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Lower ball joint

R

Rodd

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Location
Antelope, CA
I replaced the lower ball joint on my burb. I can't quite get it pressed in with my 2 different presses (bottle jack and C clamp). I have about 1/4 inch left to go. I kind of remember having the same issue about 6 years ago on my last burb when I did it to the passenger side. On my previous burb I recall bolting it up and driving it to get it to seat in completely. I am not sure if I am remembering correctly. Can anyone confirm if this will work?
 
I did whack it numerous times while under pressure with a 4 pound sledge but I can't get enough force to get it to move.
 
Go down to your local auto parts store, and rent a ball joint press. Otherwise don't drive it until you can get somebody to get it pressed in the rest of the way. Otherwise you're taking a HUGE risk of major suspension failure.
 
Pressing lower ball joint into sheet metal or forged control arms really need the proper J 41805 tool and the all joints should be placed int freezer for a few hours to make the job easier. This "J" is about 3 times the size of the OTC unit and the same as used by the shop at dealerships & is specific to the C/K series.
Ball joints for the sheet metal lower control arm is smaller than the ball joint for the lower forged control arm.
DSCI0010.JPG
 
When I worked in a dealership and had access to the kent more tool, i tried it. A budy loaned me his otc.

When I was on the Mac tool truck I sold both kent moore and otc. Most dealership guys would get the otc even though they could get 75% reimbursment for the kent moore and have it cheaper.

Kentmoore has the contract with GM, it doesnt mean their tools are better. Infact, most of their hand tools were worse than standard tool mfr like Mac, Snapon, Channel Lock, Irwin Hansen, etc.

If you prefer kent moore:
http://www.automotivespecialtytools.com/tag/kent-moore-tools/
 
Will L. said:
When I worked in a dealership and had access to the kent more tool, i tried it. A budy loaned me his otc.

When I was on the Mac tool truck I sold both kent moore and otc. Most dealership guys would get the otc even though they could get 75% reimbursment for the kent moore and have it cheaper.

Kentmoore has the contract with GM, it doesnt mean their tools are better. Infact, most of their hand tools were worse than standard tool mfr like Mac, Snapon, Channel Lock, Irwin Hansen, etc.

If you prefer kent moore:
http://www.automotivespecialtytools.com/tag/kent-moore-tools/
Click to expand...
I've owned both & the OTC broke before the 2nd lower ball joint was seated in a forged lower control maybe the c-clamp was a weak forging....I just did all my ball joints with the "J" tool and it was very easy to remove and install the joints I suspect as always "SIZE MATTER'S."
 
I have the one that is sold at tyler tool. Cant get the fittings to fit well enough to get good enough leverage. The one fellow traveler posted has different fittings. That's probably what I need.
 
Getting that lower ball joint to seat in completely was a PITA. My impact wrench maxes out at 500 lbs and after I got the fittings aligned and torqued down the clamp with the impact as far as it would go the ball joint still didn't budge. So I broke out the 2' breaker bar and turned it till I couldn't turn it anymore, hit the control arms a couple times and still no movement. Finally I took the 3 foot extension off my jack and used it with the breaker bar and turned it till it wouldn't move another inch and still nothing. I was worried that either the c clamp would strip or it would break. still wouldn't budge. Hit the control arm 3 times and it seated in. I even sprayed PB on it in the morning before I left for work and again 3 minutes before I started. My passenger side on my previous burb was a piece of cake. I don't know what the deal was with this on. Glad I got it done. Now I have to do the passenger side. I think I'll wait till one of them fails before I do it again.
 
It's an Arizona truck saw very little snow where the truck is from in Cornville Az, but, with moisture and the complete dryout of said moistures we do have a rust issue. This complete drying leaves component locked in as bad vehicles in the snow belt states. What do you suggest for removal, my thoughts were a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid (a few machine sites recommend it) should do the trick.?
 
C20ELEPHANT said:
It's an Arizona truck saw very little snow where the truck is from in Cornville Az, but, with moisture and the complete dryout of said moistures we do have a rust issue. This complete drying leaves component locked in as bad vehicles in the snow belt states. What do you suggest for removal, my thoughts were a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid (a few machine sites recommend it) should do the trick.?
Click to expand...

Soak it with your potion, hit with the heat wrench, then the pickle fork and a BFH.
 
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