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My Plow Truck

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Well it's been awhile but I finally got my plow truck up and going. I bought the truck off CL about 1 year ago for $700. It's a 94 K1500 ECSB with 229k on the clock. I bought the plow about 2-3 years ago with intentions of putting it on my DD. I bought the plow for $500 cause it had been in a wreck and messed up the a frame and such. The truck had been parked outside so I went to move it in my shed/shop to work on it. I drove it to where it was parked and it fired up pretty easy but it wouldn't hardly move. Turns out the pass side rear wheel was stuck and wouldn't move. so I had to have my wife drive it while I pushed it with the hoe to get it in the shed. Turned out the shoe had broken at the rivets and a piece had wedged in locking it up. Kinda blew my mind since I drove it to where it was parked with no probs at all. It's an engine driven hyd pump but I didn't care much for the way it mounted or was driven. So I pulled off th AC pump and mounted it in it's place. Hardest part was finding the correct clutch for the pump. After many trips to the auto parts stores and searching the net I finally determined the correct one was off an 86 mustang with a v8. I also didn't like the flimsy hose mounting brackets so I drilled the bumper and installed the hose end quick connects there. Then back to the truck I swapped out the s manifold for an F and got a plowing chip from Buddy. So so far I have $700 for the truck $500 for the plow another $600 to fix plow and get the clutch $100 in tires off CL another $100 in misc parts and new rear shoes. So so far total investment is about $2000
 

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Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Hydraulics look nicely done. I'm sure she'll earn her keep. 700-800lbs of ballast in the rear should make her an animal.
 

bk95td

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Did you do anything to the front suspension to hold the extra weight of the plow? Good job on the hydraulics.
 

ak diesel driver

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No it's still stock. Ever have the wipers get out of time with each other? My pass side goes down about 1" after the drs side starts back up. Something else to do I guess.
 

Matt Bachand

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No it's still stock. Ever have the wipers get out of time with each other? My pass side goes down about 1" after the drs side starts back up. Something else to do I guess.
Yes I have, forgot all about it. Few years back, it was a nightmare for some reason, I remember it kicking my ass.
 

great white

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really like the pump mount and clutch!

I had the same idea with using an AC clutch.

I've got to install my mech pump on my 98 when I get back, but I'm planning to keep the AC on the truck.

My plow has the cable controled plow controller though......:(
 

ak diesel driver

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they only made the electric over hydraulic set up like mine for a few years. Then the DOT banned the use of under hood hydraulics. At least that's what they told me.
 

bk95td

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they only made the electric over hydraulic set up like mine for a few years. Then the DOT banned the use of under hood hydraulics. At least that's what they told me.
:???: Power steering and hydra-boost brakes are hydraulic:eek:
 

ak diesel driver

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Well it looks like I'll need to dive into the charging system now too. Driving around with nothing on it will show 14+volts. Turn on the headlights and heater and it'll go down to 12v
 

ak diesel driver

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Anybody tell me how to pull the ashtray assembly out? I removed 4 screws and it looks like something is still holding it from above. Don't want to break it
 

bk95td

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Well it looks like I'll need to dive into the charging system now too. Driving around with nothing on it will show 14+volts. Turn on the headlights and heater and it'll go down to 12v
Did you check volts at the batteries? The dash gauge in my 95 ld goes allover the place but the voltage at the batteries is good. I'm not positive if the 94s have the notorius bad connector behind the glove box but that was the problem on the 95. The connector with just red and black wires will melt inside. The connector is undersized. Elimiminate the connector with butte splice connectors.
 

mangus580

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Did you check volts at the batteries? The dash gauge in my 95 ld goes allover the place but the voltage at the batteries is good. I'm not positive if the 94s have the notorius bad connector behind the glove box but that was the problem on the 95. The connector with just red and black wires will melt inside. The connector is undersized. Elimiminate the connector with butte splice connectors.
Can you describe this notorious connector? Pictures? The volt meter in my 95 always runs very low, and I am curious if this is causing it.
 

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
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my 93 the volt gauge never reads the same. one time it will read 14 and the next down around 12 so i think they are just not very good gauges
 

88gmctruck

02GMCtruck
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Well, you got the 4 screws. There are 2 electrical connections, the outlet and the light above the ashtray itself, so you'll have to unplug those. The other thing, which is probably holding you up, is a black plastic loop that is connected to the ashtray that holds the dash wire loom in place. Honestly I don't know why it's there, I pulled mine out and never put it back.

Best way to get in there is to go in from behind. Pull the center vents out and you should be able to see it.
 

88gmctruck

02GMCtruck
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Well, you got the 4 screws. There are 2 electrical connections, the outlet and the light above the ashtray itself, so you'll have to unplug those. The other thing, which is probably holding you up, is a black plastic loop that is connected to the ashtray that holds the dash wire loom in place. Honestly I don't know why it's there, I pulled mine out and never put it back.

Best way to get in there is to go in from behind. Pull the center vents out and you should be able to see it.
 

buddy

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Thats a real nice setup. If you are in need of an alternator, I think it best to go with one of the improved 140amp CS-130 or a little bracketry and you can mount up a 140amp CS-144. there are version over 140amp as well.
 

ak diesel driver

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I'm still playing with the alt but I'll probably just put 1 of my spare stock ones on. The beauty of the engine driven hyd is very little power consumption. Also thanks again to David, ashtray came right out once I snipped the plastic tie. Got the dash all back together now.
 

NVW

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they only made the electric over hydraulic set up like mine for a few years. Then the DOT banned the use of under hood hydraulics. At least that's what they told me.
My bale feeding truck has a under hood hyd. pump similar to yours. All the bale trucks have that type of hyd. drive.

This American company offers the mounting kits for the hyd. pumps http://www.cwkits.com/
 
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