Missy goes full retro

[john65td]

the ct's are more agressive then the grabber at's

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The tire company thats close by sells mostly Toyo's
I do have other stuff available but will have to search around some.

May just see what shakes out of such haunts as Craigs list etc.

MGW

 

[Acesneights1]

There was tons of 15 inch stuff at the Stafford Swap meet.

 

[HANK1948]

These older bodystyle trucks so kick a s s

I love them too, my 83 CC with 335K was my daily driver for 4 years 110 miles a day to work.
It a Custom Deluxe so rubber floors and full vinyl bench seats(easy clean up). the best thing these trucks have that they don't make anymore is vent windows and floor vents below the A pillar, They sure move the air!

I would love to put a 6.2 with a turbo in a 67-72 4x4 burban these were sweet as well

 

[HANK1948]

Found the mech LPs to be pretty unreliable and have overnight starting issues as they get old in my experience. Gonna go electric on that but I'm not in love with a stande alone either .

The best electric fuel pumps for our diesels is the old style beer car faucet pumps. I found one off a Onan generator and have had it on for 4 years with it never skipping a beat.
This pump has 3 years of thick veggie oil running through it, thats abuse for a fuel pump!
I found another one that came off another Onan generator, the pump body was solid rust, plugged er in she ran great.

My brother needed a pump for his 82 6.2 so I gave it to him, its still going and that was 3 years ago!

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Some of those little pumps are just almost indestructible.

I still want a Mechanical pump as the primary pump on the 91 conversion.]

Since I have a Virgin 87 that has all the original hard lines (In perfect condition) that will locate everything right where it belongs, I'm set.

The Original engine from the 87 is complete in all details so thats a real plus.

I will likely install an electric pump back near the tank as an assist when priming a new filter and or ?????

Priming a 6.2 with a mechanical pump sucks. Ya have to unplug the IP power so the beast wont hicup and suck a bunch of air into itself while your priming the filter.

Wears the starter and the Batteries too.


MGW

 

[Missy Good Wench]

It'sa great day

Got together with the fella south of here I bought the NP203/350 from and fetched the little critter on home today..

Rain held off until we got the thing loaded on my trailer, fortunately. :smile5:

The guy did not have any way to pick it up so I took the Burb and the trailer and we rough necked it up on the rail and lashed it down with a couple winch straps :smile5:

50 miles home and it rode like a champ.

Here are some piccy's I snapped after we got back.


Looking forward to getting going on this beast and seeing just what sort of a Morphadite I can build.

Its Official the 91 is going to be named "MISS/FIT" Going to get a little pic done on a decal with a cuttie Blonde sitting on the front of a BURB with the name Miss Fit under her.

Sort of like WWII B17 Nose art sorta kinda.

Gonna surf the net and kick back the rest of the day.

Tossed a cover over the "PRIZE" as the weather looks to get sloppy later today/night


Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

Some of those little pumps are just almost indestructible.

I still want a Mechanical pump as the primary pump on the 91 conversion.]

Since I have a Virgin 87 that has all the original hard lines (In perfect condition) that will locate everything right where it belongs, I'm set.

The Original engine from the 87 is complete in all details so thats a real plus.

I will likely install an electric pump back near the tank as an assist when priming a new filter and or ?????

Priming a 6.2 with a mechanical pump sucks. Ya have to unplug the IP power so the beast wont hicup and suck a bunch of air into itself while your priming the filter.

Wears the starter and the Batteries too.


MGW

I use a push pull hand pump connected to the fuel line and draw it through. I think Mac makes a bleeder pump that works on the square filter setups. I saw a guy use one on my Jimmy before I went electric.

