• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My son's 1968 Chevy

While we had the tank out, I found out why the gauge doesn't work. the brass float seems to have split apart. I tested the sender and it works so there's that. also in doing a little research looking at the tank design and knowing the PO bought several parts from LMC I believe we have found the tank relocation kit that was installed.

it's the 21 gallon tank in this link.

and here is the install guide from another site.
 
Haven't updated anything since we haven't done anything more with his truck yet. hoping to hear some good news from the machine shop on Monday. at least maybe we can begin putting it back together next week.
 
Well some good news! got a phone call today from the machine shop telling me the head is ready for pickup. they had to replace 7 of the studs along with replacing guides and he said the valve seats were not of the hardened type made for unleaded fuel! so those got replaced too.

all in all it cost a grand total of $642.41 including new push rods and a gasket set. I asked about the head bolts if they are re-usable or TTY and he said they are all not TTY and can be re-used. he also mentioned to me to go 10ftlbs less on the torque for the front bolt at the thermostat housing because the block material is really thin and can crack the block. I will inspect that area before the install first.

plan is to take off work early on Friday and go pick it up. then pending weather, start getting ready to put his truck back together!
 
It was kinda interesting to me hearing about how much wear was on the guides and the seats since this engine only has just under 8k miles on it since when it was fully rebuilt by the same machine shop years ago. If course IDk what was done and not done at the PO's digression.
 
Yeah I figured it would be LOL, the PO did tell us that he installed the engine at the same time replacing the speedo which the odometer was at all zeros but he said that was many moons ago! he's a little older than I am and told us he has had this truck since he was 17 years old! must had been his first love before the misses came into the picture LOL
 
Well, I went to pickup the head and when I talked to the machinist, his office clerk was mistaken. the head wasn't ready yet. he said when he turned in the paperwork to the office, it was a list of repairs and all that was to be done and he mistook that for the job was complete. he said he would call me in the early part of next week, they should have it all finished up by then. I told him that was fine, don't rush it, I want it to be perfect!

I did however inquire about the 6.2 that I'm working on about what it would cost me to have it gone through, bored, and everything. he said it would be about $4k on the machine work with new pistons and all, and he knows a good local shop that would do the IP, but said I would be looking at about $7k give or take for it all to be ready to drop in and run including the IP redone.
 
A little late to the conversation, apologies.

Agree with Will, my vote is also to completely go through the engine. Cry once.

Did not know that the valve seats were individually replaceable. This might come in handy for a friend's old vehicle so that we can stop trying to find lead additives.



Thoughts:

If this truck is going to sit a fair amount of time, consider blending in some aviation fuel. Not for the higher octane or lead, but for the 2 year stability.

Given the mention of an EFI manufacturer who is now out of business and that the current unit is a little bit fussy, might consider swapping to a Sniper EFI by Holley. My mechanic raves about this unit.

And while on the EFI topic, here is a video which seems to do a reasonable job of describing why simply swapping to EFI is only part of the conversion:
 
My experience was the opposite. I put tbi on my 428cj got 13 mpg on the hwy. Started good, great throttle response. Then the TBI system started acting up and I finally carbed it.My mpg dropped to 9
 
The video's author did not seem to like EFI conversions either. At the same time, my mechanic loves the Holley product.

Do not have a dog in that hunt as only my garden tractors have carburetors. Everything else is injected by original design.
 
That's very interesting. I hadn't thought about that. This engine being a straight 6 still has the intake and exhaust manifolds that bolt together and allows the lower parts to be heated by the exhaust. I do have a plate that would block off that as well as a set of tubular headers that would turn the pipes into a dual exhaust. those headers are not samiched to the intake and are separated and bolted up the the head individually. the TBI setup only runs a single O2 sensor and that is the reason I haven't tried to install them. I would have to build a pipe that would join the two into one pipe for the O2 sensor.

Once I get the head back and start reassembly, I may need to do this and install the headers.
 
Back
Top