Max towable load for a Suburban K1500

[tightgroup]

With my latest thread starter " Operating costs" I might be persuaded to convert the Burban to hauling duties.

However the rated max load is 5000 lbs, and I would need to haul approx. 6000 lbs to 6500 lbs.

So what should I plan on modifying to meet expected tow weight of 6500 lbs ?

 

[ak diesel driver]

depending on how much towing you plan to do it might be fine. I'd try it first and see how it feels. the basic diffs are gear ratio and brakes

 

[bk95td]

tires are a factor also.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

And what kind of trailer. Will it be a low drag but heavy trailer, or one that has alot of wind resistance?

 

[buddy]

It will tow that fine. The Suburbans were beefier to start with as well. You might have bigger drum brakes in the back already. I have pulled a car and trailer that weighed a little more than that with no issues at all with my C1500 pickup. Its not a wind sail like a camper, but I know others that do that. Do you have 3.42 gears or 3.73?

 

[gnel]

My biggest concern would be the brakes. The difference between my 1984 1500 and my 1995 2500 is night and day. The 2500 being much better.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

1500 6.5 BURB will have 13 X 2.5" rear brake shoes VS the 13 X 3.5" rear shoes that the 2500 BURBS and most 2500 8 lug trucks got. ALL factory 6.5 1500 BURBS came with 3.42 gears, 9.5" semi-floater, and softer rear springs. They can tow quite a bit more than they are rated to tow, but you have to be careful with towing loads with a high wind resistance to them.

 

[bk95td]

1500 6.5 BURB will have 13 X 2.5" rear brake shoes VS the 13 X 3.5" rear shoes that the 2500 BURBS and most 2500 8 lug trucks got. ALL factory 6.5 1500 BURBS came with 3.42 gears, 9.5" semi-floater, and softer rear springs. They can tow quite a bit more than they are rated to tow, but you have to be careful with towing loads with a high wind resistance to them.

None of my 2500 trucks have the 3.5 brakes[it was a option]. Both 3500s do.
Working trailer brakes is a concern also.[I've towed much more than that with 1/2 ton pickups]

 

[WarWagon]

You should upgrade your tow vehicle to match what you need to tow. Otherwise overloaded you are only hoping to "get away with it" both by Law and life. Aka not killing yourself or innocent bystanders.

I will point out that the Diesel engine is cutting 1000 Lbs off the tow rating. Even then you are going over by 500 LBS of what the half ton is rated to tow regardless of engine. (The diesel engine weighs more and weight contributes to reduced tow rating.) You need the rating of the K2500 to do the job and have room to tow the "extra" towing cargo they throw at you for whatever reason.

http://www.campinglife.com/towrating/index.cfm
1995 Chevrolet/GMC Suburban C1500 (2WD) 6.5 V-8 TurboDiesel 5500
Requires 3.42:1 axle ratio.
Requires Z82 Trailering Special Package.
Requires transmission-oil cooler.
Requires weight-distributing hitch.
A higher tow rating is listed for pickups that tow fifth-wheel trailers.

Recall you need to check everything including the rating on the hitch ball itself to make sure it can handle what you need to tow. 5000 Lbs is a common rating on the balls, but you can get then up to 12,000 LBS.

Overloaded you start to break things like rear springs, studs that hold the wheels on, burn up the sh1tty 1/2 ton brakes...

 

[WarWagon]

On Operating costs - that thread is not related to towing costs. So at risk of a double post:

Towing with the 6.5 has your MPG go down the harder you load the IDI engine. Hills and/or trailer weight change your MPG. Same hill with a heaver trailer means lower MPG. If you are lucky you will get 12 MPG with a cargo trailer. Add some hills and you get 7.5 MPG towing. This is the difference between paying to work and making some money. There are other engines out there that get better MPG towing namely the Duramax at 8.5 MPG or the Cummings. Without hard hills you can get decent MPG with the 6.5 as long as your speed is 65 MPH or less around the 6.5's sweet spot of 2200 RPM.

If you earn 1.10 a loaded mile and have to dead head back, cut your income to 55 cents a mile round trip. Then figure your worse case MPG of 7.5 MPG loaded/ 15 MPG unloaded and the current cost of Diesel. Figure any fuel surcharges in.

Delivering RV's with my 1993 pickup gets me 12 MPG average with the unloaded return trip. Round trip with trailer gets 11 MPG flat and 7.5 MPG up a 10% grade to Payson - 4.10 rear end and foot to the floor to get close to the speed limit.

Your best upgrade is an A-team turbo with 4" exhaust that will pay for itself in fuel savings in around 2 months figuring 550 miles a day.

Your cooling system had better be spotless and upgraded with a better fan a new fan clutch - you will overheat and ruin the engine otherwise. Ask me how I know.

 

[tightgroup]

Upon further investigation, I have a GU6 & G80 RPO code which indicates a 3.42 & Positraction limited slip rear .. The trailer hitch is rated at 5000 lbs, but it seems to have a class 4 receiver which should be good for 10,000 lbs and 12,000 with load levelers..

How efficient is the stock tranny oil cooler ? Any good aftermarket upgrades.

For mods, this is what I am planning ;

Heath cooling upgrade for 97, a heath ECU T code I believe, 8 new injectors, 4" exhaust with cross over and a full set of gauges ..

Why do you recommend the ATT turbo ?

 

[ak diesel driver]

if it seems like your geared to high you could try some smaller tires

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Keep in mind that the 150 6.5 BURB is by NO means a half ton except for the 1500 on the door. The drivetrain in them was built every bit as stout as many of the 2500 trucks out there. The rear springs are a bit softer in them though, and the framnes are not as heavy as the 2500 BURBS. The engine and trans will be the same as the 2500's as well as the front torsion bars and components. The frames were slightly thinner and the rear springs were softer to get that half ton ride to them, but other than that they are a 3/4 ton. I would not want one for daily towing duties though as the 3.42 gears will have some rather negative effects on the 6.5's durability as overheating will be a constant concern in summertime heat with the higher engine loads from teh tall gears. I have 3.42 gears in mine, but then again a stock LB7 is as strong or stronger than 99% of teh 6.5's out there. And I KNOW when I put 10K behind her(but she still manages fine).