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New to me donor 6.2L engine

On the video I did some closeups around the engine hoping the audio comes through for the noises around the timing cover and IP as well as around the arse end too. I am guessing the temp got up to around 160. the oil pan was warm but not so hot you can't hold your hand on it.

I know and am taking in consideration what WW said about the cracks on the mains. I don't plan on doing an engine swap real quick like, but if it's worthy for keeping the 93 running a while. I would like to use it while taking my time going through it's engine, mainly fixing the blow by oil consumption. This 6.2 is showing some blow by but doesn't seem near as bad as the 93, maybe about par with my 95. it's also frankly all I have to work with considering how funding goes. But tell me what yall are thinking.
 
dbrannon79 said:
the drinkers side (turbo side) now has 4 short 6.5 injectors installed so they are not up against the manifold.
Click to expand...

Use two exhaust manifold gaskets and header wrap the manifold. Then the 6.2 injectors will work. Not easy to remove, but, will work. This way you have matched injectors IF the 6.2 injectors are good.

That's a lot of blowby. Combined with the rear main oil seal leak the engine could have worn bearings. A set of rings would help it a lot. You may as well put a chain on it: No question it's stretched out.

Again pull the 93's engine and see what you have first.
 
Yeah I'm sure it was steam now. Now that I've tried blowing some pressure into the cylinders and filling the block with water I think that part is ok now. it's the sputter and puffs of raw diesel as it's running I'm seeing coming out the manifolds from the funny idle.

I'm sure the timing is off and the chain is sloppy too. I think I might try bumping the IP just a smig one way or the other and see if that clears up so it can idle smooth.

before I can attempt to pull the engine from the 93, I need to make some changes to the homemade A-frame I built out of landscape timbers. and also get me a chain hoist instead of using a come-a-long.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yeah I'm sure it was steam now. Now that I've tried blowing some pressure into the cylinders and filling the block with water I think that part is ok now. it's the sputter and puffs of raw diesel as it's running I'm seeing coming out the manifolds from the funny idle.

I'm sure the timing is off and the chain is sloppy too. I think I might try bumping the IP just a smig one way or the other and see if that clears up so it can idle smooth.

before I can attempt to pull the engine from the 93, I need to make some changes to the homemade A-frame I built out of landscape timbers. and also get me a chain hoist instead of using a come-a-long.
Click to expand...
110 volt Electric hoist would be nice.

I could send You the timing chain and sprockets out of the engine from the 2000, if it would be a correct fit.
I can check the log, but, I doubt it is 15000 miles on that and probably less.
 
I think the timing sets are the same, not sure about the spacing though, I know the timing covers are different as well as the HB and the spacer behind them. If I do attempt to run this engine I will need to swap to the newer style timing cover, spacer/reluctor and HB so I will have the front crank sensor in the block.

all this is present on the 93's engine though there is a small coolant leak between the block and timing cover on it. kinda afraid to tear into it for this small leak since when I found the crossover on it had an ear broken and welded back in place! no telling what i'll find tearing the 93's engine apart!!
 
dbrannon79 said:
spacer/reluctor and HB so I will have the front crank sensor in the block.
Click to expand...
1993 doesn't need it. The water pump, reverse rotation or not, and it's backplate are a different. I have run a 6.2L cover on a 1993. I believe the chain oil splash deflector for the CDR was the only thing I left out of the 6.2 dropped into the 1993 because it wasn't needed. Other than the water pump there really isn't a difference to worry about.

The 1994+ DS4 do require a sensor. Even then I believe you can use a timing set from a DS4 on a 1993 with the spacer toothed wheel.
 
dbrannon79 said:
The reason mine needs it is due to the EZ-TCI trans controller needing the crank sensor.
Click to expand...

Can they also run this off the oil pump drive sensor the 1993's had? (And used for the factory ECM controlling the 4L80E)

Maybe whatever parts are in the best shape is the question as the oil pump drive sensor would crack the housing. (I sealed mine up with RTV.)
 
