MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That sounds like something more akin to artwork instead of a mechanical device.
Another quality device by twisted steel performance.
Another quality device by twisted steel performance.
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My clutch mod
- Thread starter Twisted Steel Performance
- Start date
schiker
Well-Known Member
Hopefully it will last a long time too.
It's going to be a long while yet til I redo mine.
Bucket Truck guy
New Member
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 18
I have a '94 C3500 6.5. Intermittent (now and then) problems shifting into gear while motor is running. Bought a slave/master from Rock Auto. It's shipped as a unit, so you don't have to bleed. Unbolted the existing slave and master. They are loose now. Can't quite maneuver the slave to get it out of the truck. I'm hoping that this (replacement of cylinders) will fix the problem. It's easier than a complete R&R of the trans that has a hydraulic pump on the PTO. It's a bucket truck. If not, I will have to drop the tranny. I have an antique gear-driven trans jack. Super cool, heavy duty.
Regarding an adjustable T.O. bearing: If the clutch disengages at let's say half-stroke of the clutch pedal, can it be depressed further? My truck has a "safety-for-all" starter lock out. Meaning, I have to depress the pedal to within a half inch of the floor to be able to engage the starter via the ignition key. Manufacturers have to assume all consumers are idiots, or looking for an excuse to sue somebody. This is my first vehicle with that feature. Actually, I had a '49 Nash wherein if you pushed the clutch all the way to the floor, it would press down on a switch, that looked like a dimmer switch and that would engage the starter. But I digress. By what I read above, I'm barking up the wrong tree about slave/master, but since I have already purchased aluminum parts to replace the plastic parts, I may as well go ahead.
I just replaced the starter. Had another intermittent problem where the solenoid would "click" and engage, but the starter wouldn't turn. Read all the great advice in the Haynes manual about cable connections, etc. Took the starter out, and put some jumper cables on it. It would turn with a lot of bearing noise. As an aside, the old starter had yellow writing on it, the kind that junk yards use to mark the parts they sell. So the old starter was probably, well, OLD. The new starter works flawlessly.
Back in my misspent youth, I really enjoyed crawling under cars, making repairs. Now that I am 69, it just doesn't seem to be that fun anymore. I don't like black dirt under my nails. I don't like the dried grease and dirt falling into my eyes. I can't see what I'm doing if I don't adjust my glasses if I'm not looking out the right part of the lenses. But I'll be damned if I take it to somebody else to fix. That is surrender; defeat. I'm old, but not an invalid. Well, sometimes it's hard sitting up from my creeper. BTW, I hate creepers. They never go where you want them to. You push them one way, and instead they bang your head against a cross member. Arrgh.
Thanks for listening. I'll follow up with what I find out. If you don't hear from me, call the paramedics. It means that the jack stands failed and nobody could hear my cries for help. Just kidding. Be well, wash your front feet, and don't buy any extended warranties. They are scams. Steve
Regarding an adjustable T.O. bearing: If the clutch disengages at let's say half-stroke of the clutch pedal, can it be depressed further? My truck has a "safety-for-all" starter lock out. Meaning, I have to depress the pedal to within a half inch of the floor to be able to engage the starter via the ignition key. Manufacturers have to assume all consumers are idiots, or looking for an excuse to sue somebody. This is my first vehicle with that feature. Actually, I had a '49 Nash wherein if you pushed the clutch all the way to the floor, it would press down on a switch, that looked like a dimmer switch and that would engage the starter. But I digress. By what I read above, I'm barking up the wrong tree about slave/master, but since I have already purchased aluminum parts to replace the plastic parts, I may as well go ahead.
I just replaced the starter. Had another intermittent problem where the solenoid would "click" and engage, but the starter wouldn't turn. Read all the great advice in the Haynes manual about cable connections, etc. Took the starter out, and put some jumper cables on it. It would turn with a lot of bearing noise. As an aside, the old starter had yellow writing on it, the kind that junk yards use to mark the parts they sell. So the old starter was probably, well, OLD. The new starter works flawlessly.
Back in my misspent youth, I really enjoyed crawling under cars, making repairs. Now that I am 69, it just doesn't seem to be that fun anymore. I don't like black dirt under my nails. I don't like the dried grease and dirt falling into my eyes. I can't see what I'm doing if I don't adjust my glasses if I'm not looking out the right part of the lenses. But I'll be damned if I take it to somebody else to fix. That is surrender; defeat. I'm old, but not an invalid. Well, sometimes it's hard sitting up from my creeper. BTW, I hate creepers. They never go where you want them to. You push them one way, and instead they bang your head against a cross member. Arrgh.
Thanks for listening. I'll follow up with what I find out. If you don't hear from me, call the paramedics. It means that the jack stands failed and nobody could hear my cries for help. Just kidding. Be well, wash your front feet, and don't buy any extended warranties. They are scams. Steve
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Chris, it sounds like you didn't use Novac's adjustable ball stud?
