Mikey von
Member
What are the correct procedures for starting and breaking in a newly rebuilt engine (6.2L TD)?
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
New/rebuild engine start up and break-in?
- Thread starter Mikey von
- Start date
Fill with regular 40w oil. Add a high zinc additive in also. Prime oil system prior to any cranking with the starter. Once you get oil coming out the top of all the push rods.. the oil system is good to go. Take note of what the oil pressure is while priming the system..... use this as a reference once the engine is actually running.
At the injection pump.. crack open the feed line and run the lift pump until you get fuel coming out at the fitting. Tighten the fitting back up.
Make sure both batteries have a good charge and you have a good battery charger that has starting mode.
If you have a chemical pump sprayer this part work the best.... fill the pump sprayer with a vouple of gallons of fuel... Take the air cleaner off... with the battery charger hooked up and running... have a buddy crank the motor over... once the motor has spun a couple timea start spraying in fuel thru the intake.... the motor will sputter and stumble alot.... once it sounds like it is trying to run.. stop the starter but keep spraying fuel in... trying to keep the motor running. You will have to do this a few times as it will stall on you. You are trying to purge the air out of the injectors at this point. You can crack the individual lines at the injector if you want prior to starting if you want to help things along.
Like I say thus will take some time...hence the need for the charge to be hooked up and running on START.
Once it is running on its own...check for leaks ans monitor the oil pressure. Once on the road drive for about 500 miles and change the oil for what you will normally run. There will be alot of shiny bits in the drain oil.... normal. Change the oil again after another 1500 miles to a full synthetic if you'd like at this time... but not before. Regular dino oil at both the initial and 500 mile spots. Synthetic oil will not allow the rings to seat properly. You could put a magnet on the oil filter during all this also ifyou wanted to...
At the injection pump.. crack open the feed line and run the lift pump until you get fuel coming out at the fitting. Tighten the fitting back up.
Make sure both batteries have a good charge and you have a good battery charger that has starting mode.
If you have a chemical pump sprayer this part work the best.... fill the pump sprayer with a vouple of gallons of fuel... Take the air cleaner off... with the battery charger hooked up and running... have a buddy crank the motor over... once the motor has spun a couple timea start spraying in fuel thru the intake.... the motor will sputter and stumble alot.... once it sounds like it is trying to run.. stop the starter but keep spraying fuel in... trying to keep the motor running. You will have to do this a few times as it will stall on you. You are trying to purge the air out of the injectors at this point. You can crack the individual lines at the injector if you want prior to starting if you want to help things along.
Like I say thus will take some time...hence the need for the charge to be hooked up and running on START.
Once it is running on its own...check for leaks ans monitor the oil pressure. Once on the road drive for about 500 miles and change the oil for what you will normally run. There will be alot of shiny bits in the drain oil.... normal. Change the oil again after another 1500 miles to a full synthetic if you'd like at this time... but not before. Regular dino oil at both the initial and 500 mile spots. Synthetic oil will not allow the rings to seat properly. You could put a magnet on the oil filter during all this also ifyou wanted to...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Only thing I might offer different opinion is: Plug in the block warmer and let the coolant warm-up for easier starting. Remove the glow plugs. Cranking over until you get a mist of fuel coming out of the cylinders. Battery chargers while cranking have been known to burn glow plugs anyways, and the lack of compression will allow the engine to spin over much faster priming the fuel much quicker. Then you can put the glow plugs back and let them heat up and fire it up. With the engine idling,crack the injector line nuts one at a time to bleed out any trapped air. If I don't start try cracking the all the injector lines and tighten them up one at a time while someone else is cranking over the engine has the fuel was spraying out it will fire right up.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Once running cruise around but vary speed/rpm and dont run at steady RPM for too long. After around 3K miles I would try pulling a light load to heat the rings up some.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Get it running by doing the above, I wouldn't spray anything down the intake. Idling kills ring seating, so get it started, let the thermostat open, make sure its leak free, go drive it. I always do the Hastings ring seat thing, 2/3 rd gear, pin it, get the revs up then chop the gas, do this 30 times or so then I change the oil and filter, then drive like I stole it, this seats the rings as it takes pressure to seat them. Avoid the same rpm, IE 2500 rpm for hours until around 2500 miles, then all bets are off.