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New Injector Pump

toddlnrd

toddlnrd

My first diesel!
Messages
209
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16
Location
Garner, NC
I am going to install my new/rebuilt injector pump tomorrow.

Any advice, tips or links would be very helpful.

Thank you,

Todd
 
There's a good vid floating around on Yootoobe.. (can't remember the author)

I guess it depends on how far your engine is torn down right now..
 
It's not that hard of a job. If you have crows foot wrenches, that makes the inj lines easier. Don't be super paranoid about screwing up your gear timing.. The stuff fits tight enough in their prospective housings that this is not a concern.

vid:

[video=youtube;vFz6YyNWKns]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFz6YyNWKns[/video]
 
Thanks for the tips, video and encouragement.

All are much needed.

A little nervous about this, don't want to screw up the family vehicle.

Todd
 
Intake manifold - can be removed without taking the halves apart - leave in the top 6 10mm bolts.
You can rotate the engine backwards by the alternator pulley. With the oil fill tube removed you can get to the three gear drive bolts. Use a magnet on the socket to keep from dropping the bolts in the engine. A mirror is required.

A 15mm ratchet wrench helps with IP bolts. Good luck getting around the dual stat housing. A 5/8 crows foot will be required for IP lines. (1999 DS4's may be different size than my 1993.)

Have 1/4 fuel line on hand to replace the fuel line.
 
Also the 3 bolts in the IP timing gear are spaced so that they will only bolt up one way. The dowel can find the 'other' hole but the bolts will make sure it's timed.

The only real danger is dropping a bolt down into the timing cover... and the milk crate slipping out from under you..
 
3500GMC said:
Also the 3 bolts in the IP timing gear are spaced so that they will only bolt up one way. The dowel can find the 'other' hole but the bolts will make sure it's timed.

The only real danger is dropping a bolt down into the timing cover... and the milk crate slipping out from under you..
Click to expand...

Use the bumper nose holes - not a milk crate!!!

When you pull the pump out resist the urge to spin the IP driveshaft. You want to time the "new" pump driveshaft to the old pump so the drive gear slips on. It is possible to get the tang in the wrong hole, but, the bolts will not all go in. If you match the new pump up with the old one it saves a lot of time.
 
Wow, what a job!! I finally got the IP installed, but have problems. I have it all put together (thanks for the tips). Used a chair, IP holes lined up just right, biggest PITA was the metal injector lines!!!!!!

Anyway, no wait to start light, no glow plug cycling and no lift pump running. What could this be?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Todd
 
Finally got my truck running again (although rough, needs timing adjustment).

With the encouragement of Tim, aka Turbine Doc, I pulled the intake back off and found that I had pinched the three wires of the OPS together. I checked their continuity, cleaned and taped them up, replaced the OPS and made sure there were no other wires/lines pinched in the manifold.

Thanks,
Todd
 
Glad to have been able to assist Todd,

For "Rest of the Story" I've been working 10-16 hrs a day last couple of months 94 hours last week I'm a little whupped up after last week.

Todd managed to get up with me at break times and we did some over the phone diagnostics, He's getting very good at pulling the intake now, 1st to remove for IP, 2nd to remove for pinched wires, and 3rd time a charm to replace the OPS.

After describing the work to complete the IP swap and no start, I suggested jumpering the test lead of the lift pump to the 12V aux terminal to make sure IP/fuel filter mgr was fully primed, he called back "the big 30A aux fuse blew"......No way says I.

Hmnnnnn....... that wasn't doing that before and jumpering to the aux terminal should not pop the fuse unless........ Did you possibly pinch a wire when intake was off then back on ????

Yup the OPS wires, removed intake fixed those, replaced PCM fuses, truck starts/runs but no oil pressure indicated......."That's not good says I", (1 of 2 things) the dash meter blew or the tiny wires in the OPS itself blew due the direct short to gnd.

The latter was the culprit new OPS corrected the issue, he only has to re-time it now.

With regard to OPS removal any OBD-II guys know of a better way than removing the intake to get the OPS off the engine, Todd could only get to it with an OPS socket with intake off, which is only way I've removed them when I do IP swaps I replace the OPS as a preventative maintenance action since I'm already there.
 
I have always used a basin wrench on the OPS. Lowes sells one that fits on a 3/8 extension and it works well at least on my 97. Have same issue with pinched wire, I believe. Thanks for input TD.
 
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