 

[Acesneights1]

Those dual front shock setups you mentioned, I wouldn't bother unless your going to fab a little and with that you could make it anyway. The kit(unless they have improved )at the bottom just uses a longer bolt and a couple spacers on the lower front shock mount. That mount cannot handle dual shocks and will break. You will need to reinforce it/make something stronger. I personally wouldn't bother. Just keep the oem single shock setup. it works fine especially if you aren't gonna beat it off road. It's unessicary, spend the money somewhere esle.
My experiences..,,,,

 

[Acesneights1]

Also some advice on changing the front springs since I just did them yesterday. The front bolts can be a real MF to get out. what I did was beat on each one for about 2-3 minutes with a IR 3/4 impact gun then drove them out with an air hammer. If they won't budge at all then take Mr(in your case Mrs)hotwrench and burn the bolts off carefully flush then spread the outer mouting ear out a little and yank it out that way. Back bolt will usually come out ok but you can burn those flush as well and spread the hangers.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

My truck has the factory quad shocks from Ma General.

Listed right on the RPO sheet in the glove box.

Now remember, I live in ORY GUN. We dont have salt here.

The U bolts will come right off in a jiffy with nothing more than a little skunk piss and the impact and likely could be reused.

This truck is pristine on the underside with almost all the parts still sporting the factory paint.

Dont think the hot wrench will be needed at all.

It stands ready though just in case.

I had to replace a spring on one of the rear axles on the Big trailer last summer.

500,000 +++ miles on that sucker in all weather conditions.

1 inch U bolts, took about 5 minutes to get them loose and they were fine to go back.

Little wire brush to get the dirt off, some skunk piss and the 3/4 rattle wrench and zoooooooop off they came.

Just to give another example.

Last weekend I removed the fuel tank on the 87.
Wire brush the threads on the tank strap T bolts. PB blaster on the threads and removed them with a 11/16 hand wrench in about 5 minutes.

The tank, straps and all the fasteners as well as the lines are in like new condition.

Without the salt, the stuff lives forever (Almost)


Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

OK but the ubolts were not what I meant. The front spring bushing bolt can be a real mother. Yeah I remember some of them came with duals. I know the aftermarket kit is not that good. They always break right at the mount.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Spring bolts are in fine shape too.

As I mentioned the truck is like new under there other than a little dirt.

Once I get the sucker up on stands and the front wheels off, the springs will come right off easy as pie.

The aftermarket front "quad" shock stuff is a tad flakey with some of the kits.

The GM factory setup is pretty good.

I have not seen one torn off except one that a fellow did not replace the shocks with the right length when he did a lift. "OOOOOPS"

The shocks bottomed on the up stroke and wrecked some stuff.

I was glad to see the factory quad shocks. Makes the truck ride better too.

I have the word out that I want a set of 35 Inch tires on 15 inch wheels.

May have a set of alloys coming ?????????// won't know for a day or two.

While I have the front springs off I will replace the bushings in the shakle top ends too with the cool red urethane ones

While the back end is up for the add a leaf and the blocks, I will do the bushings there too.

The old bushings are probably well used up.


Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

Summitracing had a good deal on the bushing from energy suspension. I just did mine. Nice kit. Even gives you the upper rear hanger bushings(the ones in the frame).

 

[Missy Good Wench]

I have these already left over from my other 91 (Sold back in 07)

Two kits sitting on the shelf. YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

MGW

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Well now

Yesterday I sold a personall gun at auction arms, so the funds are now available to take care of getting the lift I want and a couple other things.

As soon as I get paid its off to the ONLINE 4x4 store to order some goodies for the "Miss Fit"

Found a company yesterday that sells a remote mounted reluctor wheel and bracket that will work on my NP203 to run the VSS.

This is a great thing. I was planning on modifying the tail housing and the output shaft to allow the addition of a Reluctor ring.

The Kit is a two piece metal raing that bolts to the back of the yoke on the differential.

Well the 203 has a similar yoke on the output shaft and the ring can be mounted up there out of the way.

Having such a delicate item down low in the back was not exactly my idea of a trick setup, but up on the output yoke will be quite fine.

Likely wont even have to modify the wiring harness or if so, minimally.

Uses the same sensor as the NP241 thats there now.

I will probably remove the output yoke and "true up" the back side of the flange ears so that the wheel sits flat and square on the yoke and will run true and not wobble.

Up on the back of the T case the new sensor/Reluctor setup will be pretty much out of harms way.

This will eleviate the need to screw around with ratio adapters and all sort of other crap to get the stock speedo to work.

