993500
New Member
If there is anyone of you that live near me and would be willing to help that would be great. I'm willing to learn but not at the expense of messing something up.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
New to diesel 1999 gmc 3500 6.5l turbo diesel
- Thread starter 993500
- Start date
993500
New Member
Sorry for my late replies. The smoke varies in color mostly blue on start up but sometimes gray and bluish gray on acceleration.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'd be checking them injectors out
Will L.
Well-Known Member
$900? under $500. One Saturday if you've never done it before.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/bosch-injector-set-of-8-brand-new-no-core/
What do you guys think time wise for 1st time, 5 hours?
We can walk you through it.
That's when you get to that point. One step at a time. After the air leak is fixed.
Well take $out of your mechanics pocket and keep it in yours.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/bosch-injector-set-of-8-brand-new-no-core/
What do you guys think time wise for 1st time, 5 hours?
We can walk you through it.
That's when you get to that point. One step at a time. After the air leak is fixed.
Well take $out of your mechanics pocket and keep it in yours.
Last edited:
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Have you ever changed spark plugs before? Same thing.
993500
New Member
Just got the o rings yesterday. I might try and fix the leak myself this weekend. Still working on getting money for the injectors. I have changed spark plugs before. What kind of socket do I need for those?
993500
New Member
What size fuel line and how much for the lines on the fuel filter bowl?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Injectors need a 30 mm socket. I like the ones with wrench flats. You do need to make sure the socket if fully seated as you can break the return nipples if you get it cocked. The fuel lines IIRC are 1/4 and 3/8. Make sure you buy good quality diesel rated hoses and even better biodiesel compatible.
jrsavoie
Recruit
You can do the new injectors yourself for about $500 or less
99 should be 3/8 supply. 5/16 to IP and 1/4 drain. Might as well do the return line behind FFM to, its 5/16
Hardest part is getting the turbo out of the way.
Use the clamps on the return lines, no matter what lies return line kit sellers use. Air leaks and fuel leaks are possible in time without clamps with Bio use or high temps. PN here:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/part-s-for-6-5.629/page-2#post-492566
Use the clamps on the return lines, no matter what lies return line kit sellers use. Air leaks and fuel leaks are possible in time without clamps with Bio use or high temps. PN here:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/part-s-for-6-5.629/page-2#post-492566
jrsavoie
Recruit
It is 1/4", 5/16" & 3/8" I think you need 4', 2' and 2' respectively. But I may have that wrong. It's been a while
993500
New Member
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Tuff lookin. Also nice the fog lights are not in the radiator air holes needed for cooling.
Keep us updated.
Keep us updated.
993500
New Member
Going to get some fuel line this morning hopefully will have the leak fixed in short order.
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
welcome to the site!
First things first, remove the spectre air filter and return the airbox back to stock with the lid and everything. GM suprisingly gave us a well flowing factory cold air intake that filters excellently. If you want more flow, like said above, Leroydiesel.com sells a high flow filter that will allow you to keep using the airbox as intended, but with more airflow.
Secondly, I see you are missing the filter restriction indicator. Replace Immediately!!!
IDK if the vaccum values are the same, but one off a 96+ vortec gasser would at least fit the hole properly and plug it.
As of right now, with nothing in that hole, you are sucking dirt!!!!!
3rd, like said above, return the turbo back to vaccum control. Your mpg will improve and the computer will be happy. If you are going all out with it, no use wasting money going too far with the OEM turbo, save up your $ for a big housing turbo. Alot of guys love the ATT, and it is sold by Leroydiesel.com
If you are in a hurry and needed it yesterday, the dealer is a good place for o-rings for the fuel system, they will be correct, but will not be cheap. If you had a bit of time to allow freighting some in, Leroydiesel.com sells a o-ring kit for the filter housing.
You may have messed up changing the o-ring on the optical sensor, as the OS needs to be precisely located, I believe to properly replace it, one needs to send it off to a pump shop and have them dial in the new sensor via a test stand. Time will tell though.
As a new 6.5L owner, make certain to inspect the harmonic damper and the oil cooler lines. Many a good 6.5L have been killed by either of those going bad, so its quite important.
