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My LB7/LLY build

stacks04 said:
have you checked the ficm fuse. it is num 25 under hood. also there is 3 grounds on the lower right side of the engine block. triple check those. for the ficm. and ecm.
Click to expand...

will double check the ficm fuse, I do have 3 grounds on each side of block.
2 in same harness as cam/crank sensor, one in same harness as starter "switchleg, and then on driver's side, the main from battery, one to starter and one in oil level harness. One from head to firewall and one from firewall to hood.
 
okay check you pm at dp. i had to send it there because it accepts html code. it is a diag chart for a no start. some of the steps you might not be able to do with out a tech 2, but follow it as long as you can.
 
also just had a thought. your 1000 codes are probably setting because of the batteries dying and or being low voltage. so i would safely cross those off the list of why it is not starting. for now.
 
never could find the FICM fuse, found two that had an asterik and said INJ1 and INJ2 and then a relay that said F Pump or something like that.
 
okay the fuse is called inj 2. but you'll see on the cover for the fuse box if your looking at it on the bottom right corner there is 3 lists one says gas one says diesel, and not sure on the third. the middle list is diesel. it is the first one in that list. edu. right below the starter relay.
 
found it it's good. What about that relay for it, the fuse EDU is a 25 amp. #5 on the list for diesel also says EDU but its a relay, what if I swap it with an identical relay say the parking lamp relay?
 
stacks04 said:
well i want you to check the actual power wires and ground wires at the ficm. so at your convenience
Click to expand...
my convience? **** whatever it takes, I'll take the connectors off........will I be able to tell which is which? should have power when key is turned ON?
 
they are 2 pink wires in the ficm plugs, one is terminal 5 and one is terminal 119. there is one in each connector. they should have power at key in the on position.
 
Ok what about valve lash, I'm thinking I may need to check it tommorrow. I know it is set right according to GM's manual. Only possibility is that I got compression and exhaust strokes mixed up.

What I did:
turning motor over by hand with the groove in the balancer lined up with the one on the front cover....
What I THOUGHT was comprssion stroke I adjusted (I is for intake, E for exhaust)
2E
6I
8E
1I
1E
3I
5I
7E
AND on exhaust stroke:
2I
4E
4I
6E
8I
3E
5E
7I
When I thought I had it on compression stroke, the ones I adjusted(see above) were looser than the others, not exactly matching the ones GM says you can adjust but pretty damn close, so in other words, the ones I adjusted the springs were NOT compressed.
IE:
what I THOUGHT was compression stroke:
2E, 6I, 8E, 1I, 1E, 3I, 5I, 7E the springs were NOT compressed or at least not nearly as much as the others. Same for the other stroke, was that right or wrong????
__________________
 
dealer's diesel mechanic is gonna try and make a house call with his Tech 2. gonna put everything half ass back together and make sure stock tune is in so he can't blame it on that. Maybe at least he can tell me if any of my modules are bad.

Hey guys, hit me up with questions to ask him, things to have him check.........
IE: injector circuit signal, etc.
 
Haven't been on here in a while, but to correct previous post. It was not a bearing, turned out the head shop guy overheated my heads trashing them and unknowingly I installed them, 1600 miles and a valve seat broke, dropped a valve and smacked up #7 piston. Had Tony Burkhard pick it up, he fixed it up and even more, got her back on the road and have had her prolly 8k miles now, not a single problem. Just updated the twins too!!!
 
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