I'm wondering if it would at least be a better quality than the usual.
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
@Twisted Steel Performance
Chris, I'm going through yours and Diesel amateur's threads to get my clutch figured out.
When you install your clutch slave cylinder, how far into the bellhousing does it go? Diesel amateur mentioned that he can see the end of his clutch fork through the inspection window which means that his rod should only reach into the bellhousing that far?
Reason why I ask is that when I install my slave, the rod pushes my clutch fork back till the TO bearing is touching my clutch fingers full time. Not actually engaging the clutch but it is taking up that important clearance of 1/16"-1/8" and making the TO bearing contact full time on the fingers. That just doesn't seem right. Shouldn't there be that clearance between the slave rod and that fork end too? So that the fork is essentially free swinging 1/8"-1/16" with that clearance?
Am I on the right track here?
Chris, I'm going through yours and Diesel amateur's threads to get my clutch figured out.
When you install your clutch slave cylinder, how far into the bellhousing does it go? Diesel amateur mentioned that he can see the end of his clutch fork through the inspection window which means that his rod should only reach into the bellhousing that far?
Reason why I ask is that when I install my slave, the rod pushes my clutch fork back till the TO bearing is touching my clutch fingers full time. Not actually engaging the clutch but it is taking up that important clearance of 1/16"-1/8" and making the TO bearing contact full time on the fingers. That just doesn't seem right. Shouldn't there be that clearance between the slave rod and that fork end too? So that the fork is essentially free swinging 1/8"-1/16" with that clearance?
Am I on the right track here?
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Hink I don't know the correct answer here...
In a hydrolic system I doubt there will be any space between everything, if the slave has a slack space what would keep it from falling off ?
In a hydrolic system I doubt there will be any space between everything, if the slave has a slack space what would keep it from falling off ?
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Well, we're only talking the 1/16" so it would still be confined to the pocket in the fork end but that answers my question too, I guess.
So from what you're saying, the TO bearing does contact the clutch at all times because of the little bit of force the slave rod puts on it?
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Mine does, wether that's correct or not I don't know.
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
@Hink what exactly are you trying to figure out on your clutch? Are you having issues or just replacing some components?
As far as I know the slave rod should be making contact with the bottom of the fork full time- that's why the pre bled units come with a strap holding the rod in place, it naturally wants to push out. Depending on whether your t/o bearing is adjustable or not, this may or may not mean the bearing is making contact with the pressure plate fingers. Even if the bearing is gently riding on the fingers, I don't think there's any issue there. It takes a decent amount of pressure to depress the fingers and disengage the clutch
If you're looking at my clutch not disengaging saga thread, being able to see the rod and fork end through the inspection hole *When the clutch pedal is depressed* means the whole assembly isn't traveling far enough. The slave rod and fork bottom should travel way past the inspection hole. My clutch pedal assembly was so worn that I had to make a longer master pushrod to take up the extra play.
As far as I know the slave rod should be making contact with the bottom of the fork full time- that's why the pre bled units come with a strap holding the rod in place, it naturally wants to push out. Depending on whether your t/o bearing is adjustable or not, this may or may not mean the bearing is making contact with the pressure plate fingers. Even if the bearing is gently riding on the fingers, I don't think there's any issue there. It takes a decent amount of pressure to depress the fingers and disengage the clutch
If you're looking at my clutch not disengaging saga thread, being able to see the rod and fork end through the inspection hole *When the clutch pedal is depressed* means the whole assembly isn't traveling far enough. The slave rod and fork bottom should travel way past the inspection hole. My clutch pedal assembly was so worn that I had to make a longer master pushrod to take up the extra play.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Gm rides under light pressure iirc.
Not saying you need to buy this- but study all the points he talks about.
He doesn’t mention pedal adjustment btw
Not saying you need to buy this- but study all the points he talks about.
He doesn’t mention pedal adjustment btw
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Ok, copy that.
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
OK, that's what I was looking to confirm, thank you.
I'm creating a whole new post for this so I won't hijack this one further but to answer your questions, I am definitely having issues. The current one being the trans not going into gear at all. No grinding, just no go.
Thanks for the clarification on the inspection hole comment, that helps.
The whole "gently riding on the fingers" thing still bothers me but I guess if that's how it is, that's how it's been and it's been fine for many.
I just find it odd that a bearing that is used intermittently is made to run full time (if it's riding on the clutch fingers) as the engine is spinning, because either it's spinning or the clutch fingers are rubbing a gouge into the face of the bearing.
Also, in talking this over with a buddy who has built 100's of hot rods over 30 years, he said that it's mostly common for Chevy motors and their transmissions to have a spring on the clutch fork specifically to keep the fork pulled back and disengaged completely from the clutch.
Either way, if your guys' setup is the way it is, then it should be fine. I've just never thought through the minute details of the clutch system before!
I'll move forward with Chris' fork mod and the Novac adjustable bearing (got it setup and installed today) and I'm thinking that that'll do the trick.