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my 6.2 build up

UPDATE I know it's been awhile had to put it on hold for a little bit. have installed all of the fomentation parts a long with a Autometer Pyro & boost gauge sending units both electric If you look in pics 3&7 you will see what look to be the stock boost gauge but it's not it's the autometer one! that why they make the best gauges. Have also mocked everything on the motor. As you can see by using the Turbo Adapter Flange I can run the stock hose and keep the CDR valve on it's stock bracket. Have also run the hose for the CDR valve to the intake for it's vacuum pick up (have heard that this is not the best place to put it for some reason can't remember why??) any insight into this?
 

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We posted your build in the 6.5 section. One of the members there is building a military cucv. Nice build, how is she running?
 
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Question. Why did you need the spacer ? If you used 6.5 manifolds wouldn't the turbo clear or is this because of the long injectors ? or because you have an A/C box and need to clear it ? If it's the long injectors couldn't you just use short ones ?
 
Its the injectors. I am running a 1/4 inch spacer on my swap too. If you run short injectors then you have to change out to 6.5 injector lines. I paid less than 40 bucks for the spacer so it was just cheaper to do than run short injectors.
 
With the ATT A-Team Turbo you don't need the spacer it sits higher than the stock gm turbo.
 
sorry for the delay in responding!!! But it's that time of year and the crops won't what!! So to answer some questions:

Acesneights1: I ran the spacer just for the reason that it moves the turbo up and away from the engine. I did this in the hopes that it would make getting to things on that side of the engine a lot easier and possibly keep the temps down on this side.

Secondly Member named 635: I made my Oil Feed line out of -6 AN Line & Aeroquip fitting and the return line out of -10 AN line, Aeroquip Fittings the line is Earl's Performance Pro-Lite 350 Hose. The ONLY reason I did this is because I had left over from a previous build. To make these two line would cost you:

$69.95 for a 10ft roll of -6 AN line
$86.95 for a 10ft roll of -10 AN line
$18.25 x 2 for the 90deg elbows in -6 AN
$23.95x2 for the 90deg elbows in -10 AN
$13.88 for the AN Flare Union to bolt it to the turbo
$15.39 for the Fuel Cell Bulkhead Adapter Fitting to put though the fuel block off plate
$14.99 for the one-piece billet T3/T4 Turbo Oil Drain Flange with a male -10 AN (JIC) from Function 7 off Ebay

For a Grand total of 286.56 for two stupid oil lines

For Guybb3 :did not use a gasket in between the turbo and the spacer as there are both cast

And finally Truck runs great Slim, as soon as I get my trailer back I'll have to call you and bring it over so you can mess with the fuel. as for fuel mileage put $50.00 bucks in it on the 7th which gave me 3/4 of a tank in a 40gal tank (was not empty) and as of today still have 1/8 of a tank. So I'm HAPPY!!!! As for pictures I'll take some tonight seeing how I'm home when the sun's still in the sky. Anything you guys would like to see just let me Know and I'll Post it.

Also the downpipe that I got from SSdiesel was A great piece and the wife pleaser ( oxymoron ) muffler sounds great!!! also from SSdiesel
 
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Here's some pics!!

Forgot to mention the crossover pipe that I got form SS also was a very nice piece.

Also performance wise almost can't tell the difference between this engine and the SBC 408 that I had in it before, which is saying a lot seeing how that motor dyno out at 425hp w/ 435fptq. Engine does lack some what at the higher speed's though. Throttle responds is not as quick. hopefully this will improve after the fuel is turned up.

As for you guys that say you no longer have that turbo whistle, My truck sound like a semi with the drivers foot in it!!! I'm pulling 7psi from 2nd to 3rd!! wants to spin the 37's and it sound's like it's boostin more like 12psi!! I LOVE IT and all with a BIG ASS Muffler!!! The 1200RMP stall converter is probably why I'm getting such a nice whistle.
 

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More Pics

Pic 2 Remote Fuel Filter ( have not installed the heated one yet )

Pic 5 The wife pleaser muffler or as I refer to it the BIG Bastard. Sounds really nice when you get on it & you almost don't know the things running when you let out of it. First time I drive the truck thought it stalled when I was coming to a stop at a light. Does not help that the truck sound like your flying a P51 Mustang at around 40mph.):h:biglaugh: Sorry let me rephrase that more like a Lancaster!!!

Pic 6 Duel remote oil filters
Remote Trans Filter
Duel Battery Switch
Fan control switch

Pic 9 One of my two Group 3100 batteries mounted to the frame.
 

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Man, I am so frikin jealous, That ride is badd assss. Question though, back to the injector hieght, turbo spacer thing. Random said he also used a spacer to clear the 6.2 long injectors and to swap to short ones you'd need 6.5 lines ?? I gave the old short injector from my Tahoe(6.5) to Iamdave and he put them on his 83 6.2 with no issues or line change. So is it the inj hieght that's the problem or are the 6.2 lines bent in a way that even if you used short injectors they would hit the turbo ?
Thanks.
 
You do not Need new 6.5 lines!! I replaced my tall injector on my 6.2 with short 6.5 one's and never changed the lines. It's not the turbo that they will hit it's the exhaust manifold, you would never get it on with the tall injectors. Random must be using a exhaust manifold spacer.
 
OK so just for the dyslecsic(myself) I can run short 6.5 injectors , 6.2 lines and the 6.5 ex manifold should work with no problem right ?
 
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