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New to diesel 1999 gmc 3500 6.5l turbo diesel

Should have the money today for the injectors. Gotta take it in as they are very rusty I don't wanna take a chance on breaking anything.
 
Should have the exhaust tomorrow does anybody know what size bolts are on there cause I'm sure some of them are going to break when I try to remove them.
 
No idea on bolt sizes. When I have to heat something I keep a squirt bottle of Simple Green nearby - and a fire extinguisher

For things that need heated. I have my best luck with Sea Foam in a pump bottle or Sea Foam Deep Creep aerosol - It's the exact same product. The only difference is packaging.

I also plug the block heater in before starting most jobs. Everything moves better when It's warm
 
Ok, before you even get started on the exhaust, I would fix the fuel leaks and get the truck driveable, and then start appling PB blaster to the bolts every day for a week, and keep driving it, making everything heat up and cool down. Stands a much better chance of not breaking.

Leroy provided the link for the injectors, no matter if you do it yourself of hire it out, I would highly suggest buying the injectors, rather than let the shop choose god knows what for brand. They could be buying you junk ebay marine injectors "cuz they though you wanted more power". The best injectors are stock output genuine Bosch. They can last over 100K miles. cheap junk source from unknown locations can die in as little as 20K miles.

The less opportunity you give anyone to mess something up, the lower the chances are of it happening, so you need to buy the parts to make sure you get the right stuff, then their only job is to install without destroying. Many people have the perfect recipe of parts here, with a bunch of experience. Who knows what the shop has. Many shops love Cummins and trash talk the 6.5L, because they dont know squat about them. (another reason everyone here is trying to encourage you to DIY :) )

So, IMO I would put the exhaust on the back burner, the current setup is doing fine for now.
Next, I would gather parts and tools to prep for a fuel system tune up. Get the hoses for the filter to pump and filter to water drain, etc. new injectors, injector install kit (copper washers and return lines) injector line wrench, and injector socket. play it safe and get new intake gaskets too, they are dirt cheap (usually under 15 bucks on ebay for genuine GM).

Then, while the intake is off to change the rubber lines that are leaking, it is a perfect opportunity to loosen the lines and change the injectors. You can bend the lines with the intake on, but then they might start rubbing each other, so if a guy can do it easily, its best to loosen the lines when changing injectors.

To do the actual injectors, I find it easiest to pull the turbo, others pull the inner fender. Using the proper socket makes it much easier, IIRC I used the special socket and a regular box end wrench, didnt even use a breaker bar or ratchet on the right side.

My last injector job was in the dead of winter, with the pickup stuffed in my grandma's garage, only far enough to get the cab in, so it was completely un-heated. It took me about 3 days, but that was waiting till afternoon for it to be the least cold, and knocking off around 4, numerous trips in an out to warm hands. IIRC I had to run to town a few times for supplies, as I was not at home where I had everything. In much better conditions, such as a warm summer day, or a heated garage that could fully house the pickup with plenty of light, I bet I could have had it whipped in a day.
 
Yeah, I can't do anything in the cold- which to me is anything below 50. Big fat coat and long johns and I'm good to 42. Below that? HAH! Singing the campfire song.

He mentioned the line wrench, don't gloss over that. Do not use a regular wrench to break free the injector line nuts. Do the tool loan program from orilleys or what ever part store near you.
 
I like to pull the intakes, inner fender and turbo for the job. And never seize all the hardware WHEN PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER.

I do not ever like bending injector lines.

In my opinion, if you are doing injectors, it is a good time to do valve covers you can mark the injector lines and remove them completely
 
I can't offer much advice on how to do most of these things but trust all these guys, they know what they're talking about and have helped me out tremendously, if not by asking questions, just by spending ridiculous amounts of time browsing all the different threads. [emoji3]
 
Well the truck has been in the shop since Wednesday. He found that the fuel pressure is a little low he also fount a fuel leak somewhere on the injection pump. Told him to go ahead and fix it.
 
993500 said:
Well the truck has been in the shop since Wednesday. He found that the fuel pressure is a little low he also fount a fuel leak somewhere on the injection pump. Told him to go ahead and fix it.
Click to expand...

Be very careful on the IP leak. If they are going to exchange the pump be dammed sure where they are exchanging it from. Lots and lots of crap pump rebuilds out there that are nothing but used worn out junk trouble.
 
Oh, on pump exchange you can remove the drive gear bolts through the oil filler hole by rotating the engine - do not pay to have the timing cover cover removed - the thing that is the water pump backing plate.
 
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