Yeah, mine has the oil pump drive sensor and is leaking oil. I'm actually afraid to pull it to try and seal the leak due to that little plastic coupler that mates the oil pump and it together. but back when I was trying to fix the TCM wires, I tried and could not get a signal from it. that's when I went for the front crank sensor instead. maybe there is a way to fix the oil pump drive sensor without replacing?
 
I figured I better update this thread for this engine as I finally got around to doing a compression test. using a weak starter I had and mediocre batteries with my shop charger on boost I got some numbers. is was cranking slow but I kept cranking until the gauge stopped moving.

#1 = 290 #2 = 300
#3 = 300 #4 = 320
#5 = 310 #6 = 280
#7 = 320 #8 = 300

I feel like if it was cranking faster with a healthy starter I would have seen slightly higher numbers.
 
I would look for a running, used vehicle.

I don't know if these are still coming up on government actions or vehicle auctions or not.

Do you have any car dealer or rebuilder friends that go to the auctions?

Deals can be had.

I had a few State of Illinois trucks, I sold to a friend. He scrapped them all out. Another friend, ended up with what we thought was the best engine. It has been sitting several years. At the time it started at the hit of the key and shut down the same.

To me, that was always the sign of a good engine

I don't remember much more about it.

It may have been a 2000. I had a few of them between 1997 and 2000. IIRC
 
Na, don't know anyone with a dealer license that can bid at auctions. I have seen some on the car-parts site but those are online junkyards. some offer 30 and 60 day warranties but for the most part it's a risk as well.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Na, don't know anyone with a dealer license that can bid at auctions. I have seen some on the car-parts site but those are online junkyards. some offer 30 and 60 day warranties but for the most part it's a risk as well.
Click to expand...
Go here and get registered.
There are quite a few Hummers and engines come available in Texas.
And You can register and bid on them Yourself.

Government Surplus, Military Surplus & Humvees for Sale | GovPlanet

Buy construction equipment, Humvees, trucks, uniforms & field gear, home & office goods, medical equipment, unclaimed property & more. All sales open to the public.
www.govplanet.com www.govplanet.com
 
Directly with that- here are trucks up for auction:

Government Pickup Truck Auctions | GovPlanet

Hit the road with a pickup truck at GovPlanet today! We are your source for government truck auctions & great surplus truck prices. Browse today!
www.govplanet.com www.govplanet.com

HummerH1 (eric) buys hmmwvs at the cali auction- he can tell you about the process.
 
Yea there's a lot on there. several hummve in texas.. my problem is if I managed to get one, I would not part it out for the truck, I'd want to drive it LOL. didn't see any take out engines though. several onan, cat, and cummins engines on there.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yea there's a lot on there. several hummve in texas.. my problem is if I managed to get one, I would not part it out for the truck, I'd want to drive it LOL. didn't see any take out engines though. several onan, cat, and cummins engines on there.
Click to expand...
I have come to the conclusion it is a mistake buying a take out engine from the military.
There was a large campaign to update older hmmwvs - basically refresh them regardless of if the engine was good or not- to get them all up to the turbo power and 4 speed level.
When that was happening there was a lot of take out natural aspiration engines. This is identifiable by having the intake manifold that looks the same as the truck lower intake manifold.
But once you see it is a centermount turbo engine- this engine came out for a reason almost every time.

If you get a hmmwv- MAKE SURE you file for the paperwork SF-97. That is like the military bill of sale. The paperwork is the same value as the title to your truck.

Many hmmwv owners replace the 6.5 with a cummins, dmax, or LS engine.
So selling a hmmwv without an engine but with the SF-97 should mean your net cost is still only a grand and almost all have under 10,000 miles, majority around 5,000 miles.

A couple of things to try:
Steelsoldiers.com is a forum for ex military rig owners and plenty of hmmwv guys are there. Sign up, start familiarizing yourself with the guys incase there is a steaksauce type of guy to avoid- but you might find take out engines that are good from there. Texas being a pro hmmwv state and descent amount of auction hmmwvs there - you might work out some smokin deal.
If you get a centermount turbo engine- it’s not bad to loose that turbo, and a little plumbing to make that intake work.

