My 'new to me' enclosed trailer - pulling prep plan

[dka99burb]

I got a really good deal on this 7x16 enclosed with rear ramp. I know most of you pull a lot more but I've gotta be easy on the old girl. I plan to pull it to Texas next month with ATVs, camping gear, and some of the in-laws' furniture. I hope to build a deflector to help with wind resistance since it is a flat nose. Maybe a compond/slanted V-nose shape?? I got 12.5mpg pulling 150 miles home empty.



I am trying to accomplish the following before departure:
Install my new 2300psi pop injectors.
Install my free HX35 turbo
Make a HX turbo master
Install EGT gauge.
Tighten my steering box & align front end.
Replace all brakes. pads are heat cracked pretty bad and I have not checked shoes yet.
Change ALL of the fluids. Brake fluid is brown.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I wonder if it would be worthwhile putting a Vee-nose deflector on made from some plywood I a bracing frame connected to the tongue frame to cut the air better than the square front does

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

That one isn't to bad, try pulling one that's another 2 feet taller. Drags the milage down just a bit once you get a sail up that high. this one has a true 7' 6" high door opening in it with an 8' ceiling inside. Stands a good 4 foot above the BURB as it is a bit over 10' tall, and is a 25X8 box with 4 foot of tongue. Surprisingly the old 6.5 pulled this one pretty dang good with the 4.10 gears, but the DMAX does a bit better even with 3.42's, and gets .5MPG better towing it.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Be sure to deep clean the rad & ac cores, do you have he retuned fan clutch and 9 blade composite fan?

 

[WarWagon]

V-nose will help MPG, although 12.5 MPG Ummmmm.... Hard to do better than that towing.

Replace the fan clutch if it is older than 5 years old or you don't know how old it is. Otherwise you replace the fan clutch and send the old one to scrap metal still attached to the blown 6.5 engine... The fan clutch looses 200 RPM per year and is 'done' at 5 years, 1000 RPM lost.

I would replace the portioning valve with the updated GM part that allows more pressure to the rear. Have the drums turned and replace them if they are warped. Use the $100+ rear shoes as they stop better than the cheap ones. You will change the wheel cylinders too because you are there and they likely need it. Allow 500 miles before towing to run the rear brakes in and adjust them up before towing.

Check the DOT code on those likely Communist made trailer tires and get new ones if they are near 5 years old. Check them for recalls. Some Goodyear trailer tires were known to blow out even as a unused spare. Tread is not a indicator of anything on trailer tires. I have had the spare tire for the trailer blow out/separate on the spare carrier. Top speed for trailer tires is 65 MPH. unusual vibration in the vehicle can be from the trailer due to tires separating. Balance the trailer tires - something most places overlook. G series Goodyear maybe overkill, but look at tire and wheel options to put better tires under it. Most trailer tires are bombs waiting to go off and the hotter the weather to more rubber you see scattered over our roads.

Check the trailer brakes and adjust as necessary. Full power should be able to lock up each wheel with brakes on it. You should pull them down, repack the wheel bearings as you will have to to check the brakes, and inspect the magnets for wearing through to the windings. (Causes shorts.)

Make sure the trailer brake controller is on a 30 AMP breaker - NOT A FUSE! Intermittent shorts will allow the breaker to reset and allow the brakes to work sometimes when needed the most.

Make sure the emergency breakaway battery is good and the switch works. Attach the cable to something else aside of the hitch - in case the entire hitch departs the vehicle. DOT suggests this as it has happened...

 

[dka99burb]

I wonder if it would be worthwhile putting a Vee-nose deflector on made from some plywood I a bracing frame connected to the tongue frame to cut the air better than the square front does

I was thinking of doing something like this and I hope to have time. Probably with some sheet metal and light angle if I have my way.:skep:

 

[dka99burb]

That one isn't to bad, try pulling one that's another 2 feet taller. Drags the milage down just a bit once you get a sail up that high. this one has a true 7' 6" high door opening in it with an 8' ceiling inside. Stands a good 4 foot above the BURB as it is a bit over 10' tall, and is a 25X8 box with 4 foot of tongue. Surprisingly the old 6.5 pulled this one pretty dang good with the 4.10 gears, but the DMAX does a bit better even with 3.42's, and gets .5MPG better towing it.
View attachment 35424

Wholly crap! Why such a tall trailer/sail?? Our 8x25 trailer at work is not that tall!

 

[Pepperidge]

there was some engineer on another site that was against v noses...his theory is there is actually more surface area, hence more wind resistance even though you have a v to cut the wind "slightly" example you go from having one 8' wide sheet of aluminum on the front to having a two 6'(minimum...depending on the depth of the v) sheets pushing air...

