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My Nv4500 swap underway with a clutch problem

cub124

cub124

Half Moon Detroit #1
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Location
stormstown PA
As some of you may know I have started the nv4500 swap in my 82 k20, anyhow I switched to a hydro clutch and a 93 6.5 clutch. The clutch petal has full master cylinder depression, a new clutch line ran and a new slave cylinder. I have bled all the air out and was having problems getting the fork to move (trans is still out until the clutch is in working order) so I pulled back on the fork as far as I could which depressed the slave cyl. and the hydraulics started to work a little bit. I suspect the problem is the bran new slave cyl but Im not sure....this is why I wasn't looking forward to a hydro clutch :mad2:
 
alright will do, thanks. I also noticed the contact area of the 93 solid flywheel clutch is smaller much smaller then that of the 82 clutch and that the 93 dual mass clutch also had more contact area :thinking:

I would try to run the 82 clutch but I have heard that someone was having a problem using it with the nv4500
 
cub124 said:
alright will do, thanks. I also noticed the contact area of the 93 solid flywheel clutch is smaller much smaller then that of the 82 clutch and that the 93 dual mass clutch also had more contact area :thinking:

I would try to run the 82 clutch but I have heard that someone was having a problem using it with the nv4500
Click to expand...

I have no clue on that one, I have yet ripped my clutch out or seen the two side by side.

I would stay away from the duel mass if you can, I have read lots of negative things about them. They also do not seem to last very long.

I also have no clue what my truck has in it, I have been told it could have either one being a 93.

One day I will find out after spending many hours on my back under my truck! :(
 
my friends 93 was dual mass, that is how i know this clutch has less surface area ha. I was told by the P.O. mine had dual mass but it didn't. I also got the clutch to work this morning after getting fed up last night. I just find it really weird that in order to get it to work I have to pull back on the fork after it is bled unless I want to pump 1000 times. Once I pull back on the fork it seems to always be firm and engage early, I did notice there is a hole on the side of the bell housing where the slave goes that seems to be for prying the fork back so maybe this is common? I have never seen this before
 
that hole is to help get the end of the slave rod into the ball socket on the clutch fork or so i thought. i had a problem some what along these lines but mine ended up being that i was sent the pressure plate for a 96 and up by mistake and didnt realize it untill i had every thing put back together and the dang thing would disengage.

what do you mean pull back on the fork? like so that it will push the slave back in completly?
 
chevyCowboy said:
that hole is to help get the end of the slave rod into the ball socket on the clutch fork or so i thought. i had a problem some what along these lines but mine ended up being that i was sent the pressure plate for a 96 and up by mistake and didnt realize it untill i had every thing put back together and the dang thing would disengage.

what do you mean pull back on the fork? like so that it will push the slave back in completly?
Click to expand...

Yes that makes sense also. With the trans out I pulled the fork towards me which pushed the slave back in completely, ever since I bled it 2-3 times and pulled it back it has worked very well the throw out bearing makes contact very early and dis engages the clutch enough to be able to spin the tail shaft by hand.
 
what i think happens is the way that the slave is made they hold a air bubble in them and it is very hard to get out by you forcing it in all the way you get that air bubble back into the line and then it is allowd to escape when the bleeder is open. im going to have to try this next time, which looks like its going to be all to soon my slave apperars to need replacing :(
 
well you can pry on the fork through the hole!

anyone know hail housing to transfer case torque spec?
Also it looks like I need a spacer for the trans mount, looks to be about 3 inches that I need but I am not sure does anyone know the degrees the engine should tilt downward? (if measuring make sure truck is LEVEL) Thanks!
 
on gassers I always made sure the carb was level the intake manifold had the angle built into them. I would assume the angle would be the same
 
Clutch cylinder should bleed itself.
Mebby the problem is in the master cylinder,there's a tiny hole where the reservoir meets the cylinder just ahead of the knife edge of the cup,a slighty swollen cup or a weak piston return spring will close of the hole preventing the fluid from seeping down.
If your pedal return spring is weak, the weight of the pedal will move the piston slightly forwards getting the same result
 
yeah i noticed some fluid seeping from the joint of the master but honestly Im not going to replace it until it doesn't work very well because I already cut the push rod shaft so its not like a can warranty it.

Engine drop should be 3 degrees, I put a 3 inch square tubing spacer between the cross member and trans and now have to recess my cross member for the front dive shaft then build the new and ever so space limited cross over pipe! Hope to finish today!

If anyone is interested maybe I'll get some pictures up
 
Shifters... I need to find a smaller shift boot for the nv4500 the other one gets in the way of my 4x4 boot
shifters.jpeg

Trimming the cross member and welding in a new plate and capping the centers
1029111039a.jpg

Cross member finished, front drive shaft would hit this before the notch
1029112205a.jpg

The 3 inch spacer made from square tubing
1029112205b.jpg

The cross over pipe what a hassle, still need to do some work to it so it doesn't hit the front drive shaft also need to replace a manifold stud.
1029112236a.jpg

1029112236b.jpg

1029112237a.jpg

Thats all for now sometime soon i hope to go get an 02 chevy seat. 20/20 with the fold up middle
 
water in fuel.jpg

also when i turned the key after finishing the swap I got to see this for the first time. I tried to bleed the low side to see if it would go away but didn't so I figured it cant be much or there is a sensor problem. so i drove it around haven't noticed anything yet. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the water in fuel light?

also should I change my filters? I just did about 1-2 months ago with less than 3,000 miles on them
 
I know this one has some cob webs on it but instead of starting a new one I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on a problem I have been having along with my friends truck also. When the clutch warms up (after driving 30+ min) and you depress, go to shift into reverse it doesn't seem to disengage as well as it did when it was cold. We are both running DOT 3 and the same clutch however not the same style masters and slaves. I was thinking maybe the DOT 3 isn't enough to handle the engine heat so maybe DOT 4 would fix this.

any thoughts would be great!
 
both of our trucks have all new clutch hardware, mine is ~5 months old and his is probably ~10 months old. New pressure plate, flywheel, disc, clutch lines, master and slave
 
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