Mark owns ModMafia.com and is in Texas. He owns a mechanic shop that works on Hummers/hmmwvs as well as vipers and some other exotics. His shop is a high dollar shop and as you see his 6.5 parts prices online- he is not shooting for the first time buyer type customer- but he might come up with a descent 6.5 take out from time to time so a call or email to him might get a good result.

A lot of the hummer and hmmwv crowd is 20 year old crowd now that doesn’t do normal forums. More Facebook and other short post social media that doesn’t have searchable database for reference information- I don’t follow any of it, just hear guys mentioning it from time to time. Maybe look into that arena for a low mileage unit where they want high powered conversion.

A type of hmmwv to look for is the ones that have the grille that sticks out past the hood- where the grille stays put when the hood is opened. These have a much larger radiator, larger fan at an angle behind it so the engine doesn’t get overheated to the point it destroys itself (cracked block or heads form heat). You will not find cracked main webs in military engines just because they simply don’t get the mileage on them.

The military does run them hot enough that they shorten the ring life so I would still expect any military used 6.5 with 1,000 miles on it to get early blow by. I would say at about 1/3 to 1/2 the normal time. But that makes it a great candidate for a re-ring job. Pull apart, new gapless rings, new head gasket & tty bolts in heads, everyones favorite valve cover annoyance, 24volt ip stuff off for 12v stuff or your ds4 depending on situation. Clean out the flashing. Use your thermostat crossover, front engine brackets, exhaust manifolds & turbo, etc.

While inside there it’s your call if you drop ship bearings to TSP for coatings and have the rotating assembly balanced, maybe the bolt mod in place of the plastic rocker arm retainers.

Absolutely you can just swap on your parts without opening it up- but the weekend or two spent and the extra few hundred dollars at least for the flashing removal and new gapless rings is basically buying you the miles from 175,000-300,000 mile range delaying the problems currently faced.

As to daily driving a hmmwv- again the better choice is that separate grille looking one. 12 mpg. Tires are stupid expensive. The 2 door ones have the 8’ bed, 4 door has a 3’ bed- all beds are 4’ wide between fenders. The brakes wear out faster, but front brake pad job is done in 20 minutes after you done it once or twice. Rear brakes take as long as a pickup but require a couple special tools. You don’t remove wheels or jack up the truck for brake jobs, oil changes, anything under the truck is done easily on the ground. Idler arms wear out faster. Some models so do pitman arms- but if you leave the tires at 37” tall and 12,5” wide- even the older units get 75,000 miles from them. Mine because I grease every oil change lasted 140,000 miles so I don’t think thats bad- when guys go to 40” tires or 14” wide tires- thats when they get bad quickly- or do the insane off road stuff- normal offroad use doesn’t hurt, actually helps them and ball joints & suck last longer flexing the rubber and spreading the grease.

All hummers/hmmwvs should replace the spindle nuts to the “blue hummer lock nuts”. That’s pricey @$580 but is a one time fix.

Is it practical- if you keep it db2, diy your own fuel - yup. And resell value is always there. Look up hmmwvs for sale- a few offroad lights, a winch, flashy rim/tire and a little interior work. Now spray on shiny paint and it is a money maker. If I was physically able bodied- I would buy and flip them from auction.
My beat up self has been the main reason mine has been apart for years.

If you can work on your truck on the weekends and have no problem going to work on Monday- there is money to be made. I wouldn’t pull the engine in flipping them. Just doll them up. If a guy could buy two at an auction- fix one up and sell it- the profit would pay from both to be done up. One with bling and the other for a keeper.
The key is living in a state that lets you register them for normal on road use. Nevada does not. If it did I would hire a 18 year old to spin the wrenches and just supervise. Less profit but still would make a profit. Each state has their own rules on how many per year. I don’t know any 18 year olds that like to wrench who wouldn’t do it after hours of a McJob and on weekends to do it for the knowledge and to earn his own outright after having built & sold 3 for me…but understand your training your own future competitor because the money becomes obvious quickly.
 
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