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Need some electrical info from the experts

I have removed every fuse, relay, breaker, alternator, e c m and every wire I can find. I also removed another 20 ft. of hacked wiring. I don't blame the truck for hating humans, hell I'd hate them to if someone done all of that to me. Look guys, I'm in a rabbit hole here and can't see anything else around me. Parasitic draw is still around 7.5 to 8 amps. If anyone has any ideas as to what I do next please advise. Thanks gentlemen, I need all the help I can get.
 
Yeah I followed that process for two day, amp meter on passenger side while I pulled fuses and everything else one at a time. It's 3:15 am and I'm studying wiring schematics. Thats just plain sad. Thanks Mr. Marty, please keep this in the back of your head and if you come up with anything else please throw it up and see if it sticks. Richard
 
backyard method is keep doing what you are doing- check 1 circuit at a time.

In a shop a guy would own powerprobe3 kit with the open/short tester in it. If anyone does any amount of electrical testing, or working on half way modern vehicles, get one.
 
I have pulled one fuse at a time in search of a draw. On one I started disconnecting the fusible links one at a time and at least found the circuit where the draw was coming from.
 
Mr. Marty, which fuseable links are you referencing to? If you can please give me an idea that will be my starting point tomorrow.
Will L., that looks like a good tool to have. I don't know any body that works in the service departments now. I kinda lost contact with with them after I left Ford. I'll call a friend tomorrow that is a field service electrical engineer working for Cat, but I don't hold out much hope.
Gentlemen I really appreciate all the help you both have offered. I know you are spending your off work personal time to help a total strainger, a trait rarley found in today's world. When I say that I appreciate your help I damn well mean it. Thank y'all very much, Richard.
 
Richard Grant said:
Mr. Marty, which fuseable links are you referencing to? If you can please give me an idea that will be my starting point tomorrow.
Will L., that looks like a good tool to have. I don't know any body that works in the service departments now. I kinda lost contact with with them after I left Ford. I'll call a friend tomorrow that is a field service electrical engineer working for Cat, but I don't hold out much hope.
Gentlemen I really appreciate all the help you both have offered. I know you are spending your off work personal time to help a total strainger, a trait rarley found in today's world. When I say that I appreciate your help I damn well mean it. Thank y'all very much, Richard.
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I am not familiar with the year and model of Your truck.
The fusable links are hooked to a live battery source and will be a different colored wire than the color code of the wire that they are feeding. Some of them will have a tab on them that states fusable link.
Sometimes there might be one or two right off the starter lug, sometimes there will be one hooked to the alternator primary battery wire.
if Your truck has the positive buss bar on the right side firewall, there may be several of them on the lugs of the buss bar.
Maybe someone more familiar can explain it better than I.
 
Yeah that's what I thought. I still have the starter laying on the table after I repaired it. The first fuseable link I saw was the red wire from the +battery cable to the alternator, but having the alternator unpluged isolates, right? With the starter being removed I would think if there was a link close to the starter it too would be isolated, correct?
I guess I'll get back at it tomorrow with a clearer head
 
If the fusible link goes direct to the battery from the alternator then that link would be for the charging system only, unless there would be other wires connected into the line.
 
UPDATE, PROBLEM FOUND!!! My son checked everything I was doing to make sure of the readings we were seeing. Recalibrated the Fluke then we got started. Connected probes to cables, fluke set on 10 amps D.C. When the probes were connected I saw the system be energized with reading of 0.18 and dropping to .06 once energized. He's under the truck laughing asking me if I left anything plugged up. The last time I worked on it I let emotions get the better of me and just started unplugging everything I saw. Didn't bother checking as I went or after I finished. He starts reconnecting plugs and then it shows up, a strange looking trailer brake controller. Unplugged and draw was gone. He unbolted the box, plugged it up and said it had a humm to it. He traced the lead back to the fuse panel under the hood and found the lead with a U terminal forced into a constant hot under the panel. Wire and controller removed, all other plugs connected and zip tied. Reading after energizing the system the readings are.06 - .07 miliamp. Now I can finish putting the mechanical back together and maybe drive it this week to check out the new transmission.
Thank you all for the help!! Your advice and suggestions really helped me along. Y'all are a great bunch. A very tired Richard.
 
IMG_20171102_184553857.jpg Well I have hit another stumbling block. Can anybody please tell me where this heat shild locates? I feel totally STUPID needing to ask such an asinine question. It has been a lot of years since I worked on a Chevy. The shield was not bolted in place when we removed the trannie. I also found two harness brackets laying on the rear of the intake. These were easy, bolted to bell housing and harness runs thru hole.
I am so damn tired of fixing stuff that no one ever notices. My son looked at this evening and asked if I had done anything else to it. If I could have gotten my foot up that high I would have kicked his big tall a$$.
Rant over, if some body can tell me I don't care if y'all laugh at me, I just want to finish and do some things that I can see. Thanks for helping gentlemen.
K2500 H.D.
5.7. L
4L80 TRANNIE
 
I do not remember the location of the bolts that holds that shield in place, possibly bell housing bolts.
I do remember that it lays where the manifold is, towards the rear of the engine, shields heat from back of exhaust maneeefold.
 
Yeah I tried the bell housing pattern and will not match. I tried around the starter,no go. Talked to my brother, he was unbolting that side, and he said it was laying on top of the starter. He is very good and I believe what he said. I've got good plans for the truck if I can get this B S stuff repaired. As usual thanks man, I'm just a little pi$$ed at the crappy work that has been done on it. Thanks again Buddy. Richard
 
Richard Grant said:
Yeah I tried the bell housing pattern and will not match. I tried around the starter,no go. Talked to my brother, he was unbolting that side, and he said it was laying on top of the starter. He is very good and I believe what he said. I've got good plans for the truck if I can get this B S stuff repaired. As usual thanks man, I'm just a little pi$$ed at the crappy work that has been done on it. Thanks again Buddy. Richard
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I`ll look at My truck and see just how that piece fits in, probably be late morning or early afternoon before I can get back into the forum.
 
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