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Mikes Crew Hauler

DieselSlug

DieselSlug

Well-Known Member
Messages
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Location
Fabius, NY
Hello all,

Figured i would start a build thread on my new truck. Been to a few other forums since I've owned my 6.5 and none of them feel as welcoming as TTS.

Since my 6.5 days I've finally graduated (for the last time) and now am an estimator/project coordinator at a demolition company. I have to travel often to view possible new opportunities as well as some time on site of current jobs we hold. After the 6.5L i picked up a 2011 F150 FX4. It was a good truck, except for when it had to go in the shop (Bills were 1K plus) for heated seat failures, EPAS steering clunks and Defroster malfunctions. The extended cab was just too small to haul around Adults comfortably.

Just last week i traded it in on a 2009 F250 Lariat Crew Cab with the 5.4L Triton. The truck is very clean and originally from WV. It has some type of lift kit (~4'') and 37'' Geolander A/T's that are shot! The previous owner had some interesting taste with ricer type brake/accelerator pedals, K&N CAI Intake, decals stating "size matters" (Tore those off just after i pulled into the driveway), steering wheel cover that wore the leather off and not afraid to put a couple holes in the dash for his goodies.

Near future plans are to fix the little things that bother me and install a new set of tires. The 37's fit without rubbing, but they suck a lot of power from the already lacking 5.4L Triton. I'm afraid going down to 33's will make the truck look like a roller skate, so I'm thinking we are going to put 35's on it.

Its not going to win any races for sure, but hopefully i can turn it into a nice cruiser. The pictures don't do it any justice showing just how massive this thing is.

1_zps6ixambj9.jpg


20_zpsuncu8pj8.jpg
 
jrsavoie said:
Looking at your sig, What's a Snorkel Mod?
Click to expand...

If you take the airbox out of your truck and look into the fender there is a plastic "snorkle" like piece that directs air through a small opening into the air filter. If you take the snorkle out then you eliminate the small opening. Does it work? Not sure? But its one of those things that i tried.

Don't do this if your fenders are rotted badly like mine were. I often had road salt/spray in my air box. Once i put my new fenders nothing got into the airbox.
 
Took the truck to my buddies last night for a quick once over and address the tire wobble at 58 and 65 mph.

The truck checks out well, not noticeable issues. The tires on the other hand had stick on wheel weights. Whomever balanced these gets paid too much for their job. Not saying 37's are easy to balance.... The wheel weights also had duct tape over the tops of the weights!? Never seen this technique before? They were awful. Pulled all the weights off and re-balanced, man what a difference!! The most he had to add was 5-oz.

They will get me by for now. The end of this month i plan to pull the trigger on some new 35'' tires.

I need to reprogram my Scan Gauge II for CANSF vehicles to be compatible with this rig. Its currently set-up for a 6.0L Diesel.
 
DieselSlug said:
If you take the airbox out of your truck and look into the fender there is a plastic "snorkle" like piece that directs air through a small opening into the air filter. If you take the snorkle out then you eliminate the small opening. Does it work? Not sure? But its one of those things that i tried.

Don't do this if your fenders are rotted badly like mine were. I often had road salt/spray in my air box. Once i put my new fenders nothing got into the airbox.
Click to expand...
OK I've done that on all the vehicles. Just didn't register
 
I feel for you on the out of balance 37's. On the ride to where I am sitting right now my boys and I were saying " LAaAaAaAaAa". Nice vibrato from 60-70.

I've done the duct tape thing. Some stick on weights come off in first week, so the tape ensures they stay there. After a week the tape can go. As for why too much weight, just how tires can wear out of balance, they can wear away into balance. Just inconsistency of the rubber in the tread, and in a 37 there is plenty of tread to be wrong.
 
Welp, it was fun while it lasted.

Last night i had to go on a 30 minute trip north of the City to pick up a a part for the Wrangler. About half way there i noticed a burning break smell. Thought it was the jalopy in-front of me, but it was hanging with me even as that car went in a different direction. Stopped picked up the part and noticed the wheel was warm and smelled. Made it about 5 miles towards home and it got progressively worse to the point where the rotor was smoking.

Pulled over and called AAA. Looks like I'm putting new front calipers on this weekend. Luckily they are only $70 each plus $45 core.

IMG_1152_zps9qnxnmxp.jpg
 
Haha, for sure. Definitely an un-forseen issue. I'm sure the truck wasn't driven much before me in the last few years, then i went and cranked 700 miles in a week.

The calipers would be covered by the 30-Day warranty, but id have to bring it back to the dealer of purchase over 2 hours away. Sucks, but not the end of the world.

Now i can tell the Fiance's family its because its a Ford!:happy:
 
You got the highest AAA level, right? :rolleyes: I have used mine for the Dodge and taken ole Patch on vacation when the Dodge is in the shop for a clutch, head work, etc.
 
WarWagon said:
You got the highest AAA level, right? :rolleyes: I have used mine for the Dodge and taken ole Patch on vacation when the Dodge is in the shop for a clutch, head work, etc.
Click to expand...

Honestly not sure lol, AAA does come in handy quite a bit though! I remember the days when i took my ole' rot box to TN and back without issues.

Got the new calipers ordered and will pick them up at lunch.
 
Consider replacing *all* the flex hoses as part of the project. Lower level of effort do do now while you already have to bleed the system. Higher level of effort later when (not if) you have to replace the flex hoses due to rotting from the inside and causing caliper failure; if the rears fail first, it might warp the front rotors and just add to the fun.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Consider replacing *all* the flex hoses as part of the project. Lower level of effort do do now while you already have to bleed the system. Higher level of effort later when (not if) you have to replace the flex hoses due to rotting from the inside and causing caliper failure; if the rears fail first, it might warp the front rotors and just add to the fun.
Click to expand...

I actually did look into this. When i got the tires re-balanced the other day we noticed with full suspension droop the lines are very taught. I tried to see if NAPA sold extended lines for my truck and they don't. I found some braided stainless on Rough Countrys website, but i unfortunately cant wait for them to be shipped.
 
In that case, consider making a regular post-drive check to see whether the disc(s) still have rust on them. If they do, it is warped-rotor-roulet time and replacement will go from preventive maintenance, to avoidance of further damage.
 
JayTheCPA said:
In that case, consider making a regular post-drive check to see whether the disc(s) still have rust on them. If they do, it is warped-rotor-roulet time and replacement will go from preventive maintenance, to avoidance of further damage.
Click to expand...

For sure, I hope i didn't warp the rotor or anything getting it so warm!
 
Got the front calipers swapped out Saturday morning in about 2 hours. No big issues. Truck stops good now with no hanging or binding.

Stopped at my local Delta Sonic (Gas Station/Car Wash) this AM as i have a 15 cents off per gallon card, so i normally pay $1.96/gallon for gasoline. I stopped 1 day last week and the pump repeatedly clicked off no matter how slow i pumped. Went to a different pump this week and did the same thing, but even worse. I've filled it up 2 times before last and don't remember it being such an issue. Stopped short of 3/4 tank after 10 minutes, going to try another station later today.

Seems to me like the overflow is plugged, not letting air out so the fuel backs up the fill tube? The fill tube to me seems so skrawny at maybe 1'' in diameter. Is that how the tank "breathes" when your filling it?
 
The breather tube ties into the fill tube about 4" from the cap, there must be some restriction.
 
Tried a new gas station and it wasn't as bad as previous, but still obviously an issue. Trying to see if i can get this covered locally, as the dealer is over 2 hours away.

Is that the breather? Or just solely an overflow tube? This truck was also built before Ford started the cap-less fuel system.
 
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