With the addition of the 35 inch tires the speedo will no doubt be off a little but nothing to worry about.

Just have to check it to see how far off it is and note the error.

There are electronic ratio correction devices available but PHHHHHHHTTTT don't need it.

The error will be less than 10 MPH showing on the speedo.

Off and rolling I am..

MGW

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Sunday November 1st

All is well here at the ranch.

Spent the better part of the morning going over the big rig doing service (grease) and checking various things such as brakes etc.

Wanted to get the beast ready for winter si I dont have to crawl under it in the rain and nasty.

Greasing the monster takes a fair amount of time to do and do right.

Found a couple loose bolts on the turn table on the trailer and got them tightened up.

Mostly just servicing and adjusting brakes. (Dirty nasty job)

Got the truck ready to roll on tuesday and then moved on to getting my NP203 unloaded off of the trailer and into the shop.

Took all of 5 minutes to snag that critter with the BOBCAT and a chain and sit in on the floor out of the weather.

Decided to take DaHooley for a 20 minute Jaunt around the ranch (Still have yet to get license back on her)

DaHoooley runs so sweet, would really love to get her on the road but there is really no need at present.

Just was not going to have it apart any longer though.

Moved all the rigs that we dont use daily away from the house and out from under the FIR trees. Poor DaHoooley was covered with needles 1/4" deep on the roof and hood.

Stuff gets into the air passage at the windshield area and is a PITA.

Went to town later in the 91 and on the way back smelled antifreeze
Some snooping revealed that the rear heater box (little small breadbox sized thing) was leaking antifreeze.

Took the rig home and scoped out the issue.


WELLLLLLLL NOW

The P O had told me that he had replaced the feed hoses to the rear heater.

OMG what a mess. The fool had strung heter hose from about the B pillar area along the frame, from a break point in the factory hard lines all the way to the rear heater inlets.

Tied this heater hose to whatever was handy using HUGE tie wraps.

We dont need rear heaters here so I cut the lines loose at the end of the hard lines along the frame and jumpered the two lines with a loop of hose.

Drained the rear core out good so it is no longer an issue.

Luckily the leak had not been large and had not soaked into the carpet padding.

The smell of HOT antifreeze is one not soon forgotten.

The hard lines that feed down the frame apear to be fairly well corroded inside.

Look like steel lines.

Likley I will abandon that whole mess during the engine swap. Probably remove the lines and plug the feed and return fittings at the "Y" right forward of the AC box.

Very easy to use a short hose section and a small plug and just toss the rest of the stuff.


Possibly though, if I can scrounge up a new or very good set of lines, I may decide to replace the rear heater core and resinstall the setup as it was from the factory.

That little box right inside the RH rear barn door is a real Nuisance though.

Looks sort of like an afterthought.

They could have placed the thing closer to the wheel well and tucked it up tight against the inner wall ?????????//


THE P O that I bought the truck from was lucky that he did not have the thing freeze last winter.

The coolant that I drained out was only good down to +10 F

I tossed what I drained out and added another full gallon of green straight from the jug and that got the mix good to about -15 F :smile5:

All is well now.

Never really thought much of those exposed heater pipes along the frame

Very vulnerable to damage from the elements and debris encountered along the trail.


Later troops


Missy

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Got my $$$$$ in my hand (Well did have)

Ordered the lift kit for the Burb and this eavening I am picking up a nice set of 15X10 alloy wheels with 33/12.50 rubber on them for $375 (about 50% on the rubber)

Good enough for now.

Good wheels are hard to find especially for the older straight axle trucks.
These came off a Land Cruiser 4x4

I will post some piccys when I get them home.

 

[dangerousdave]

MMMMM.

Piccys. :cool3:

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Here is one the seller took.

I blew it up a little bit so its a tad grainy.

Will get some good pix outside in the light just as soon as I can.

The seller pollished the one wheel up real nice but the other 3 are still a tad dull.

All good shape though with about 50% tread on the tires.

Not new, but a very good buy me thinks for $375 and will look great and get the Burb up on her feet after I install the lift.

Missy

Missy