His advice was a tail cone...though hard to adapt to a cargo trailer or ramp door car trailer...

I guess it's all in who you talk to about it...I do know that with the v nose, my trailer is more stable on the road...

 

[NVW]

How about one of those air dams to lift the air above the trailer? It would be simpler.

 

[dka99burb]

"Turbine Doc
Be sure to deep clean the rad & ac cores, do you have he retuned fan clutch and 9 blade composite fan?"

"WarWagon
V-nose will help MPG, although 12.5 MPG Ummmmm.... Hard to do better than that towing.
Replace the fan clutch if it is older than 5 years old or you don't know how old it is. Otherwise you replace the fan clutch and send the old one to scrap metal still attached to the blown 6.5 engine... The fan clutch looses 200 RPM per year and is 'done' at 5 years, 1000 RPM lost.
I would replace the portioning valve with the updated GM part that allows more pressure to the rear. Have the drums turned and replace them if they are warped. Use the $100+ rear shoes as they stop better than the cheap ones. You will change the wheel cylinders too because you are there and they likely need it. Allow 500 miles before towing to run the rear brakes in and adjust them up before towing.
Check the DOT code on those likely Communist made trailer tires and get new ones if they are near 5 years old. Check them for recalls. Some Goodyear trailer tires were known to blow out even as a unused spare. Tread is not a indicator of anything on trailer tires. I have had the spare tire for the trailer blow out/separate on the spare carrier. Top speed for trailer tires is 65 MPH. unusual vibration in the vehicle can be from the trailer due to tires separating. Balance the trailer tires - something most places overlook. G series Goodyear maybe overkill, but look at tire and wheel options to put better tires under it. Most trailer tires are bombs waiting to go off and the hotter the weather to more rubber you see scattered over our roads.
Check the trailer brakes and adjust as necessary. Full power should be able to lock up each wheel with brakes on it. You should pull them down, repack the wheel bearings as you will have to to check the brakes, and inspect the magnets for wearing through to the windings. (Causes shorts.)
Make sure the trailer brake controller is on a 30 AMP breaker - NOT A FUSE! Intermittent shorts will allow the breaker to reset and allow the brakes to work sometimes when needed the most.
Make sure the emergency breakaway battery is good and the switch works. Attach the cable to something else aside of the hitch - in case the entire hitch departs the vehicle. DOT suggests this as it has happened..."

Doc & WW, thanks for all the good advice. There are definitely some notes here that I didn't consider. I only have a few weeks before the trip so I will prioritize and get as much done as possible and will update you all. Thanks!

 

[dka99burb]

there was some engineer on another site that was against v noses...his theory is there is actually more surface area, hence more wind resistance even though you have a v to cut the wind "slightly" example you go from having one 8' wide sheet of aluminum on the front to having a two 6'(minimum...depending on the depth of the v) sheets pushing air...

His advice was a tail cone...though hard to adapt to a cargo trailer or ramp door car trailer...

I guess it's all in who you talk to about it...I do know that with the v nose, my trailer is more stable on the road...

That's an interesting thought. I will have to look at it but it seems that the V would help 'cut' the air. At 70mph I can see the flat sheet buckling in the wind.

 

[Mad Maxx]

I can barely tell when I'm Towing my V-Nose Enclosed Trailer. IMO, it really makes that Big of a Difference.

 

[Pepperidge]

That's an interesting thought. I will have to look at it but it seems that the V would help 'cut' the air. At 70mph I can see the flat sheet buckling in the wind.

Is the bracing behind the skin on 24" or 16" centers...what gauge sheet metal skin...that may answer some of your questions as to why it is buckling...not just that it is or is not a wind resistance issue...

I've been pulling a cargo trailer...now on my second one...for approximately 500k mi.

I had a wells cargo with the "nose cone" brand it it pulled the best...but that was a 7wx16Lx6.5h

I went to an 8.5w x 18x7h with and added 3' v nose and much heavier axles and much heavier overall

and my fuel mileage went down drastically...too many factors to say whether the v nose is worse than the nose cone aerodynamically...

 

[Dieseldad97]

I don't know. I've pulled with a v-nose and and a flat nose ( I own one). I've gotta say I didn't see any difference, even while on the interstate. This was when I was running my 6.5. With my d-max, it wouldn't matter haha.

OP: Good luck on your Texas trip, have fun!

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Wholly crap! Why such a tall trailer/sail?? Our 8x25 trailer at work is not that tall!