I like the stainless oil cooler lines and Fluidampr from Leroydiesel, but if you are trying to fix it on a budget, I would go with no less than GM oil cooler lines.
IIRC the cost of the factory GM big lines on the 97+ piston jet cooling blocks will exceed the cost of Leroy's lines, so that makes it a no-brainer to go with Leroy's. On a 95 with the small ports that I was fixing on a budget for re-sale, I went with some GM lines and they were cheap. made in china, and probably gonna leak in less than 5 years, but better than what was on there.
For a budget damper, a AC Delco off Rockauto.com would be my first choice.
If you have ANY question related to your pickup, feel free to ask. Many folks on this forum are happy and willing to help, and enjoy helping someone fix an issue without wasting a dime.
I know that thanks to these forums, I have learned the 6.5L enough to have excellent luck with them, not making hardly any mistakes, because someone before me has made such mistakes and has learned from them, and was nice enough to pass on the info to save future owners time, money, and grief.
Good luck and welcome to the site!
First things first, remove the spectre air filter and return the airbox back to stock with the lid and everything. GM suprisingly gave us a well flowing factory cold air intake that filters excellently. If you want more flow, like said above, Leroydiesel.com sells a high flow filter that will allow you to keep using the airbox as intended, but with more airflow.
Secondly, I see you are missing the filter restriction indicator. Replace Immediately!!!
IDK if the vaccum values are the same, but one off a 96+ vortec gasser would at least fit the hole properly and plug it.
As of right now, with nothing in that hole, you are sucking dirt!!!!!
3rd, like said above, return the turbo back to vaccum control. Your mpg will improve and the computer will be happy. If you are going all out with it, no use wasting money going too far with the OEM turbo, save up your $ for a big housing turbo. Alot of guys love the ATT, and it is sold by Leroydiesel.com
If you are in a hurry and needed it yesterday, the dealer is a good place for o-rings for the fuel system, they will be correct, but will not be cheap. If you had a bit of time to allow freighting some in, Leroydiesel.com sells a o-ring kit for the filter housing.
You may have messed up changing the o-ring on the optical sensor, as the OS needs to be precisely located, I believe to properly replace it, one needs to send it off to a pump shop and have them dial in the new sensor via a test stand. Time will tell though.
As a new 6.5L owner, make certain to inspect the harmonic damper and the oil cooler lines. Many a good 6.5L have been killed by either of those going bad, so its quite important.
I like the stainless oil cooler lines and Fluidampr from Leroydiesel, but if you are trying to fix it on a budget, I would go with no less than GM oil cooler lines.
IIRC the cost of the factory GM big lines on the 97+ piston jet cooling blocks will exceed the cost of Leroy's lines, so that makes it a no-brainer to go with Leroy's. On a 95 with the small ports that I was fixing on a budget for re-sale, I went with some GM lines and they were cheap. made in china, and probably gonna leak in less than 5 years, but better than what was on there.
For a budget damper, a AC Delco off Rockauto.com would be my first choice.
If you have ANY question related to your pickup, feel free to ask. Many folks on this forum are happy and willing to help, and enjoy helping someone fix an issue without wasting a dime.
I know that thanks to these forums, I have learned the 6.5L enough to have excellent luck with them, not making hardly any mistakes, because someone before me has made such mistakes and has learned from them, and was nice enough to pass on the info to save future owners time, money, and grief.
Good luck and welcome to the site!
993500
New Member
Thanks for the warm welcome GM GUY. Yesterday I replaced the o ring for the fuel heater and water in fuel sensor. I also put in a boost gage. I will put the waste gate back on today as well as reinstall the air box today if it stops raining long enough. The west coast mirrors were on the truck when I bought it I like them being that I am a truck driver just have to hook up the heaters.
993500
New Member
993500
New Member
Just ordered a 4" diamond eye turbo back exhaust from KT performance got it for $236 with free shipping. from what I hear that's one of the best exhaust systems for our trucks. Should I also order a new cross over tube as well? The kit comes with a 3 in down pipe.