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Military Humvee ?

hookedup50

hookedup50

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Location
MA
How does the military 6.x version get away with no CDR. I know I swapped the oil pump out of my Teds engine for a high volume GM one, but is that it? I have visions of all of my old junk not leaking anything, and just a curiousity. I've got it down to a slight weep and its got to stay like that as I'm on to final pump timing with carcode and welding body hole(mouse hole) on passenger side. The only thing that I own that doesn't leak is my 5cyl Colorado that gets worse mileage than my diesel, and have never liked it much. I use it as a traveling dog kennel. Thanks, not trying to reinvent anything here, just wondering.
 
All of the military Humvees 6.2 and 6.5 I've seen all had a CDR. The military manuals that I read all show CDR. According to a.m. general almost all of the Humvees that were sold to the military came with a CDR. Ones that did not have a CDR feeding directly back to the intake used a catch can system. I spent a lot of time researching variations in experiments that am general was doing with Humvees to figure out changes I might want to make to my hummer. This was quite a few years ago (8 ish)it could be that they have changed since then.

That being said, military vehicles do not have to pass emissions standards. Anyone in any motorpool could've made alterations to any vehicle.
 
My GEP engine that I got from Ted's didn't have a CDR hole in the passenger side valve cover.. It was a N/A engine though, so not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. I just swapped the valve cover from my turbo engine on to it.
 
Mike k3500, exactly why I was asking I had to change that valve cover tin with gm one like you did and wondering how the military did it. Hating myself for not taking drivers side off and resealing that tin. Timesaver at the time, now timesucker with all the crap to move to do it to get rid of suspected weap. Retightening bolts slowed it and most went away with Leroy's o ring kit for oil adapter.
 
If it didn't have a hole in the valve cover the CDR would be from the oil fill tube. See picture of 1986 6.2 setup on oil fill.
6-2_engine_650x550.jpg.
 
Thanks for the pic. I'm gonna go look at the local PD hummer tomorrow. Seems simpler to run from oil fill to k47 with the funky tube routing I have now with the ATT in the way. Kind of a bummer the GOV't is selling the towns Humvee's for a grand and I would gladly pay much more to help pay down the Debt.
 
hookedup50 said:
Thanks for the pic. I'm gonna go look at the local PD hummer tomorrow. Seems simpler to run from oil fill to k47 with the funky tube routing I have now with the ATT in the way. Kind of a bummer the GOV't is selling the towns Humvee's for a grand and I would gladly pay much more to help pay down the Debt.
Click to expand...

Huh? Humvee for a grand?

I always thought pulling from fill tube was a better idea.
 
The 6.2's had a shield around the chain to keep the oil spray down with that setup. Why they went to the hot heads to pull oil vapor...
 
Mike K3500 said:
My GEP engine that I got from Ted's didn't have a CDR hole in the passenger side valve cover.. It was a N/A engine though, so not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. I just swapped the valve cover from my turbo engine on to it.
Click to expand...

What has to be swapped or changed on the "Teds Engines" to make them work for our application.....Just the valve cover and oil pump?......What about the oil pan?......Are there any other surprises?.......What kind of head bolts/studs do these AM General engines use....TTY?
 
Valve cover, oil pump, oil pan, TTY bolts for arp studs, possibly precups depending on what you find.
 
The Gm oil pumps are high volume and the Takeouts have low volume from what I read. The military engines generally have NA precups. Mike k3500 had them if I recall correctly. Mine had the turbo cups when I had the heads off. From what I have researched, it was whatever was on hand during assembly. Thats pure speculation on my part, but was happy not to be nickled and dimed on this. It was the only thing that went in my favor on swap. I'm completely happy with the results now that I have worked out the bugs and have it tuned properly. Sending out the computer for tune with ATT next. Hoping to bust 20mpg from that. WarWagon, I'm sending out your diamond precups next week if they are not cracked.
 
Oil pumps- only low and high volume. Look at it when you pull the pan, if it has the 1" spacer looking piece between the body and cap that is high volume. If you have to buy one, Melling is the only mfr., they rebrand for literally everyone. This from melling production engineer, he also said it is ok to due the tig weld to hold the pickup tube in place for those who choose. He never heard of dropping the tube from this pump however. Van they use same pan as hummer (incase you want to fleabay it). And yes, tty head bolts.
 
Louis, I just swap the passenger valve cover for the CDR, and we had to trim a bit the metal sheet in the oil pan to allow the oil pump to fit.

I didn't pull the heads to repplace precups so they are still the N A ones.

While the oil pan was out, I had a look at the oil pump, and I saw a purple spring inside. I didn't remark if there was a spacer or not. Any good?

When cold, at iddle, the oil pssure sits at 3/4 of the gauge scale, same hot when cruising. Hot at iddle, the needle goes down to half the gauge.

Here is the only picture of the oil pump I have : Oil pump.jpg

Does it ring a bell somewhere ?
 
That is the high-volume oil pump. The black ring in between the two gray parts is the spacer. It makes the housing longer, it allows for longer gears inside it and that is how it moves more oil at the same amount of revolutions. The different colored springs and oil pump change the pressure slightly but I cannot remember what the color coding is.
 
hookedup50 said:
I know I swapped the oil pump out of my Teds engine for a high volume GM one, but is that it?
Click to expand...

Apologize in advance if I am repeating already known items . . .

Did a digging on a military pull a little while ago and found a very good write-up by BobbieMartin. IIRC, items to change are the oil pump (as noted), transmission bolts (10mm), maybe pre-cups, and bearings.

Bearing conversation starts here:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...g-a-GEP-Engine&p=244888&viewfull=1#post244888

Recall from some other thread (did not keep it for reference, sorry) that the pistons on NA and turbo are different, so might need to look at Mahle pistons and IIRC they were also used in BobbieMartin's swap. Am sure that others will chime-in to either validate or correct me . . .
 
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