractor...probably not a good idea though. I wish I had the diesel at least.
 
OK, so don't really know where to put this so it ends up being in the same thread as the rest here.

I looked at my mounting options and talked with the mechanic who did the engine. There isn't really any room for more things to add on after I have added the air compressor off the alternator. so a second hydraulic pump (power steering or otherwise) would be difficult and require moving a bunch of stuff around and custom hoses and what not, not good for simple replacements when traveling.

I am starting to look into PTO winches, perhaps that's the answer? But I know absolutely nothing about this. As for using the power steering for the hydraulic winch, the mechanic was nervous about warranting as they had to go through 3 units to get it to not capitate badly. He thinks it would be a bad idea. I could upgrade, but then when I look into the winches like Ramsey and Warn or Tulsa they all seem to need more flow and PSI than the power steering system is capable of. (Looking at 12,000lb minimum, want to go with at least 15,000lb, and prefer 18,000)

Will L. thank you for your knowledge base, the idea of a hitch to the trailer is a good idea if hitching back onto a trailer, but if I do go with PTO I think that would change the whole deal. I think one can have two winches on one PTO set up from what I have read, but I'd likely only run front.
 
Adding any winch is going to tax something mechanically and cost more in maintenance long term.
There is nothing wrong with using the power steering pump in factory location to supply a hydraulic winch, just know that you should plan on a psc pump in the future. Know thatvit wont last as long as it would if there were no pump.
A hydraulic winch is the better option IF you run it once a month, or if you use it a few times a year but have to have long sustained pulls when you do it.

If you don’t hit one of those two qualifiers then just get an electric.
 
Will L. said:
Adding any winch is going to tax something mechanically and cost more in maintenance long term.
There is nothing wrong with using the power steering pump in factory location to supply a hydraulic winch, just know that you should plan on a psc pump in the future. Know thatvit wont last as long as it would if there were no pump.
A hydraulic winch is the better option IF you run it once a month, or if you use it a few times a year but have to have long sustained pulls when you do it.

If you don’t hit one of those two qualifiers then just get an electric.
Click to expand...
Thanks Will! I guess I am still not understanding how hydraulics work, as well as I thought, lol. If a rated winch, say a Warn for 18,000lb, requires a higher PSI and GPM than the pump allows, wouldn't that reduce the rating and strength of pull, or speed? Just trying to have it make sense in my head. I did look at the PSC pumps, and I don't mind upgrading, in fact I'd be happy to pay to get a VERY robust pump, but from what I have seen the upgrades seem to be for rodding and are less powerful to not take as much HP to run. Sorry for my ignorance.

I also looked up compressed air winches but that ain't happening, lol. Hydraulic is definitely the way to go. Like I said, I'll be running it a lot in Oregon working on the property. Not interested in an electric and worrying about it overheating on a long pull, plus then I couldn't hook up other things like a log splitter or the like...
 
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