It's my grandfathers trailer he had built for hauling model T's. A standard model t is about 6' 10-11" high, but he had one that was 7' 2" high and had to have a trailer built tall enough to hold it. This trailer was actually a good bit taller than needed as his new single car trailer isn't quite as high(this 8X25X11 high gets me about 11-12 MPG towing with the BURB whereas his single 8.5X16X10.5 high gets about 14-14.5 towing).

 

[Turbine Doc]

Reason it comes to mind to maybe consider Vee nose adapter, is that aerodynamics are a player, look at how many OTR trucks now sporting spoilers on top of the tractor or trailer and "skirts" under the trailer, might be a wash for this trailer type but possibly worth doing a experiment to see if it improves

 

[handcannon]

I got a really good deal on this 7x16 enclosed with rear ramp. I know most of you pull a lot more but I've gotta be easy on the old girl. I plan to pull it to Texas next month with ATVs, camping gear, and some of the in-laws' furniture. I hope to build a deflector to help with wind resistance since it is a flat nose. Maybe a compond/slanted V-nose shape?? I got 12.5mpg pulling 150 miles home empty.

View attachment 35420 View attachment 35423

I am trying to accomplish the following before departure:
Install my new 2300psi pop injectors.
Install my free HX35 turbo
Make a HX turbo master
Install EGT gauge.
Tighten my steering box & align front end.
Replace all brakes. pads are heat cracked pretty bad and I have not checked shoes yet.
Change ALL of the fluids. Brake fluid is brown.

You already got some excellent recommendations, things to check. First a question, then I would just like add something to be aware of.

Since you have already pulled this trailer empty, how were your engine temps?

I put an HX35W on my pickup this summer and here's what I found with it. My EGTs are a bit higher than with the stock GM4, so an EGT gauge is a must. The motor seems to run a bit better (seat of the pants dyno) and mileage hasn't changed any. Engine temps haven't changed much, if any, either non-towing or towing. The throttle is touchier, as in the least bit of change in pressure on the pedal can make a big difference in engine speed, mostly noticed at very slow speeds. I'm still on the stock tune, so I know that I'm still not realizing the full potential of the Holset.

I'm still using the boost pressure wastegate control that came with the turbo. Since both the cold and hot side housings had to be re-clocked to fit 6.5 the stock mounting for the cannister was no longer useable, so I made a new mount for it. So far, I have never seen the boost go over 14 to 15 lbs, and it hits 14 to 15 for a only very brief time before it drops back down. Oh, and empty running the boost is just a bit higher than the GM4 ran at, about 4 lbs.

Here's some pics of how my turbo and wastegate are set up. Hopefully they can be of help to you when you mount yours. The first three are of the new pressure cannister mount, exploded, front, and back. This mounts through the bolts that hold the exhaust housing to the center housing (takes longer bolts). The last three show overall, and front and top views of the pressure cannister.

I hope this helps you, and have a safe and uneventful trip.

Don

 

[dka99burb]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. My modem (or something) has crashed at home so I have not had internet since my last post. The modem was resetting constantly and now it won't start at all. They are supposed to come out tomorrow. They would not just send me one???

Oh, and I will be ordering an EGT gauge kit to install while doing the turbo. I didn't expect higher EGTs?? I honestly expected lower.

 

[dka99burb]

Progress Update

Here is a quick update on last few weeks progress:
4 new ball joints, outer tie rod ends, idler arm & bracket, & tightened the steering box. This made a bid difference. Need to tighten box just a bit more and it should be good.
2 new pressure lines for hydroboost - they were very leaky
Changed gear oil in front diff. Still need to do rear. Recommended oils? Weight?
New pads & rotors up front. Thanks to my brother for bringing his nice air hammer! :thumbsup:
Cleaned & lubed rear adjusters. They were seized so shoes & drums in good shape. :rolleyes5:
Passenger side injectors installed.
Turbo drain 1/2" shorter for easier install along with a new silicone hose.
Did some test fitting of the HX35 so I know more of what I have to come. I want to keep the battery where it is if possible.
Hope to get the driver side injectors done tonight. And find those darn trailer brake wires while in there...:rolleyes5:

Since I am running out of time, I have decided that the 'v-nose' is not something I have time for. The trailer pulls pretty good like it is. Even though I think it would help I am just about out of time.

I still hope to get the HX35 on there but there are higher priorities and I don't want to do it at the last minute without testing time. We will see. Maybe I will have time to do it while in TX? :hihi:

 

[GM Guy]

I think this is what pepperidge mentioned in his post:

http://www.nosecone.com/

dont have to make it, just buy it! I imagine shipping will be high.

one thing to keep in mind, the burb body already bucks some of the wind, so you are one step ahead of us pickup truck folks.

good luck!